I am not familiar with the model numbers.

If you paid for a more expensive furnace, and were installed a lower tier model, then they should adjust your bill.

Are both models condensing furnaces? If so, is the attic space heated? If it is an unheated attic space, then it can be a problem with a condensing furnace. Ask them about this too.

I had a similar situation with a Trane installation about 7 years ago. I told the contractor what I wanted-features and performance-he took no notes. I believe that he then went back to the shop and told his wife what I wanted. She typed up contract with model numbers and I trusted those. They installed per contract. I was stuck. Scream for the correct furnace.

Mike

What is your location?

What size living space?

What size and eff furnace are you replacing?

Depending on size required, the furnace quoted is the higher efficiency and the one I would want.

I would ask dealer to come back and replace.

IMO

Mike

What is your location?

What size living space?

What size and eff furnace are you replacing?

Depending on size required, the furnace quoted is the higher efficiency and the one I would want.

I would ask dealer to come back and replace with mdl quoted.

IMO

Link to goodman furnaces.

Here is a link that might be useful: Goodman Furnaces

GKS90453BXA, 93%, 45K BTU compared to GMH950703BXA, 95%, 70K BTU.

As Tigerdunes alluded, the biggie is what is required in your place. What you got has almost half the BTU output. Where it gets sticky is whether they bothered to do a Manual J calculation so you know what is actually required.

What did they bill you for? Was there a written quote/estimate? No-one can really blame you for not checking the model number, who'd think of it? Having said that, I certainly will in the future.

If you're noticing a difference in heating time, I guess that's not a good sign.

Thanks all of you for your help.

We were billed for the higher efficiency model (Goodman GMH950703BXA). The lower efficiency and capacity model they installed seems to take a long time to heat the house (about an hour to go from 54 degrees F to 62 degrees F).

We live about 30 minutes south of San Francisco in California. The demands on the furnace won't be very high. Actually, the one they installed is probably rated correctly for the square footage of our home (about 1200 sq feet).

Nevertheless, the contract stipulated a Goodman GMH950703BXA and I was sort of looking forward to getting that installed instead of something else of lesser quality.

We are currently contacting the installer to find out what happened.

I guess the moral of the story is to check carefully the work the installer does and verify that the correct model is installed. I swear, you'd never be able to tell the difference between the models from the outside. I had to take off the panel and verify the numbers.

Good night,

Mike

I recently had an a/c and furnace installed. I had the installer give me the papers from the units before he installed because I needed the serial numbers to register the warranty. I'm glad I did because when he opened and removed the carton for the furnace, it was bent. Had I not been standing there-he would have installed what I call a damaged unit. As a female, I tried to cover all bases.
Good luck.

The same thing happened to me about 9-10 months ago. I contracted for a Trane XR95 single speed furnace of a certain output and they installed a much higher output model which made the home very uncomfortable. I called the installer and they agreed to take the furnace out. Since the removal of the incorrect furnace gave us a 'second chance' at our furnace selection we upgraded to an XV95 while we were at it.

If you're happy with the performance of the furnace that was installed then I would ask the dealer to refund the difference. If not, I'd demand that they install the furnace outlined in your contract. Good luck.

"The lower efficiency and capacity model they installed seems to take a long time to heat the house (about an hour to go from 54 degrees F to 62 degrees F)."

That does not seem to me to be subpar performance. But apparently you did not get what your contract specifies. At this point, I would have a different party do a Manual J to determine what size is needed for your premises. Then force the installer to get things correct. In NC, the licensing board will step in on your behalf if requested.

An hour to get 8 degrees of temperature increase, and only to 62F, and it isn't even winter yet? I'd say that that IS subpar performance. However, the 45kBTU 93% unit that they installed should be doing better than that for a 1200 square foot house, unless you have no insulation in your house (my previous house in San Jose had no attic insulation when I moved in!), or there is something wrong with the install or setup. Do you know the condition of you ducts?

As far as getting a refund, the difference in price of the units is under $200.

Eight degrees an hour sounds fast to me. It may be that the system is running with an outdoor reset. My system uses a reset and I would be very suspicious if my house went up eight degrees in an hour. The system will be more efficient when heating itself only enough to maintain indoor temp.

Braytonak -- is your system a boiler? The OP has a fairly simple forced air furnace -- I doubt that it has any "knowledge" of outside temperature, or any way to use that information if it did.

you tell them to replCE FURNACE WITH THE RIGHT ONE.

Hi All,

Thanks for all your posts. Well, my wife called up the installer and had him install the higher performance model Goodman listed above. It is now installed, and it really puts out the heat. Of course, the GMH950703BXA has about 66% better heating capacity than the other model, so I guess it is not surprising that there would be a substantial difference.

I have another question though; I went up into our attic to look at the AC wiring going into the unit and it appears there is no emergency power disconnect installed. Would you recommend that I get one installed? Apparently, the installer just grabbed some armored cable I had in my garage and ran that from the furnace, along the attic roof and into the ceiling--not sure where it goes from there. Also, it appears he didn't run a ground wire in there, just hot and cold wires. I suppose the unit gets its ground from some other pipe or something (gas pipe?), as the furnace is not supposed to run without a ground connected, according to the installation manual (which also says there is supposed to be an emergency disconnect, which I suppose the installer didn't read, or ignored).

Thanks for any info you can give.

Good nite,

Mike

I'm not sure about the requirement for an electrical disconnect at the furnace. My old furnace had a wall switch wired in series.

There IS supposed to be a light and a power socket close by, with those not on the same circuit breaker as the furnace, for convenience in servicing.

I didn't know there was such a thing as an armoured two-wire cable. There is no bare copper ground wire? That must be some old cable. Back in the day I think the armour itself could be considered a ground but I don't think that's code any more. Absolutely there must be a ground (make really sure you haven't missed it) and no, whilst the gas like gets tied to the ground wire, the gas like itself is not an acceptable ground in this instance.

Did they have your permission to use your cable to do the hookup? Sounds odd and lazy to me.

I thought it was universal that a disconnect was required at the perimeter (so in an emergency you're not forced to stand too close to the furnace to shut it off.

This just happened to me. The shop called me today. I wouldn't ever have known they look the same and I wouldn't have unscrewed the front panel to see the model number if they hadn't called. Of course I was upset it's a lot of noise and inconvenience. They are giving me a year's maintenance for free. Daikin. The one I purchased is a two stage and the one they put in is single torque. They are now installing the correct one.