Bus Driver,

Is it possible the resistance between yellow and white is 9 ohms? The reason I ask, your readings indicate the Black wire is common (marked as C), the white wire is run (marked R) and the yellow wire is start (marked S) If so, the ohms reading between yellow and white should be 9 ohms since the total resistance of the RUN and Start windings. If not, then there is most likely a shorted winding. Also do a check to ground off each terminal. You should get no reading, if you do, there's a short to ground.

If you're using an accurate meter, I might suspect a bad compressor. But if it's a general use meter those readings are so close, I might suspect a bad capaicitor.

If you have an Amprobe or other meter that can register and hold (lock) the amp reading, I can give you instructions on how to accurately test the capacitor.

40-50 bucks for a 25uf cap??? Where are you located, all the help you've given people here, I'll send you one for free, you pay postage.

Thanks for the reply and information. I do have a good meter, digital clamp-around ammeter with two ohm scales, DC and AC volt scales up to 600 volts. Yes, it does have button to retain readings. I will test as you suggested. The capacitor has other connections also. Not just a two-terminal affair. Part number is FSP 1187008. Perhaps it is combo capacitor/relay, if such exists. Internal short in compressor would mean this unit gets junked.

Are there 3 terminals on top i.e. does the capacitor list 2 capacitancies 25uf and maybe 3 or 5uf?

To test the capacitor...get a cheater cord. Connect 1 lead to each capacitor terminal. Clamp your ammeter around one wire and set it to lock on the highest amp reading. Momentarily (no more than 2 seconds) apply power and then disconnect. Then use this formula.....2650 x amps divided by volts equals uf

My meter is BK Precision. The capacitor is "potted" in a housing. It is just 25uf, single value. It really has just two terminals, but 4 conductors are connected to one of the terminals, hard to see without removing. But the voltage rating is 250 volts. Grainger has same uf but 370 volts. Perhaps this is a running capacitor, (oil-filled?). Some running capacitors will spew out a gel-type substance when they fail. I am told that electrolytic starting capacitors do not function properly if used at voltages considerably below their rating. But I doubt that this is electrolytic. Will 370 volt running capacitor substitute for 250 volt?

The one terminal with multiple connections is merely a common connection point rather than twisting and using a wire nut to make the connections.

The voltage rating is the maximum voltage for a run capacitor so the 370 will work fine. When a run capacitor leaks, there is a distinct odor. Run capacitors don't necessarily leak when they fail. Many of the newer run capacitors are not oil (PCB) filled. Many have an internal fuse and when it blows, the capacitor is unfortunately unusable.

Run and start capacitors are structured differently.
A run capacitor can remain in the circuit indefinitely where a start capacitor will burn up and even explode if left in the circuit for more than 7 seconds. As you know, the start relay takes the start capacitor out of the circuit once the compressor starts. That's why I suggested applying power for 2 seconds when testing the capacitor using the method I described. That would prevent a start cap. from blowing or exploding during the test.

I have the same dehumidifier ... My fans run and the compressor runs (I can feel the compressor kick on)... But I get no water in bucket ... any ideas ... Syd Conisbee

This thread is over 3 years old. At that time, I bought a new capacitor and installed it. No help. I junked the unit.
Syd, buy a new Frigidaire FAD704DUD and junk your old one.