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| How to Gel Stain Your Cabinets
Here's more than you need to know: My cabinets are frameless, good condition and good layout. But the finish had gone orange and ugly, with the oak graining too busy for me. Cabinets are 18 years old, very poorly finished oak veneered slab doors. Plain with no crevices. They didn't even take the doors off to finish them!!! No stain or finish on the hinge side edges. Cheezey, huh? I looked into changing out cabinets, but that was way too much money, since my layout was OK. Painting didn't seem right because the doors were plain slabs. I considered new doors but that still meant a lot of money. For a few years I tried to figure a way to add molding toward a mission look, but the rounded door edges made that impossible. Then trolling in a kitchen emporium showroom this last year I noticed dark wood slab doors, kind like mine, but darker. That was the answer. First I tried Minwax Polyshades. Dicey product. Hard to brush on neatly, then gummy, then seemed to leave a sticky tacky residue. I did a thread on the Woodworking Forum "Evil Polyshades to the Rescue" which elicited a lot of conflicting "expert" opinions and arguments that one must strip to bare wood. (Thread may still be around as that Forum moves slow.) I properly stripped acres of woodwork in an old Victorian when I was young and stupid. Never again! Jennifer-in-clyde (in the same boat) and I stumbled around on that woodworking thread to get to this method.
Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler. There are smaller sizes if your project is small.
You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set up 2 spaces, garage for sanding/cleaning and basement for staining/sealing. Use newspaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how you will prop doors to dry. Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6 doors at a time. Then just 10 minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the kitchen will be door-less for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable chunks.
Link to cabinets in progress: http://photobucket.com/albums/b45/celticm00n/kitchen cosmetic upda te project/kitchen during/ Link to almost finished cabinet pix: Good luck with your project!! Feel free to ask me any questions as you go.
Thread: Celticmoon? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| [Please, do not bump this thread!] |
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| Gorgeous cabinets - you give us ol' orange Oakies hope for redemption! |
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- Posted by kritter_2010 (My Page) on Wed, Mar 2, 11 at 1:41
| I'm gonna try this on my bathroom vanity. We're remodeling and going to re-use our oak vanity. No General Finishes are sold in my area, so I ordered online. Can't wait to try! |
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- Posted by julie94062 (My Page) on Sun, May 8, 11 at 23:57
| P.S. I see it says "please don't respond to thread", meaning that if you respond, it will go to Buehl, and she was just doing a favor reposting the instructions. She won't be able to answer any questions and celticmoon won't see it. |
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- Posted by julie94062 (My Page) on Mon, May 9, 11 at 0:00
| Sorry, Buehl, I meant to put this in the current thread! |
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- Posted by julie94062 (My Page) on Mon, May 9, 11 at 0:02
| Sorry, Buehl, I meant to put this in the current thread! |
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- Posted by Heather(heathermarie0827@yahoo.com) onFri, Sep 30, 11 at 16:49
| Celtic Moon, do I put all coats of Java on before I put any coats of clear coat? Thanks Heather |
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