You might think about a baking area with a bit of soapstone or marble, and then something less finicky everywhere else.

it sounds like you never oiled or sealed the soapstone. Typically soapstone is oiled multiple times over several weeks, basically until it no longer adsorbs any oil. This gives it a rich, dark color that hilites the veining and makes it almost impervious to any spotting or staining. Oiling is relatively "old school" but it has been an effective treatment for centuries.

Alternatively, a seal and enhance product will similarly darken the stone and highlight the veining while providing some protection from staining.

Neither treatment will prevent scratching but due to the softness of the stone scratches can be removed by the homeowner. (The reason soapstone was a stone countertop of choice for the wealthy a couple of hundred years ago was that it could be worked with the tools available back in the day.)

I had a similar revelation for similar reasons after having put soapstone in our master bathroom about 18 months ago. I also realized that I really would prefer to work on a lighter colored counter.

My next choice was matte/sueded stainless. Neutral, stylistically flexible, incredibly practical, somewhat decent environmentally, and somewhat reminiscent of zinc and/or Monel and therefore arguably appropriate in my 1926 house. Dh really dislikes this option (he thinks it is modern and unusual to the point of negatively effecting resale or so he argues--I think he just dislikes it and can't figure out why so he makes points he thinks will convince me). Anyway it is out, not because he has convinced me but because it is his house too.

I then suggested we look at either engineered quartz (ie Silestone, Ceasarstone and the like) or quartzite. Dh has always been a big fan of real stone so he's in favor of quartzite. There are some gorgeous ones out there and hopefully I have learned enough on here to be sure I get a real quartzite which should not etch or scratch and then to be sure it is sealed well.

We have not gone slab looking yet so this is far from a final decision, but it's the direction we are currently headed.

Good luck!

I reread your OP and saw you had tried samples other than your baking stone, which was what I originally posted to suggest.

Good luck with your search. I'm sure you'll find the countertop that suits form & function for you ;)

This post was edited by amck on Wed, Jan 14, 15 at 7:59

Have you considered slate? It might seem crazy, but from the research I've done, it is stain resistant and very durable. I like that it also comes from a quarry in the USA. The company I've been considering is Sheldon Slate Products Company. Their main office is in Maine. I ordered some samples and I did testing with oils, acids, etc. and none of the samples stained or changed in appearance when I wiped them off even after leaving overnight. I was also surprised that the slate came in many different colors.

I realize you want stone, but if you like the looks of lighter unoiled soapstone, then maybe you'd like to check out Formica's Soapstone Sequoia laminate. It's a lighter gray with lots of veining similar to unoiled soapstone. We're planning to use this in our upcoming remodel.

Here is a link that might be useful: Here's an example of it installed, pics about 1/3 the way down

This post was edited by laughable on Wed, Jan 14, 15 at 9:41

When we visited a home that had soapstone counters, my DH felt exactly the same way. I had been set on soapstone from the very beginning and had that "now what" reaction. After a visit to the stone yard (that did include looking again at the soapstone,) we agreed on our leathered black pearl granite. I wanted dark; I wanted matte; he wanted granite. We both are happy with the final results.

Have you looked at Caesarstone- Piatra Gray?

I think it has a dusky gray look like soapstone and has a definite green undertone to it. The veining is more cream. I have it with my cream cabinets and also on my cherry island. The walls are "mossy green" with white trim.

I did not get any special finish on it but it does not have that super polished look. it has some sheen but definitely looks muted to me.

It's been wearing well for me so far.

Here is a link that might be useful: [Houzz-Piatra Gray LInk[(https://www.houzz.com/products/contemporary-kitchen-countertops-prvw-vr~3219385)

Have you considered slate? It might seem crazy, but from the research I've done, it is stain resistant and very durable. I like that it also comes from a quarry in the USA. The company I've been considering is Sheldon Slate Products Company. Their main office is in Maine. I ordered some samples and I did testing with oils, acids, etc. and none of the samples stained or changed in appearance when I wiped them off even after leaving overnight. I was also surprised that the slate came in many different colors.

I have slate. I love it and will be using it again in the new house. And while it doesn't stain, it does get watermarks which take a bit of rubbing to get out. And yes, it's been sealed. A few times.

There are also dozens of sources around the world. Not all of it comes from the US.

Like crl, I prefer a lighter counter (background) on which to work. I have dark gray Caesarstone and it's a dream to maintain, has been essentially bulletproof for 3 years, but I would not get another dark countertop again, even though my kitchen is full of natural light.

After a visit to the stone yard (that did include looking again at the soapstone,) we agreed on our leathered black pearl granite

That's what we did in our previous home. I coveted soapstone, but my DH couldn't live the scratching and "patina". We ended up with Nordic Black Antique granite and absolutely loved it. It felt like silk to the touch, and was a breeze to keep clean.

Just get a honed or leathered granite. It doesn't have to be shiny like polished granite. Plus, granite is not at all finicky. I decided against soapstone but got a similar matte look with honed AB granite.

On the other hand, slate sounds like a good idea.

My Julia soapstone had a mixture of oil and wax rubbed in by the installers and I have not had any problems with staining or rings. Not one scratch or chip yet, has been about 2 months. Julia is one of the harder soapstones. Just about as carefree a surface as possible.

Brian:

Move off the rock and start looking at solid surface. It isn't shiny, it doesn't etch or stain, the most sanitary, and is easily refinished.

Virginia Mist? Closely mimics soapstone, but is a granite. Gorgeous and easy to care for. Here's one shot, but Houzz has lots.

Here is a link that might be useful: [Virginia Mist[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/highland-park-kitchen-remodel-transitional-kitchen-chicago-phvw-vp~696732)

crl_, if you're still around, why not just do a real zinc counter? They do develop a patina which some people don't care for but they are gorgeous, imho. And even easy to DIY and quite inexpensive if you go that route.

Brian, maybe stone isn't for you and that's OK. Since you like patina and want something matte, zinc might work for you as well.

I have friends who recently moved from a Victorian built in 1897. A section of the kitchen still has the original zinc counters. The patina is amazing. And it has a nice feel to it, easy to work on.

Diy is not happening for us at this stage of life. I lack skills and time and dh seriously beyond lacks time. My research was that zinc is pretty expensive; I assume because it is unusual. I also really don't think dh would go for it. The only metal he's ever liked is copper and I'm not going for that. So, stone or faux stone it is I think. Thanks!

Zinc is super-cheap. If you can't DIY it, I bet any competent handyman with some soldering skills could do it for you so the labor shouldn't be too terribly much. Most DIY folks work with the .027 or .030 gauge. 10 feet x 44.75" is only $199. Other supplies, mainly the zinc solder, are minimal cost. Depending on your current counter, you could apply it right on top. Or just on a plywood base. If you like it, I wouldn't rule it out.

For some reason, GW is rejecting the link I'm posting. It's a safe link so I don't understand why. I've poked around there a lot, watched the videos, etc., and I've gotten no spam or viruses or anything. I've also poked around the web for reviews and have read positive things about this company's product including photos and instructions for how to do it on various blogs from people who bought their zinc there.

So here's a non-clickable link that you'll have to cut and paste.

http://www.rotometals.com/ZINC-SHEETS-s/29.htm

Again I want to ask, have you tried other varieties of soapstone? Your experience is so different than mine. I am so thankful that I don't have to think about babying the Julia soapstone counters. We put hot pots right on it, lots of oily messes, tomato sauce, lemon juice, red wine. All imprevious. Just clean with a soapy dishcloth and then wipe again with a nonsoapy dishcloth. In the two months I have used the oil/wax mixture on the small part of the counter left of the cooktop because it was getting a little lighter, took two minutes and back to looking new.

Thanks to all for responses. I have many options to consider.

My baking stone is very different from my countertop choice. I have not exhausted oil and wax options. Maybe there is yet a way that it can work. The counter is very hard at 4.5 and mottled and might not have the issues that the baking stone has. I do not know what kind of soapstone the baker's block is. It is a scrap from M. Tex. I will investigate further.

"We put hot pots right on it, lots of oily messes, tomato sauce, lemon juice, red wine. All imprevious. Just clean with a soapy dishcloth and then wipe again with a nonsoapy dishcloth." This is what I want.

Honed granite is a thought. Solid surfacing is a possibility.

Thanks for the feedback!

You cannot put hot pots on natural stone. This is the opinion of the Marble Institute of America, the 70-year-old trade association of the natural stone industry.

I second the Julia suggestion. I am not oiling my counters because I love them in their natural state. I left in a hurry right after Christmas and didn't get a chance to clean the counters ( I am a messy cook) When I got back a week later I was sure I would have permanent marks from the grease and dried pancake batter but blue dawn and a microfiber cloth and they looked like new. An added benefit they don't scratch when plates are dragged across them. They are dark though.

I honestly went through the same struggle with myself for the past 3.5 years. I moved into our "new" (but old) house, and immediately began dreaming of all of the things I needed to save up for. Sandstone countertops were #1 on my list. Then I lived in the space. I had 2 babies. I repeatedly kneaded dough, spilled oil, dribbled red wine, set hot-off-the-stove pots, (etc.) on my 1980's Formica countertop. Nothing ever happened! I didn't have to call the handyman when any of this happened the way I did previously with my granite countertops.

In the end, I decided that I'm not willing to put a large portion of my budget into the countertops that I originally thought I wanted. This will likely not be the popular choice, but I decided on the new-ish Formica 180fx in Bianca Luna. When people in my real life inquire about what I've decided on for countertops, they literally **cringe** when I tell them Formica. I'm not sure why--it's a great product, extremely functional, and it has changed and improved a lot since the circa 1980's Formica.

As such, if I live with it for 5 years and then decide that I love everything about my renovated kitchen besides the Formica, I've only spent $500 on it (rather than more than triple that amount), and I will upgrade further at that point.

So, I'm not suggesting that Formica 180fx is the solution for you, but you may want to take a look at it!

I can hardly think of a worse countertop than sandstone. I spent the better part of a day trying to resuscitate a sandstone kitchen several years ago with mixed results.

Formica/laminate is better than it was before? How much better can it get? My current counter is Formica installed in 1971. Looks almost brand-new.

I don't understand the negative responses it. It's more environmentally-friendly, wears well, and easier on the wallet. I agree with Elizabeth that the small cost to install makes it easier to change out in 5-10 years if you want to change the look of your kitchen.

I would change something Trebuchet said to "it is not recommended that you put hot pots directly on natural stone". Typical CYA. I put hot pots on my granite all the time for the 8 years I lived with that kitchen, as do many other people, recommended or not. I once mentioned to a friend that you're not supposed to, and her response was "I thought that was the point of granite".

HA! funkycamper -- You do have a great point there. In my book, Formica didn't need much of an improvement. That said, the new 180fx line is prettier (subjective, of course), and has a longer repeat and less seams since it's laid in a sheet onto the particle board.

{{gwi:2139194}}

This is an example of the one I chose. My countertops aren't finished yet, or I'd show you mine instead.

They fabricate the countertop specifically for your space and measurements. Also, they offer an undermount sink option, which for me was the final thing that my decision was hinging upon. Once I learned that I could undermount a sink, I signed up. =)

Yes, the undermount sink options with today's laminates are great! That IS an improvement. Your counters will look lovely.

Personally, I don't want the look of stone for my remodel and wish the 180x came with more options. If it came in Boomerang, I'd be all over it. :)

It's too late to start using stone.

Boomerang!! How fun that would be! =)

sjhockeyfan:

Go ahead. Put hot stuff directly on natural stone. You can find as much anecdotal evidence as you wish, however, when it splits, it's not a nice big honkin' crack I can get adhesive into. It looks like a hair and won't even let in thin superglue. It's magic marker and sealer until the day you replace it.