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aloha2009

Everything I Wanted to Know About Drawers...

aloha2009
11 years ago

I was hoping to make this thread not only informational for myself, but that other information regarding drawers could be collected together. This is all about function.

Obviously to maximize storage and ease of use, drawers are the way to go.

Some things that are not so obvious are about framed, frameless and inset cabinets.

Another is how do cabinet manufacturers differ (if any) on the available usage.

The usage of 3 drawer vs 4 drawer (or even 5 drawer) stacks.

Determining the width of cabinets for your kitchen.

If you have answers to any of these please proceed.

Framed, frameless and inset cabinets utilize differing INTERIOR usable measurements. Please specify the type of cabinets you have (framed, frameless or inset) your manufacturer (or custom), the size of the cabinet, and what the entire TOP drawer INTERIOR measurements are (width, length, height). I stated top drawer only for comparison purposes since only the height should change from drawer to drawer. Perhaps certain manufactures have better storage in their cabinet lines.

Why did you choose cabinets with 4 drawer (and 5 drawer) stack when you did? How many do you have? How did you deal with the "horizontal lines" differences between your 3 and 4 drawer stacks? Just one aesthetic question isn't too bad.

Though wider cabinets are highly prized here, why did you choose narrower cabinets, instead of the widest available that would fit in your kitchen?

If there is anything else, I haven't though of to ask to have this thread be as complete as possible regarding drawers, please feel to add.

Comments (60)

  • haj56
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    angela12345: You are a goddess! I'm keeping your whole
    post for reference. It's the best guide to kitchen cabinets
    on the net!!! It's early days for me yet, but cabinets are
    a deep and thorny issue and they take time to get
    delivered, so I'm doing my homework.

    Or, I was, until you posted your dissertation for us all.

    Thank you!

    Heidi

  • quiltgirl
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have seen cabinets where the door and drawers are a full one inch thick. Does that mean the face frame has to be one inch thick as well? Also, what would the upcharge run on that? Would that 1/4 inch be really noticeable in looks on an inset shaker style door?

    Rawers

  • Terri
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you for the time and effort you all put into this! Such helpful information!

    The only thing you failed to address...... HOW do you get thru all the sleepless nights and the stress??? :)

  • quiltgirl
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Jakuval, in an inset cabinet, what combination of drawers do you sell the most? How is a cabinet base attached to the unit? Is it just a 6" high board with some moulding added to it so that the 6" piece is also the face frame below the bottom drawer? Does that make sense?

  • jakuvall
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Quiltgirl-drawer combos are specific to the layout, client needs, and preferences.

    Subbase Attachment can vary- ask your maker

    As to questions in other thread-
    Upcharge varies- a lot- by mfg and door style

    For the door style with the cove it is very noticeable,
    At 3/4 the cove is both shorter and shallower.
    some other styles it matters, some less so- shaker is pointless
    The only reason to use a 1" door is style as holly points out.
    1" door can be mounted to a 3/4" frame-often is.

  • xmkx
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Angela12345 - Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! not only is this information helpful to most people, it is especially helpful to me since I am leaning toward ultracraft cabinets. i love that they will upsize for no additional cost.

    Do you know if ultracraft has a microwave cabinet? my dealer said that they don't but I saw something in their brochure that suggests that they do. I'm a little unclear about your microwave placement. Can you be more specific about where you have your microwave?

    Thanks again.

  • SparklingWater
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    NYMK-I have the UC brochure and it lists a MW cabinet. What do you think about the distance between drawers or drawers with a door below on UC? Does it seem greater than face frame cabinets to you? Not as snug? Thanks.

  • susanlynn2012
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Aloha2009, Thank you for this wonderful informative thread that I just read all of it to learn more about cabinets. I really appreciate your hard work in teaching us.

  • angela12345
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi all, Sorry for the delay in responding. I did not click the "post replies emailed to you" button when I first posted and did not realize I had questions. Thank you everyone for the nice comments and thank you to all others who contributed to this thread.

    Peke, I have been following your granite saga, so I know you are way past the pantry shelves decision. I do have shelves in my pantry cabinet. My pantry space is the 24d x 24w x 42h cabinet over my built in oven & MW. My shelves are adjustable and I did order extra shelves for this cabinet so I could space the shelves closer together. Some I have only 5" high between the shelves for one can high storage (I don't like stacking cans & I REALLY don't like wasted space between shelves in the pantry). A couple shelves I have as much as 10-12" between the shelves for cereal boxes etc storage. The other shelves in between vary in height.

    Very bad shelf spacing . . . . . . . Pretty darn good shelf spacing !

    {{gwi:1645387}}
    In the left example, there is lots of wasted space between the shelves. The 2nd shelf from the top could be 2 shelves, and the 3rd shelf from the top could be 3 shelves - 2 for cans plus an even shallower shelf for very short things like tuna cans, jello boxes, tomato paste, etc.

    I keep everything pulled forward to the front of the shelf so nothing gets lost in the back of the 24" deep shelves. That does make the back of these shelves wasted space. My ideal pantry shelves are 10" deep which is deep enough for almost all boxes to be stored on their side with the box top facing out. By storing boxes on their edge, I can put the shelves closer together and have more shelves. 10" deep shelves are also good for having 3 cans of the same item in front of each other. Eventually I would like to cut these shelves down to be less deep and add shelves onto the back of the cabinet door. One day . . .

    I have not paid attention to how wide the hinges open. I am sure I would have noticed if they do not open all the way.

    terri, lots of wine ; )

    sparkling, I am not sure exactly what you are asking about. If I am answering what I think you are asing... the distance between drawers/doors is less with Ultracraft because they are frameless than face frame cabinets would be. I think they are very snug & very precise in the alignment.

    NYMK, I do not know if Ultracraft has a MW cabinet. As to my MW placement: my installer did a great job! I had not picked my appliances yet when my cabinets were ordered. I had them order a 24"x24"x97.5" full height cabinet with the top space being 42" cabinet (for pantry), then I had a large face panel, and 6" high drawer at the bottom. The MW & oven fit in between the pantry cabinet at the top and the drawer at the bottom. If I had picked a taller oven, we had the option to remove the bottom drawer in order to make the oven & MW fit. My installer installed the MW sitting directly above the oven (no filler in between), then used a trim piece he had leftover to trim out around the 3 sides of the MW to fill in the space. What you cannot see is the oven doesn't fill up the whole cavity that the oven control panel covers. He installed a shelf above the oven inside the cabinet that the MW sits on. It only *looks* like it was 'planned' to be this way !! I have attached 3 closeups of this area. Hopefully you can see how he did it from the pictures.

  • IsilB22
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello,
    We are remodeling our kitchen and just received and installed our base cabinets. I made a big mistake by not checking the drawer heights. I wanted to get taller drawers to fit pots and pans but the end product was unsatisfying. I am asking your opinion on how to fix this problem before countertop installed.
    Here are the dimensions of the cabinets:
    Drawer width from side to side: 18"
    Frame: 1 1/2"
    Top drawer: Height to the frame:3 1/4", W: 16 1/4, D: 19 5/8
    Middle and bottom drawers: Height to frame: 8 1/4, and the rest is the same as above.
    The front of the top drawer measures 5 5/8", the others are 10 3/4".
    As you can imagine I cannot fit anything in these drawers and not sure how to fix it without changing the square footage of the current layout.
    Any advice is greatly appreciated. I can provide photos if needed.

  • kksmama
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You have base cabinets that will only hold 18" wide drawers? I think you may want to start a new thread, with pictures, to see what can be done. Include more info about what kind of cabinets and who is doing the install work. Consider setting out cardboard boxes or using tape to mock up drawer bottoms and fitting your things inside to see what dimensions are needed.

  • deedles
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    (There will be one 18" drawer base in my kitchen... why is that odd?) Yes, post a picture with the info requested by kksmama. Can't imagine how you'd end up with only 8" height in a
    3-drawer base? Are the horizontal rails between the drawers 1 1/2"?

  • IsilB22
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I started a new thread called "Base Cabinet Problems - Help Needed" and included photos of the current cabinets.

  • romy718
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    As i'm putting things back into my new kitchen with almost all drawers, I definitely missed the valuable information in this post. I envisioned storing my baking dishes vertically, on there sides. My drawers are not deep enough. I consider myself to be TKO (DH suggests instead of TKO, I should GAL (get a life) but I obviously did not research enough. Not the end of the world. They are still nicely organized in a big drawer. Note: this is not my drawer.

  • sjhockeyfan325
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Romy, if it makes you feel any better, I wanted to do that too, and thought I had measured, and they still don't fit!

  • deedles
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    GAL lol.

  • nycbluedevil
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Romy--can you slant them at all? Maybe then the drawer would be deep enough? Just a thought...

  • annkh_nd
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I also wanted cake pans vertically in a drawer, and measured to make it happen. I specified the usable height of the inside of the bottom drawer of a 3-stack, with the middle drawer getting whatever space was left.

    The cabinet maker built the cab with the two bottom drawers the same height - which was not enough room for the pans the way I wanted. But since it was his mistake, he quickly and gladly rebuilt the cabinet and drawers to my specifications. I am thrilled every time I use that drawer!

  • susanlynn2012
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is such a wonderful post and to timely as I want to do as many drawers as possible and keep going back to framed inset or frameless overlay. I am now going to print this and reread it after I get some more work done. Thank you!

  • illinigirl
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have a question on the frameless construction- what is the "intermediate stretcher" Jackuvall speaks of in his above post? What is it for? What does it look like?

    Thanks!

  • angela12345
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The intermediate stretcher is a narrow piece of wood between two of the drawers, approx 1x4. I assume it's there to add structural strength to the cabinet. You cannot see it when the drawers are closed. In my drawer stacks that are 6-12-12, the intermediate stretcher is the reason why the useable interior height in the bottom two drawers are not the same (one is 10.5, the other is 9.5). The below link shows a picture of what it looks like labelled #9.

    Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.westernproducts.com/cabinets/brochures/quest.pdf

  • illinigirl
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    thank you Angela!

  • brightm
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Dragging up an old post. It's awesome!

    I am thinking about shallower base cabinets on my island since I don't have the width for 24"+12 or 15" overhang. In evaluating my options, I'm wondering what the depth (front to back, not top to bottom) of a standard drawer (if there is such a thing) on a frameless cabinet. I'm currently looking at Innermost (Design-Craft).

    I'm wondering what the depth of drawers are relative to the depth of the cabinet. My current late 1970's/early 1980's cabinets have 18" deep interiors on the drawers. I've survived with those. Is that what I'd expect on current 24's? Or would they be deeper? I'm thinking of having cabinets on the island that are 15 or 18" deep and wondering what the depth of drawers would be like for cabinets that deep. Maybe it wouldn't be worth having drawers in those shallow cabinets.

  • feisty68
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    IKEA Akurum drawers are have Blum tandembox hardware. The standard configuration is for 3 drawers - a shallow top one and two deep lower ones (with different sized fronts). Wider base cabinets have two small shallow drawers on top. The glides are full extension with optional soft close. There are no false fronts on the drawers - the drawer fronts attach directly to the side/bottom drawer pieces. The deep drawers are partially open on the sides - organizers would be needed inside to prevent loose, small items from falling out of the sides. Many cool interior organizers of convenient dimensions are available at IKEA. All drawer dimensions are posted at the link below.

    The drawers are a dream to put together and operate! I'm very pleased that I got all drawer base cabinets except corner, undersink, and a 12" pullout.

    Use the IKEA online kitchen planner if you are working on layout and want to get a quote and 3d rendering of your ideas. It's fast and convenient. The ikeafans forum is great for hand-holding with the details.

    Akurum will be discontinued soon, by the way.

    Here is a link that might be useful: IKEA Akurum cabinet and drawer measurements

  • brightm
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm trying to figure front to back depth, not top to bottom. Is there another word than depth I should use?

    I saw that the organizers you can get from Innermost are 19 5/8" deep, so I'm guessing the drawers are 20-ish". Probably. I'll stop today and measure.

  • angela12345
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Cal_quil, I have edited my post above to include that information. My bases are all 24" deep bases. The interior of the cabinet box is 23.25" deep (because of back wall panel). The drawer boxes are all 21" from front to back (plus the drawer face on the front) with 19.75" useable interior. I also use depth to refer to the front-to-back dimension, top-to-bottom is height to me.

  • Texas_Gem
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Framed full overlay.

    Completely custom, built by a local shop.

    My top drawers are purposefully shallow, interior useable space is 2.5" high 21" deep and 23.25" wide, 17.5" wide and 28" wide, respectively.

    I have three 3 drawer bases (two 23.25 and the 28) and one four drawer base (the 17.5")

    My top drawers are used for silverware (23.25), saran wrap, foil, sandwich bags, etc. (23.25), cooking utensils, spatulas, garlic press, etc (28) and pot holders (17.5)

    I have found it to work perfectly for my kitchen and I wouldn't change a thing.

  • quadesl
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We did this 20 inch deep drawer adjacent to the range for holding cutting boards, platters, and baking sheets.

    We went with a 27 inch deep island so we could use 23 inch deep drawers.

    This post was edited by Quadesl on Fri, May 9, 14 at 13:04

  • romy718
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just posted this info on another thread and thought it should also be here.
    I didn't reread through all the posts so forgive me if this info is redundant.
    I recently replaced the Blum Tandem Plus Blumotion drawer runners on four 36" drawers with heavy duty ones.
    My cabinet manufacturer provided the 568H but there are newer heavier duty full extension soft close drawer runners available from Blum.
    Standard Weight Runners:
    Blum 562 series - 75 lbs dynamic/100 lbs static
    Newer Blum 563 series - 90 lbs dynamic/ 100 lbs static

    Heavy Duty Drawer runners:
    Blum 568H - 110 lbs dynamic/125 lbs static
    Newer Blum 569H - 135 lbs dynamic/150 lbs static
    Attached is a Blum PDF with additional info.

    Here is a link that might be useful: PDF for New Blum Tandem Plus Blumotion Drawer Runners

    This post was edited by romy718 on Fri, May 9, 14 at 17:53

  • romy718
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Reviving this post.

  • lisa_a
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you, romy718, for bumping this thread up for me! Lots of info to digest.

  • Auntie.Karen
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is the best information I have ever seen (and I've seen plenty) on planning your kitchen cabinets so they really work. Thank you!!!

    I have Ultracraft cabinets that are over 20 years old. I will just be getting new doors for some of them because they are still in such good shape. I hate the current slab door style (they were in the house when we bought it) and feel after 20-some years I can finally justify new doors at least. I will be replacing the lower cabinets to make them more efficient, and this post was unbelievably helpful.

  • Errant_gw
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We need one of these on drawer slides! I have older built-in-place cabinets, and trying to figure out new drawer boxes and slides is making my brain hurt :o

  • romy718
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Errant, 5 posts up is a link to the Blum soft close drawer slides/glides. It made my brain hurt too. Are you using standard depth boxes? Any drawers widths over 30", I'd recommend the Heavy Duty slides.
    For standard depth boxes, the Blum 563 are the standard slides & Blum 569 are heavy duty slides.
    I hope that helps.

  • Errant_gw
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks, Romy, I'm glad I'm not the only one. Yes, they are standard depth and nothing over 30". In fact. they are just small drawers, the biggest being 19.25" wide. None of them very tall or holding anything particularly heavy.

    My drawers currently have the old roller tracks with the single nylon roller mounted above the back of the drawer box. I simply wanted to upgrade them to something that is full extension, smooth opening/closing, and doesn't let the drawer sag at the front. While cool, the soft close feature seems a bit silly, as I'm not one to slam doors and drawers.

    So I keep going back and forth on what type of glides to buy. The Blums will cost as much as each new drawer box, but are supposedly the best. CSHardware has a knock-off at a much better price, but it could be total crap. I could get a basic side-mount full-extension, but then I wonder if seeing the guide will bother me, or if doing all the work for a sub-par guide is a waste?

  • daisy08(London UK)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    wow this thread has a wealth of information! I loved the idea of hanging pots and lids in that corner cabinet. so much better than those corousal thing.

    I am deisigning my pantry cupboard with internal drawers and wondering what should be good height of drawer sides and drawer front in proportion to the height of containers stored inside it so I can still see them from front but they dont topple and fall when i close and open the drawer. would more than 50% is supported/covered be good enough or can I get away with covering even lesser percent?

    My kitchen is IKEA metod (new range in UK) and they dont have a glass front drawers which would have helped. Most of my containers will be almost hidden if I use a medium drawer and front and I am worried if I use low drawers they will start to fall.

  • daisy08(London UK)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    after doing some more serach i realized what i am trying to get is something like pullout shelves for pantry cupboard but when i see picture of pullout shelves on google they seem to have very small fronts. To me looks like things will fall out from it.

    Do you have a pullout shelve in pantry and do things stay in place or fall out. I wish i had atleast one at existing kitchen to try it out.

  • lstryer
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Love all the information on this post. Incredibly helpful.

    I am closing on kitchen design with Ultracraft cabinets and am stuck on one point: 12 or 15 inch overhang on peninsula. My designer is discouraging 15 inch due to support, says we will need an additional wall in the back for support.

    Any suggestions or thoughts?

    Angela12345, what is your overhang?

  • Pinebaron
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Excellent thread. I'm the 'know it all arrogant' type of guy (heck being honest) but this thread made me rethink kitchen cabinet sizes for the new home I'm architecting. I love the idea of extending base cabinets' depths from 24" to 27" and walls' from 12" to 18". I was using our existing home cabinets as a guide in our 13x11 kitchen layout within 19x11 kitchen/breakfast area as opposed to designing 24-6x15 kitchen within 30-3x24-7 kitchen/breakfast/wet bar area in the new home I'm designing. This excludes a 6-1x13 walk-in pantry.

    Fortunately no panic yet since I'm still in design stage for a home build commencing this summer; I will reluctantly meet a K&B designer to help fine tune the layout.

  • romy718
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Pinebaron-a wealth of information on this forum for kitchen design. Post your layout when you have one & let the layout gurus help you get design a super functional kitchen. Be sure & read the threads on countertop install (lots of countertop install mishaps) electrical outlet placement, backsplash install & so much more. There are a few threads about "mistakes", "regrets" that you might find useful.
    We also have some great KD's on the forum that contribute advice.

  • mimisideals
    8 years ago

    Finally. I've searched the web for information on cabinet drawer heights and internal depths! Most rta and other cabinet stores online just list their product as: 3 drawer base and do not give dimensions (or if they do it's just the total cabinet size or exterior size of drawers), I want to know how deep those drawers are...why wouldn't everyone want this information? Do they not list it because they know people will not want them when they find out how small they are? ugh.

    I want deep drawers! After seeing some pictures with others that have their dishes (attaching) and pots & pans (like white one with round dowel dividers shown above)....well, those are the best solutions and the best use of space I've seen yet and if I have to go thru this trauma-I am getting them!

    But, trying to find out what the standard interior dimensions of the drawers are online has been excruciating. Thank you all so much!

  • funkycamper
    8 years ago

    Drawer dimensions vary so much and depend on the type of drawer hardware used. Side-mount hardware vs. bottom-mount. I have five 4-drawer stacks. Three have three narrower drawers and one deeper drawer at the bottom. The other two have all drawers the same height. So I could tell you those dimensions but it won't help you much.

    Once you've narrowed down a few companies you are planning on ordering from, I suggest you contact them directly for this information.

    You will want to measure what you intend to store in the drawers to get the proper width and height of drawer you need for your particular items.


  • mimisideals
    8 years ago

    I hear you funkycamper...in the process of researching companies and what they offer, I was hoping to use stock cabinets and trying to figure out what I would need (and get a close estimate on price) when I noticed they didn't specify interior drawer dimensions... it then became a mission to find the answer.

    So...I happen upon this discussion and came to realize that a lot of different factors decide interior dimensions and now I know a little more about what I'm looking for.

    Still...RTA and stock cabinets, which I was looking at, should have given this information since they are standard dimensions (unless you want to special order)...I would think so anyway.

    Plus there was so much other good information in this post! I have a two page list so far of all my measurements and what I have to have (not to mention my Pinterest board on it)...next step, when I'm ready to move forward, will probably be to get a designer/manufacturer on board and let them know what I want and let them figure out how to get it for the best price.

  • sjhockeyfan325
    8 years ago

    They also vary from cabinet maker to cabinet maker. There is no "standard".

  • mimisideals
    8 years ago

    Well, I meant the specific cabinet maker's standard cabinets I was looking at...not in general. I was pricing at their site, and they were transparent about everything else. but they just gave "3 drawer cabinet" no info on drawer size. I went to another site and saw the same thing (which started my journey to here lol).

    They just need to be upfront and clear about everything. I do not mind paying more for something I want or a better quality. On the other hand, if I was looking just to cheaply do something, I wouldn't worry about the size of drawers or whether it was mdf or not-it would just be about the bottom line only. The people who wouldn't mind paying more are the ones they really need to target.

    Since the price can vary so much, from a few thousand to tens of thousands, I would assume shoppers would like to have a better estimate-not just "anywhere from 2k to 200k depending on what you want and room size"... I want an estimate within hundreds or 1k at most.

    I don't look at expensive sports cars, because I know I cannot afford them. I will look at different models in my price range. Then if I see something that is just what I want, I will sacrifice to get it, even if it's a little more than I originally wanted to pay.

    If money was not an obstacle, or I had to have one at whatever cost (even if I needed to get a loan), then I just stroll into any dealer's business.

    Basically, what I'm trying to say is that they will get more business if they are transparent with it all. Give all dimensions, price, and materials in a clear, user-friendly website for their basic lines. Get shoppers to see that they can afford it and get what they want. Then be available to talk with them when they're ready to finalize things. Then the salesmen can point out any problems and offer solutions. They could also use this opportunity to then point out how little extra it would be upgrade this or that.

    I do about 90% of my shopping or preliminary price-checking online. They're loosing business by not bringing in customers thru their website....in my opinion anyway...



  • beachem
    8 years ago

    Just an FYI, Ultracraft does not increase their drawer depths when you increase the base cabinet depths. It stays at 21". Showplace, Crystal, Decora are also 21" D. I've physically measured the depths of these drawers at showrooms and asked the reps.

    Shiloh charges 30% for increase to the depths of the cabinets but does not increase the depths of the drawers so you're just wasting the money if you're trying to increase the storage capacity.

    Most cabinet manufacturers seem to stay at 21" D for the drawers.

  • mimisideals
    8 years ago

    Thanks-good to know! I need the largest drawer (for my large pot/skillets) to be at least 15 1/2" deep inside and my plate drawer to be 12" deep (to accommodate my stack of plates) and all the rest of the drawers are smaller). From front to back and side to side, the standard dimensions of 24" wide x 24" long x 34 1/2" tall are fine.

  • sjhockeyfan325
    8 years ago

    I think beachem is referring to front-to-back depth, rather than top-to-bottom.

  • mimisideals
    8 years ago

    Ok thanks. Yeah, I'm not concerned about how long the drawer is from the front to the back...

  • beachem
    8 years ago

    Yes, I was talking about the front to back. No point to pay extra upcharge to make your cabinets deeper front to back to 27" or 30" when your drawers will still remain at 21". That's up to 8" that's not touching the back of the cabinets.

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