Perhaps install hangers for them on the inside of the door. (Careful with the length of screws you use.)

Actually, I see there still wouldn't be room when the door is closed...can you just remove the shelf?

If the shelf cannot be removed, you might consider having some large (2" diameter, for example) holes bored into the rear portion of that shelf - then you could tuck the handles up into them.

Like homebound said, I'd also suggest cutting a hole near the back of the shelf to stick the handles up through. You could cut individual holes for individual items, or a longer rectangular hole that multiple items could fit through.

For round holes, use a hole cutter bit with a drill, and either smooth and paint the edge, or you could buy glue on edge trim if you want a more finished look (may still have to paint it but it won't be cross grain or MDF looking that way).

Cathy

I think an opening at the back of the shelf is about all we can do at this point.

That might work. Not ideal, but it is a solution.

You could consider cutting a front-to-back slot in the shelf so that your mop and broom handles could slide in from the front. You'd probably have to add shelf supports or brackets if you cut too far into the shelf, but I can see those working either from the top (helping you divide that shelf above into separated sections, or supports from below that are less obtrusive in the larger space.

Smiling - yes, that is another option. I think I'd prefer the hole to be in the back, though, so that the shelf above it would be more usable and the handle will stay in place better.

Honestly, if it matched my kitchen, I'd prefer my old broom closet back that Closet World did. That one was bigger by 6 inches wide so my mop buckets fit and was tall enough for my brooms. This closet is somewhat prettier but just not as functional.

Take home lesson - demand every measurement for every cabinet from the KD and check every measurement before agreeing to anything. No verified designs, no contract. Don't be bullied.

I had this same problem in my kitchen when the developers put in my Woodmode kitchen. I just squash my broom in but I like the solutions and i will have to see if i can do this so many hears after the fact.

Maybe, just maybe the Wood-Mode factory workers are munchkins the size of Santa's elves who have shorter brooms and mops.
It's a theory. . .

With St. Patrick's Day on its way, it sounds that they are more leprechauns than munchkins! I'm glad you figured out a solution.

Can the bottom of the cabinet be dropped behind the front -- a step down instead of an opening on the top, making use of that toe kick space to solve your problem?

OK, this may sound silly, but if, like me, you don't actually use the top few inches of your broom/mop handles, why not just cut them off? If you have those garden loppers that are used to prune 1" branches, you could just lop off the tops to exactly the height that will stand in your present cabinet. (Or cut with a little handsaw or hacksaw.) If needed you could slip one of those rubber chairs-leg tips over the cut end, or a slit tennis ball to protect the walls of the cabinet during storage.

smiling - Yeah, actually, I do use the tops of my broom and mop handles when pushing and pulling. I like the finished ends. Thanks for the idea, though.

lascatx - - That's something we haven't considered! I'll discuss that with the powers that be and see if that is an option!

I like the idea of dropping down into the toespace area.

Get a large stainless steel foodservice pan (used in buffets, etc.) which is about 3 inches deep and has a collar to cover the edges of the rough hole. Cut a hole into the floor of the closet the size and shape of the perimeter of the lower part of the foodservice pan. (Mount this puppy into the floor of the closet front to back or side to side whatever direction you want the broom to go.) The inevitable fluff, sand, dust won't descend into the toespace, it will accumulate inside the pan and you can either vacuum it out or just lift the pan out to empty it. I just bought a long, thin pan that is about 20 inches long for $30+ here in St. Paul.

We are still thinking about solutions here. Contractor does not like the idea of cutting into the cabinet floor. Says that the cabinet floor is part of the strength of the cabinet.

Nevertheless, his man did cut into the floor of the cabinets other places in the kitchen with hole saws to run wires and such.

Any opinions on the importance of an intact floor for frameless cabinetry? Is the Wood-Mode or Brookhaven cabinet at risk if the floor is cut?

I did wonder about that and I can't see the back of mine to remember how they are made on the back. I don't think box sits on top of the toekick, but I do think it should be possible to either keep a frame around the box -- just having a larger hole or slit and/or add additional bracing around the perimeter and put a floor across the bottom of the opening.

Bumping this up to see if OP came up with a solution that worked.