Bend

You have relatively cheap electric rates especially when compared to propane.

I am listing below a fuel comparison between electric and propane. I used a 2.75 COP for electric HP and 95% eff for propane. Understand this is to be used as a guide only. Results below. You should note straight electric resistance heat is significantly less than propane on a cost/btu basis.

Cost per 100,000 btu of useable heat
Electric baseboard: $1.98
Heat pump: $0.80
Propane: $2.99

Forget propane altogether.

IMO

Hey thanks tigerdunes! I was just reading a different thread about hvac where you were helping out tremendously. I feel lucky. Thank you for your input! I will rethink this. :)

One other thought that I should have mentioned. Your electric service should be checked out to determine if you have capacity to handle the strip heat. I recommend the HP condenser, air handler, and strip heat be placed on separate circuits. Electric service may have to be upgraded/modified. Dealer should be able to advise you on this.

I am listing below my general minimum specs for new HP system.

15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF
best matching VS air handler
full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size
R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron)
scroll compressor preferred
electronic demand defrost preferred
thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature
staged backup heat strips
new and correctly sized refrigerant lineset
10 yr warranty on parts and compressor

you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc.

any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed.

My personal recommendation is Trane/AmStd, Rudd/Rheem, and Carrier/Bryant.

Depending on your location, I would not purchase a new system that did not have electronic demand defrost.

IMO

Those minimum requirements will be very helpful for my shopping. Thank you!