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As Brian Baeumler says, "Anything is possible if you have the budget".

Check behind the exisiting range and see if there are any receptacles. If so take a picture.

If in fact there is a recptacle, go to your main fuse panel and check what size of wire (gauge), the amount of wires, whether it be 3 or 4 wire, as well at the breaker size in amperage that is used to supply power to the existing range.

Three things have to match up:

Breaker size, wire gauge size, amount of wires, (3-4) and receptacle type.

After you've done this, check the manual on your new range and see what electrical requirements are needed. It would probably be 120/240V, 40 -50 amp, 4 wire.

This post was edited by Renosarefun on Wed, Feb 26, 14 at 13:07

I read your question thinking anything is possible for a cost.
I just had installed a third heating zone and two air handlers which are 240 volts. We ran the lines without tearing any sheet rock. The distance from the 240 volt appliance was only 15 feet to the electric panel.

Yes the electric oven will need a 220/240 volt outlet matching up to a 220/240 breaker . The appliance, the outlet , the outlet lines and breaker must all match.
Call three local electricians to give you a telephone estimate.
Know how many feet it is from your appliance to the electric panel.give them a description of your work space .
Also ask if the billable hours start when they leave their shop and return .
Some electricians charge not by the hours at your home but add in both travel times. My local electricians charge sixty to seventy dollars an hour. A two man team costs me 130 dollars just in travel time.
I understand their trucks are heavy so bigger fuel charges .
My recent heating installation had five hundred dollars for extra fees. I balked. Considering travel time and actual job site work the billable hours were four but I was charged 7 .5 hours.

I ordered last week a 48 inch gas range to replace failed gas ovens . I stayed with gas so not to have extra electrician bills.
You can switch to electric ovens but at a cost and a few headaches.
Never hurts to ask what your options are.

Sarinad:

I will reply to your email in the open forum as it may help others.

You mentioned "I checked my panel and it has 240 volt", nots not the real concern as most ranges are 240V. To be technical it's actually 120/240V, but thats for another discussion.

As I stated in my original post, you have to match the rough in that is required for your new stove. In other words, What amperage and receptacle is needed on the new stove and does it match the old electrical rough in.

If your new stove requires 240V 40 amps 4 wire, then you need to see if you presently have a 4 prong, 8 gauge at least 300 Volt line going to your receptacle.

The thickness of gauge will be written on the wire shielding itself, you'll know how many wires you presently have by counting the prongs on the receptacle or read the wire sheilding markings. Also check the breaker panel and see if you have 2, 30 or 40 or 50 amp breakers.