I'd go half inch filler piece on each side rather than 1 inch on once side for symmetry reasons. I think it will look fine.

I personally would have him remake it. The gap, even with a counter overhang, would still get dirty and be almost impossible to clean without pulling out the entire stove. The filler isn't a bad idea, if it wouldn't bother you. For me, I know that no one else would notice it, but if it were my own kitchen, I'd notice the asymmetry and be annoyed by it every time I cooked. If you don't think that would bother you, it is definitely the more cost effective and material-saving option. So sorry you are having to deal with making this choice, and hopefully it can be resolved quickly!

Can you put the filler closer to the corner?

Scoot the cabinet to the left to the correct point and then put a filler between that cabinet and the other cabinet on the right. A filler hanging out there in the breeze with only one side attached doesn't fare very well if it's bumped during installation of the range. That also takes the focus away from the mistake at the focal point area and moves it to a place that's less likely to be noticed.

Can you add the filler piece on the other side (not the stove side) of the cabinet?

Is it 1" on just the right side? Can you slide your range over so that you 1/2" on each side & extend the countertop a little bit on each side?

I'm sorry, the pic seems to show another separate cab to the right of the cab in question.. but actually that is a whole cab right to the corner. We first thought we could pull it down but then the corner wouldn't line up with the face of the sink cab.

Gaucho's point about splitting the difference with fill pieces on either side is a good point to consider.

I can't move the stove at all, it has to be perfectly centered in that wall. Feels like it's gonna be fill pieces or gaps.

This post was edited by deedles on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 15:34

Put the filler in however it looks best and forget about it. It will nearly disappear.

Better yet, make two equal fillers look planned, have him make them out of solid fluted wood, like a narrow pilaster. Like they put on the sides of fireplace surrounds:

Here is a link that might be useful: example of pilaster look

Split the difference and put fillers on each side.

If you are worried about grain or stain match, you could either stain them to match the cabinets or color match them to the green color of the range and recess them 1/2" as well, creating a slight reveal around the range.

The slight change in plane will forgive the grain mismatch in stain or, if you paint it, dissociate it from the cabinet face slightly.

Called the cab guy and told him to use fill pieces, splitting the difference to maintain symmetry. He came up with a good idea: he's going to bring the fillers forward about 1/2" so it looks like a deliberate design feature. As I said, my stove is 26+" deep so this should work out well.

Per your observation, LWO, I told him to make sure they were made wide enough (or whichever dimension front to back) to be mounted further back on the cab walls so that we couldn't break them off when we slid the 9000# stove in the hole.

Oy.

Thanks everyone.

It's not really a 1" filler you need...it's 1"-3/16" which is 13/16". Splitting this would be about 6/16 or 3/8" on each side about.

Is it possible to make a 3/8" filler?

Haha, posted right before BBDF and ineffable, but we're all on the same page.

Now I wonder which would look better: recessing them or pulling them forward? Hmmm.

IAATF: DH is measuring right now to get an exact answer on that....

He's saying 7/8" on each side (we have to move the cab on the left down and thankfully we can do that).

So. Anyone reading this have any thoughts on fillers recessed vs. pulled forward per ineffable's suggestion up above?

(I don't really want to add any fluting or whathaveyou into the kitchen at this point, since nothing is fluted or whatever anywhere else.)

I think the "pulled forward" would look better, but I think it would depend on how much further your range sticks out. If it would stick out a bit beyond the pulled forward pieces, I'd go that route.

Isn't your range cool? Wouldn't it look cooler sticking out than tucked in?

I think I'd like the filler recessed. I think it'll look fine either way.

I said recessed because while you need it, you don't want to emphasize it. Recessing it slightly like a small reveal puts the focus on the Chambers, not the filler.

Thank goodness you're on top of this.
You're like me in that this tiny detail would never pass me. For the rest of my life I'd be saying, "Yeah, but..."
Even though you'd be the one and only to see it.

What you're showing, so far, is really, really nice.

How about the filler at the far right, against the wall?

See if your cabinet guy can dry fit some filler to see how it looks in the different configurations that you are considering..

BTW - love the sink! :)

Can't wait to see how the whole thing turns out.

jelly: The range sticks out 26 1/2", so 1" past the counter top. Fill pulled out 1/2" would be fine, I think.

fori and ineffable and diy: I'll have him put it on both ways and see how each feels.

ctycdm: that would be the easiest but it won't work because the cab in question goes all the way to the corner and it would screw up the cabs on the other wall. Seems more often than not 1/2" here or there shifts the whole shebang, right?

CEF: Yup. Stuff like that... totally inconsequential visual stuff makes me nuts. For instance, my DH cannot believe how I can pick up on something that isn't. quite. level. and he won't believe me til he puts a level on it.

Well, I told him to get these fill pieces in by Thursday as we want to move the stove this weekend... so... onward and upward!

Good for you for taking a mistake and making it into a design feature. We did the same with two structure problems in our bathroom. People think we did them on purpose for looks. I'm sure you will come up with a good design.

How about a 3/8" bead molding attached to the faceframe on both sides of the opening? that will close up the gap by 7/8"
A bead will look smarter than a thin piece of filler strip.
Casey

Hate to be the party pooper, but if your tile is centered on the wall, and the range is supposed to be centered under the tile, than 1" or so offset may be noticeable. That's why I recommended putting it to the right. Looking at the layout, I don't see that as an issue to pull the cabinet 1" and add the filler to that side.

How do either of these choice--recessed or pulled forward, effect the counters? Perhaps that will help answer the question.

sombruel: not sure what you mean by bead molding? How would I find an example of that?

rnmomof2 (if your name means registered nurse mom of two, me too!) I don't think either approach will be a problem with the counter. Recessed certainly wouldn't be and if it ends up pulled forward, it would only be 1/2" or so.

LWO: are you saying to pull the cabinet to the right of the stove 1" towards the stove? If so, we can't do that because that cabinet goes all the way to the wall and the corner relief is built into it. If we pulled it over, the 3" corner relief would be out of plane to the face of the sink wall cabs around the corner. This guy builds everything he can as one unit, rather than separate base cabs, e.g. my sink base and pull-out trash base is one cabinet, etc. Unless I'm not understanding what you are trying to get across to me?

The range will be absolutely centered under the tile, we're going to have to move the left cab down to create the same gap as the right and then fill them equally. That's really all we can do. Thank goodness we have a little wiggle room with the left cab!

I like Casey's idea for beaded molding for a more finished and intentional look.

I don't build cabinets (or anything), so I may be completely silly here, but--why can't he add the filler to the interior of the drawer cabinet? by removing the left side, adding a 1" splice into the cross pieces, or new longer cross pieces (are all the cabinet components made of your oak?), and re-attaching the side?

If the cross pieces were going to be weight-bearing, like shelves, of course that wouldn't work. But for drawers, they serve more as stabilization don't they? The splice on the front pieces would be hidden by the drawer fronts.

Perhaps he has already built the drawers, so he is stuck with the mistake. (if he bought the drawers from another supplier then he should eat the cost of fixing them) But, could it be done?

snookums: I looked at beaded molding and rather than add another detail element what I told him was to use the same ogee bit on the fill pieces as he's using on the doors and drawers. That should tie it in nicely and keep the detail consistent. He's making them as I type so it's a done deal. Fingers crossed it looks good.

raee: it could be done but see above :)

Deedles, that is exactly what I was going to recommend to. Good solution....you'll never notice it!
Kompy

Kompy, if you call it good, it'll be good! Thanks!

Right, however it's done will have to keep the range centered and that may mean different width fillers if you can't move things.

The beaded does pick up the lines of the hood and range. Don't know your cabinets. Please post a closeup when solved!

Hi palimpsest, we are able to move the cab on the left, thankfully.
and Snookums, I will definitely post a pic. Big girl is moving to her new home this weekend and I told DH if she's operational by Sunday, I'll make him some chicken enchiladas and a pie. That usually works, lol.