Maybe that's the installed price? My electrician charged me $100 to install 5 ft of plugmold that I supplied (got from Home Depot for $30). The only reason I paid that was b/c I'd already ruined one cover by trying to tap it on the whole length using a wooden block, the darn thing was so hard to snap into the channels I dented it. Look at the big box stores if you don't care for anything fancy, I'm not sure about 2ft lengths but HD had 5ft and I think 3ft, DH found some at Lowes called SnapStrip that stuck out more but were easier to install (since the cover screws on instead of hammering on, it was just too bulky to fit under my countertop), I think that was 3ft but they may have others.

I think plugmold went up in price because they now have to make it with the child resistant plugs to pass inspection. My 5 ft. strip was outrageously expensive-- over $200 I think. My electrician special ordered it. I never thought of getting it at Home Depot. Probably got ripped off.

The cost of $85 is just for the plug mold not for instalation. I think I will look at Home Depot. My electrican told us the one we wanted to order which was only $30 would not do because it was only 15 amp and some kitchen appliance require more???

Is it "angled Plugmold®" or flat? The angled is quite a bit more expensive. B/c of that, some GWers have created their own angled piece and mounted their Plugmold® on it.

The 5 ft almond colored steel raceway Plugmold made by Wiremold was only $33 or so at HD when I bought the replacement one last fall. It isn't child-resistant (but neither is the rest of my 2007 vintage house - I think that went into NEC effective 2008, but not sure it would apply to plugmolds if they are 55" off the floor under your upper wall cabinets, and over a 2ft counter so kids can't reach? Ask your electrician). I checked, mine is 15A but that is fine for small appliances - again, I would check your KitchenAid mixer and see how much it pulls, if you think you'll be running a large small appliance on the strip then I would have that one put on a separate circuit, even if 15A is OK. Don't want to pop the breaker running the coffeepot, toaster, and microwave all at the same time! I wouldn't plug a microwave into anything less than a 20A circuit, some of them can pull close to 15A all by themselves.

If the end will be fairly well hidden and your electrician is neat, he can always cut down the raceway with a hacksaw, you might even be able to buy a 5ft section and make 2 out of it if you buy extra end caps. The wiring is easy, the hardest part of the Wiremold assembly is tapping the cover on - "striking sharply with hell of hand" - OUCH! was tough to do in tight space even with a wooden block, even for someone who had done it before (electrician). The wiring was a bit of a pain - not much room inside, when I installed the first one I took out the first receptacle to have room to work behind it, the electrician did the same with the replacement (I keep a child plug in to remind myself it's not functional).

www.wiremold.com I don't know if they'll sell direct, but if you contact them they may be able to tell you where to buy (or order, if you want specific color, they have steel, aluminum, nonmetallic, almond, white, silver/stainless, black, etc.).

In our area (Howard County, MD), I was told that yes, the new NEC regulations would apply to all outlets in a kitchen. I was lucky, I had my final electrical inspection in July 2008......the new regulations went into effect September 2008.

We bought our angled Plug Mold from www.tasklighting.com

Thanks for all the good advise. I justed called wiremold and he told me I can't buy directly but they should have it at Home Depot or Lowes . Black would have to be special ordered they only have ivory in stock. He also questioned whether I need a 20A one he said he was sure 15A would be ok. The microwave is built in and will have its own receiptical behind cabinets. So now I'm confused whey electricain say I need 20A. I quess I need to call him. Thanks again for the advise.

Electrician installed my 15A on 20A GFCI protected circuit. I run my 900W (7.5A) coffeepot on it, though I wish I had a better place for it I don't want steam ruining my upper cabinets. I've never had a problem even with coffeepot and 1500W (12.5A) griddle on at the same time, even though that's 20A (peak), but the 1500W griddle might not have been pulling peak, and we try to turn coffeepot off after it's done brewing, I'm sure there have been times it's been left on while DH was making pancakes on the griddle. So 20A would be better if you use it like I do, if you can find it.

What about the child resistant requirement?

Just talk to my electrician about 15A plugmold and he told me its now code that you have to use 20A. I hope I can find it.

Did you find the 20 Amp plugmold? If so where?