I didn't have a sink base specifically made for a farm sink.
My carpenter built a frame to fit the cabinets I have.
He did a great job and it worked beautifully.

Prill, do you have a picture of that cabinet finished? Did you order new doors for it? Thanks for showing that picture!

The carpenter was going to cut the doors down, but in the end they fit back on without cutting them. I think he lowered them a bit.

Prill - that does look like a timber frame support. It looks substantial. This is what I have. My sink weighs 175 pounds without water or dishes. It rests on a piece of particleboard supported on three sides with 3/4 inch wood strips inside a Wood-Mode kitchen cabinet frameless box. This does not seem substantial enough to me.

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Overview of the sink:
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Front edges of the sink - -I am concerned that the front of the cabinet does not provide any significant support, too:
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Any opinions? Any advice on how to shore up this sink?

I don't see why you couldn't run some supports down the sides of your cabinets on all 4 courners like mine has. Paint them the same color as your cabinets. They'd be pretty invisible.

I believe mine are drilled in from the other side of the cabinet next to it.

I put in a full 2x4 frame inside of the cabinet so the L&R edges of the sink are resting on wide rails. They ails are screwed and glued t the sides of the cabinet box, and the face frame. The lumber I used was actually antique heart pine with very fine grain, and edges planed perfectly square and flat, so the attachment would be perfect. A common 2x4 has rounded edges, and is very soft, usually knotty wood. I couldn't add a rail across the back without getting in the way of plumbing, disposer, etc, so the sides were the only support.

Casey

Anyone else with a Shaws Sink? Any other pics of reinforcement?

We are thinking about how to build reinforcement for our Shaws farmhouse sink. The 3/4 inch rails on 3 sides worries us. The contractor says he doesn't think any additional support is needed, but I really feel that the 3/4 inch shims on three sides is inadequate for a 39 inch wide farmhouse sink, especially in earthquake country.

We had a Wood-Mode kitchen before. The sink cabinet was the first cabinet to fail in our old kitchen. The floor of the cabinet gave out when the kitchen was about 15 years old - - we only kept a few cleaning supplies in it, so it wasn't an overloading problem, and we never had any major water leaks. We were able to fix that old framed box with a new thick maple floor and that lasted us perfectly well until demo day. So, I am concerned about trusting the cabinet as installed with this much heavier sink.

If anyone has any other pictures of Shaws sink installations, especially shots from the underside of the sink that shows how the sink is supported, that would really be great!

Looks like we have the same sink as Casey.

We supported it two ways: first, it's 36" wide, and we put it in (or more accurately, on top of) a 36" wide sink base, so the edges of the sink rest on the sides of the cabinet.

Second, we also put 4 lengths of 2 x 4 on each corner, to support the sink and the cabinet sides. Here are photos:

Thank you, one and all, for helping us figure out how to reinforce the installation of our Shaws Fireclay Apron Sink. Ours is the 1 and 1/2 bowl sink. It cost us about $23 and about 90 minutes to reinforce the installation done by the Wood-Mode - Brookhaven dealer contractor. I'd have preferred 2 by 4's but dh felt better doing the reinforcement as shown below. The pull-out was never installed by the dealer contractor from Wood-Mode Brookhaven - - they said they couldn't work because of the plumbing. The reinforcement did not interfere with the unattached use of the drawer/pull-out.

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that looks like it will do the job for sure. Isn't it great what you can find out here? Love your floor, what is that?

We plan to track down some edge banding to make it look a little more presentable - - band the edges of the melamine board from the lumber store.

Yes, it really is great to get advice and support here!

The floor is red oak with walnut pegs. I wouldn't advise its use in a kitchen, but we are used to it and it still has decades of wear left in it. It has to be refinished. Everything is backwards and inside out with this dealer/builder. We should have sanded and applied some polyurethane before the cabinets went in.

Toe kicks will go on after the floors are done. We've got a laundry list of things to do before we are ready to tackle the floor project.