If you end up buying a Hansgrohe instead, be sure that the swivel is 360 degrees. The 150 degree swivel does not allow the handle on the front. They have both styles of swivel, under differing lines of Hansgrohe. I bought one on ebay thinking that it would be workable but it is not. I currently have an off brand faucet that I have had the handle in the front for almost 2 years and I love that feature. My off brand looks sort of like the Hansgrohe that Breezy has. But the thing is spraying weird so I thought I'd switch to a real Hansgrohe. Well I got fooled with the style of swivel I guess. Hansgrohe support told me that the handle can't be mounted in the front. I didn't ask why as I took the faucet apart while waiting for tech response and could see why.

So now that I have taken my new faucet apart, and see why it wont swivel, I am thinking of modifying it :) Don't tell DH of my plans. I might run the idea past my plumber first, then if he can't take it further apart to modify, I am going to get my tools out an make the fix!!! But thats just me. I never recommend others to follow in my wayward foot steps.

The Vigo VG02001 info says 360-degree swivel spout. Does this mean a front handle mount should work? If so I wonder why 2 responsers said it wouldn't.

Good luck enduring with your modifications. I hope you can make it work.

I don't really know the answer. I would assume that you would just mount it with the handle in the front and then swivel into position. I see where they say it is 360. Could it be that it is the flexible top that is 360? The picture would lead you to believe it is the post area. I would be interested in what others have to say. Do you have a plumber? That would be a great resource too.

Not the best diagram. Most give options for faucets that can be mounted more than one way.

Have you tried calling the company? If not, I would do that Mon. and only take the word of the manufacturer about what to do.

Having said that, the faucet swivels 360 according to the diagram so may be possible to mount the handle in front. That means you will pull the handle toward you to turn the water on, then swivel from left to right for hot to cold.

Meanwhile, to cover a worst-case-basis side mount, measure the length of the wand/handle plus the round part below it from the top of the wand to the bottom of the round part below.

That's the maximum possible clearance to operate the faucet with the valve mounted on the side but since the hot/cold action is a 90-degree arc (not 180) figure the hot/cold action as halfway back towards the 'splash and halfway forwards toward the sink.

But, a lot depends on the sink specs, too. In general, the important measurement is from the center of the faucet stem back to the surface of the 'splash for this.

The info linked may help you rough out the possible worst-case placement in your mind. Key numbers are from the center point in the faucet stem (wherever it will be placed) to the wall. If there's no tile or splash material, estimate how thick that will be more or less and count it in.

May be easiest to get someone to hold the faucet up for you in "pretend" space or do a paper counter template with the sink drawn on top and a hole for the faucet placed there too.

I'd have all the measurements handy if you call the company.

Here is a link that might be useful: Making Sense of Kitchen Faucets

That link is really great. I wish I had seen that article before ordering. I will take measurements and call the company on Monday. I had sent them an email but did not get a response.

One Q&A I read says you need 3 inches from faucet to backspash. My cabinets are 31 1/2 X 24 inches. The sink is 30 X 18 on the exterior and 28 X 16 on the interior. Does that sound like everything should fit if I have to mount the faucet with the handle on back? There would be an inch and 1/2 overhang on the counter making front to back of granite 25 1/2 inches to work with.

I hadn't thought about projection before reading the article. It says, "For an ideal installation, the faucet spout should line up with the center of the sink drain so that when the faucet operates, water flows into the drain."
Here's 2 pictures showing the projection:

In these picture the water flow is barley touching the edge of the drain and it looks like the drain is offset towards the back. My sink has a center drain in the middle. I guess I need to pick out a new sink right?

I never knew this part of updating would be so complicated.

It would seem if it the faucet can be swiveled 360, so can the handle... and here is an example of the alignment with the center of the drain

The ideal is for the water stream to go smack down the center of the drain like ctycdm's pic above. But there's some wiggle room.

Sink diagram tells you where the drain falls. Then check the projection (your Vigo is 9-1/2"). With those two measurements you can tell where the faucet needs to sit on the sink deck -- ideally -- so it lines up.

There are no "rules" on faucet placement. If the counter is stone, they don't want the faucet hole drilled too close to the edge. So usually the set back is about 2" or so. About 3" is needed behind the center point of the faucet -- but if you have the faucet in the house you can measure the back projection -- push the wand all the way back and measure from the center to the tip with a ruler.

If the sink is 18" deep and the cabinet is 24" that leaves roughly 6 inches. If it's an undermount sink (and depending on the way the sink is made and depending on the cabinets) sometimes they can cheat it and scooch the sink forward a little to give more space in the back. I find it more comfortable to work at sink pulled as far forward as possible but that takes it off center from above and makes the stone thinner at the front edge which they don't like to do as it's harder to install.

In the top pic (black counter) -- there is no way that faucet can function. No idea what they are thinking using that photo. Second one, you're correct, the faucet doesn't line up very well. Again, not helpful.

But unless there's some quirk in the way the faucet is designed -- which they can tell you -- you may be good to go with the front install. For comparison you might take a look at spec sheets for the Grohe Ladylux faucets which can be front installed. Suspect all this is worst-case stuff but still useful to know.

Love the faucet btw. I have a similar set up.

I had a similar problem. My faucet lever would not recline all the way back for the hot water so my husband just twisted the round thing on the inside to recalibrate where it would put out hot water and it works fine.

You can see how close it is to the bar edge so that is why my husband had to adjust the insides of the faucet so that straight up is now at the hottest setting and all the way forward is cold. Took a little getting used to but solved a major crisis as the faucet was pretty useless until DH came to the rescue and fixed it. I didn't want it to the front as I have that middle divider in the sink and that wouldn't have worked so well, also I just like the way it looks better to the side. I love my faucet BTW. At first I was just ..meh, but I have really grown to love it. Hooray! One thing I like, I never seem to like anything after it's in, ha ha. Or it just doesn't look like I thought it would.

The requirement for 3" from back-splash is so the handle doesn't hit when you swing it back for cold water.

Yes, you can install it with handle forward to avoid this 3" clearance issue.

My sink will be installed as a flush undermount.

Thanks gr8day for the picture and everyone else who has responded. I don't have the sink diagram yet. I haven't been able to find one online. It is from Royal USA, and is the one that the fabricators offered with my granite purchase. I will try to get the measurements from the company tomorrow. It looks to me like I will need to get a new sink though judging from the pictures, since mine has a center drain.