For a professional job, which is all about the PREP, and very little about the spraying, 4-6K would be a good ballpark for an average sized kitchen. When prepared properly, and with a good quality latex enamel paint that is allowed to cure, it is just as durable as any other well painted surface.

Granted we have a smaller kitchen and we're getting new cabinets painted (so less prep work than old), but we're paying $1,500. Can't speak to durability because I don't have them yet but they better be!

I paid $3200 for cabinets and doors to be primed and painted (new wood cabinets). My kitchen is small (11x13) with cabinets only on 2 walls. The finish is good but not as good as a commercial cabinet. But on the other hand I have the paint and have been able to touch up as needed and was even able to add a light rail after the fact with no one knowing the difference.

Make sure you do your research carefully on who paints them. My cabinet maker subcontracted out the doors and they royally screwed up, requiring entire door replacements and caused a good delay to the project. Be very careful with who you hire - ask lots of questions. A screw up can be very costly.

I'm in the SF Bay Area. My little G-shaped kitchen is about 100 sq.ft. Had the old boxes spray painted on site and the new doors and drawer fronts painted in their shop. I think the paint was pre-cat lacquer (smelly stuff). The paint job was approx. $4300, and they threw in new shelves for my old cabs. One year later, the paint looks brand new. There's just me in the house, so factor that into it. Initially I was very worried about scratches and dings, but it's tougher than it looks.

We've had ours for 3 years now, paint job still looks brand new. I can't remember how the cost broke down as it was a major kitchen job.

Thanks everyone. Very helpful!

Location, location, location has great bearing on cost. I am in Illinois and the cost to stain and/or paint (catalyzed) ranges from $1500 to $5000. Lots of difference between Chicago area pricing and downstate. We have a large kitchen and the cost was approximately $1800 from a Mennonite cabinetmaker.

I had the pantry painted to match my new cabinets and so far I wished I shelled out more money for new pantry. The pantry was sanded, followed by two coats of primers, and finally two coats of latex enamel paint. I don't know how it is normally done, but the paint finish is not comparable to the catalyzed varnish from factory. It feels more rough, harder to clean, and doesn't seem as durable.

I repost this periodically when someone asks about painting their cabinets.

Lilymila, if your pantry feels rough, then not enough sanding occurred.
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Here is how I would expect a pro to spray paint kitchen cabinets. A brush painted job would differ slightly in that you wouldn't hang the doors to paint. You'd place them on a work table or easel instead. It's time intensive work, and should take 7-14 days to accomplish completely and cost between 3K-7K depending on kitchen size and amount of detail in cabinets.

Remove doors and drawer fronts.
Remove hinges and hardware.
Clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate)
Rinse and let dry.
Scrape any loose finish.
Fill any damaged spots or hardware holes that won't be reused.
Sand fill smooth.
Scuff sand the rest.
Tack off dust.
Hang in dust free paint booth with wires through hardware points.
Tack off dust again.
Spray with alkyd based primer.
Scuff sand again.
Tack off dust.
Spray with second coat of primer.
Spray with first finish coat of latex enamel.
Spray with second coat of latex.
If glazing is to occur, that is next.
Spray with conversion varnish.
(If being brush painted, this step is typically skipped.)

Add more molding or decorative details to boxes, filling nail holes and sanding smooth.

Repeat prep process with face frames and exposed cabinet sides using plastic to create a spray booth on site. If interiors are to be done, they are done before face frames and sides. Interiors are difficult, and add both time and expense to the job.

Allow everything to fully cure.
Clean hinges and hardware and clear coat if you're keeping the old hardware.
Install new (or old) hinges and hardware.
Re-install doors and drawers and adjust for proper clearances.

If you are receiving a job without this amount of effort, then you are not receiving a quality professional job.

I don't know if rough is the right term to describe it. It just didn't have that almost lacquered feel of my new cabinets. I don't remember what kind of primer they used, but the paint was SW pro classic mixed to match the color of the new cabinets.

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

crl_, did you get my emails?