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carriebor

The Window (Design)

Carrie B
9 years ago

This is that portion of the KD's drawing.

{{gwi:2135378}}

I've (pretty much) decided to go with an OTR range, so that's what would be on the left of the photo.

I don't know yet if cabinets to the ceiling will fit my budget, and, if they don't, I'd rather have the cabinets end simple on top - without crown molding (if they do go to ceiling, a simple thin (2-4") crown molding will suffice.)

The cabinet to the left of the sink will not have open shelving, and it will be wider, since I'm going w/ an 18" rather than 24" DW. My ceilings are 8' 8".

I think the cabinet to the right, over the DW looks lost, floating by itself. My initial thought was to put a high, small cabinet over it, but don't know if that makes sense/there will be room if I don't go to the ceiling.

I then suggested a couple of shelves, painted the same white as cabinets (as Jillius suggested in another post) to tie the two sides of the window together. The KD is concerned that the shelves will block the view - I'm thinking the shelves will be high enough to be above eye level (the view of the small garden is below) but within reach.

KD suggested a valance or crown molding going across to tie the cabinets together - but that's not a look I like.

I have seen images where the window frame, painted the same color as the cabinets, seems to tie sides together. Maybe if the window frame is a little thicker & the top of the window lines up with the top of the cabinets.

Any thoughts or ideas? I like a clean, simple look.

This post was edited by carrieb on Sun, Jan 18, 15 at 9:24

Comments (17)

  • palimpsest
    9 years ago

    Sometimes the best way, imo, to tie individual cabinets together is with an old fashioned soffit, if they aren't tied together by all going to the ceiling.

    I know soffits are unpopular, but in a small kitchen, where parts of a run may be an single cabinet--You have two here in your original design--can sort of look like random, orphan cabinets and not very "integrated" to the whole.

    I am assuming you meant OTR microwave, so I drew that in, too.

  • cluelessincolorado
    9 years ago

    For some reason, this kitchen brought yours to mind. https://www.houzz.com/photos/vauxhall-london-contemporary-kitchen-london-phvw-vp~14898917-London-contemporary-kitchen-other-metro

    palimpsest - that rendering makes so much sense to my brain!

    Here is a link that might be useful: [Vauxhall traditional from Houzz[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/vauxhall-london-contemporary-kitchen-london-phvw-vp~14898917)

  • practigal
    9 years ago

    Adding either a soffit or big crown molding should cost more than just carrying the cabinets to the ceiling. I would really push for cabinets to the ceiling. If the cabinets are rta the price difference is about $20 per cabinet. Custom would be more but if you are being told that it is that much more you need to work with someone else. Why insist on to the ceiling? More storage, less dusting, less to install so less labor cost and small mdf molding at the ceiling should be neither costly nor particularly labor time consuming...in traditional kitchens there is usually a piece of trim wood between the two cabinets- it should be painted the same color as the cabinets. So the window is the framed on three sides.

  • palimpsest
    9 years ago

    It depends on the cabinet line and the height as to whether the cost of multiple cabinets to ceiling height or a soffit would be cheaper.

    A soffit is an empty box made of 2x4 and a sheet or two of drywall that can be made to any size and to compensate easily for uneven ceilings. Its a pretty cheap option.

  • deedles
    9 years ago

    My 2 cents would be to find out if the cabinets you want are affordable to the ceiling or not, so you don't waste time thinking about 'maybe'. Speaking as one that did that exact thing a LOT.

    Do you know which cabs you are going with?

  • Carrie B
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Palimsest - OTR micro is exactly what I meant! I think that putting in a soffit is a viable idea, and would serve the purpose well - and, I'm assuming, much more affordable than cabinets going all the way up.

    Clueless - thanks for posting that link. That does look kind of like my kitchen plan.

    Practigal - it never would have occurred to me that a soffit or crown molding would cost more than cabinets. Thank you, especially for assuring me that the price difference should not be large for just doing cabinets to the ceiling (and for telling me what to do if there is a big price difference!) I don't really like the look of trim over the window between the cabinets - but a cabinet up high I think I would like better, and would give me storage (and, yeah, cost more.)

    Palimpsest - OK, maybe good question for the KD or a contractor...

    Deedles - Good thinking. I don't know what cabinets I'm going with. I'll get a price for the KD's line once she has complete drawings, and I'll get a couple other estimates. I'm probably going with stock (perhaps semi-custom, depending on price.)

  • Jillius
    9 years ago

    This probably doesn't make as much sense for you since your lowest shelves are your most important, but you could always have the shorter cabs installed at the ceiling and put a floating shelf underneath:

    {{gwi:2135379}}

  • Carrie B
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Jillius - I'd noticed that image in my searches - I tend not to like valances, but I like the organic nature of that one. The shelves look nice, but probably not the most practical for me. BUT... my KD already got back to me with a revised layout based on our conversation - and I am thrilled! 18" DW, OTR micro, and TWO OPEN SHELVES at the top of the window! If I can do cabinets to the ceiling, the luxury of those open shelves will feel sooo worth it! I am so grateful to you for suggesting those shelves!

    {{gwi:2135380}}

  • Carrie B
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Do those shelves look too deep? They are the depth of the uppers, but I'm wondering if they should be maybe 6"-8" inches deep rather than 12" (or whatever the uppers are.)

  • deedles
    9 years ago

    I'd probably keep them closer to 6 or 8" deep. Just a thought, if you were to do that, consider a crank open window instead of a double hung to minimize the horizontal line thing. Or make the bottom shelf even with the window sash.

  • Carrie B
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks, deedles. Both good thoughts!

  • Terri_PacNW
    9 years ago

    In my old kitchen I played with the idea of glass shelves across the window.
    Never did it, had I stayed, I probably would have though.

  • Carrie B
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Terri_pacnw - I thought of glass shelves, but I think I'm going to go with white - painted to match the cabinets.

    I think that white will help tie that wall together, plus, way easier to clean (not to mention flying dust & cat hair that settles on top of the shelves not being as visible!)

  • Jillius
    9 years ago

    I was playing around with just the visual appeal of this. You actually technically have some symmetry on that wall. Or something close it to it. A pair of slim cabinets on the outside, then two 30" wide things (the oven and the sink cabinet) inside of those, and then in the center, one wide cabinet.

    The interest of the window/sink and the stove/hood sort of balance each other out. They are in mirrored positions on the wall and the same width.

    So I looked at how to play that up.

    {{gwi:2135381}}

    1) I made the cabinet above the OTR microwave a single, horizontal door that flips up. This has the benefit of being less visually fussy than two little doors.

    At the same time, I lined up your two open shelves with the bottom of the uppers and with the horizontal line between the microwave and the cabinet door above it. So essentially, you are creating this symmetrical set of lines with the uppers:

    l l -- l l l -- l l

    (I agree that the open shelves should only be like 6-8" deep so they aren't right in your face.)

    2) I agree with you that valances are not cute, but I was looking up pictures of the horizontal flip-up cabinets and came across this picture:

    {{gwi:2135382}}

    I don't at all mind that valance. I think of valances as those dated scalloped things, but that one is clean and simple. If you can't have your cabinets to the ceiling, that doesn't seem bad alternative. Especially in conjunction with the shelves you have in mind, it's sort of like one more shelf. Kinda fits. And it does help anchor that lone cabinet to the right.

    3) This was sort of an accident, but I like the effect. The valance and two open shelves are both a contrasting color. I like that for a bit of interest, and I like that it makes your eye go to the shelves/window instead of the range/OTR microwave.

    Just an idea. As you leave layout concerns and start thinking about aesthetic ones, I am significantly less useful.

  • Carrie B
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Jillius - the flip up cabinet over the MW is genius. Makes so much sense!

    Yeah, symmetry was important to the KD (she didn't want to make the counter to the left of the range any smaller than 18". I did not fight her on that.) We took 6" from the initial 24" DW and another 6" from the left of the range.

    I'm finding you pretty useful now, with this aesthetic concern! You think it might be nice to have the shelves a contrasting color rather than white, and to add a cool valance as well? Luckily, those decisions can probably wait, but it helps me to visualize things.

    I love the way your shelves look visually, lined up & symmetrical w/ the MW area. I think that lower one will be right around my eye level view line, which I don't want obstructed. Is there any way around that? You seem to be really good at finding ways around things I don't like. :-)

  • Jillius
    9 years ago

    Actually, you are 63" tall, right? Counter height is 35", and the bottom edge of uppers is typically around 18" above that. That puts the bottom shelf ten inches below the top of your head. Your eyes will be looking between shelves.

    But you can play with that height. Go as low as 16" or as high as 20-something. A lot of this will depend on the OTR height specifications. Mock it up at different heights and with different depth shelves and see what you like.

  • Carrie B
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Yes, my eyes will be between the shelves, but there will be stuff on the shelves, and I'll want to be looking out and down most of the time, instead of straight out. Good idea about mocking it up & OTR specifications.

    Do you not sleep, Jillius? ;-)