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regmize

Replacing oil furnace and need advice.

regmize
9 years ago

We live in Asheville, NC in a 1200 SF1960's brick rancher. We have R26-R29 in the ceiling/attic. I am not sure if there is any insulation inside the exterior walls or not. The current duct work is metal. We have recently replaced all windows with low-e thermal pane windows. The old system is an oil furnace that is about 25 - 30 years old and is located in the crawl space under the house. We were told by the service technician that the heat exchanger is melted and that the furnace needs to be replaced. We do not have natural gas in the area so we would have to replace it with another oil furnace or a propane gas furnace.

We have gotten three quotes so far and feel like we are comparing apples to oranges, and are not really sure what option is best.

QUOTES FOR NEW FURNACE:
Company 1:
#1: $4400 using existing ductwork in same location
Bryant 915S Legacy Single Speed 80,000 btu LP furnace, Standard PSC Blower Motor, 95.5% afue, Legacy prg thermostat

#2 $5020 existing duct work in same location
Bryant 925T Preferred Two-Speed Boost ECM blower motor, 80,000 btu LP, 96.2% afue, Preferred prog thermostat

#3 $5440
Thermo Pride OD 85,000 btu oil furnace, 85.7% afue
-CO2 detector installed

#4 $5785
Thermo Pride OT 101,000 btu oil furnace, 78.2% afue

**I was also quoted an optional $700 to move unit closer to crawl space access door. Is this necessary?

** All the above quotes include 10 yrs parts, 2 yrs labor, & lifetime heat exchanger warranty and include permit fees, start up, removal of old furnace, and inspection

Company 2 (NATE & Trane Certified):
#1: $4,146.23 using existing duct work, in same location
-Trane XR95 Single Stage 1 or 2 pipe system direct drive blower (model #: TUH1B040A9241A)
-Maintenace (1 trip per yr + 15% discount on repairs)
-Honeywell Media Filter
-Install gas pipe to central location in crawl space
-condensate pump (up to 20 ft tubing)
-PVC vent 2-pipe side wall
-ductwork transition
-propane conversion kit
-county inspection
-remove/replace old furnace
-start up labor
-2nd man labor

Company 3 NATE & Trane Certified):
#1 $7868.00
-Trane XR95 60,000 btu, 95% afue (#TUH1B060A9361A) LP furnace
-prog thermostat (no brand or model listed)
-condensate drain materials
-new supply and return ductwork (to be placed in attic)
-duct blasting test
-removal and disposal of existing unit
-permit and final inspection
-1 year maintenance

**Ltd lifetime Trane heat exchanger warranty, 10 yr Trane parts warranty, 5 yr Trane extended labor warranty

QUESTIONS:

1. Would it be better to go with a propane furnace over replacing with another oil furnace? Which unit is the best one and which one will be the cheapest to run as far as monthly heating costs? Will a heat pump be a better option than either oil or propane for heating? Also do we really need a two speed blower?

2. Company 3 stated that the new gas furnace would not fit in the crawl space and would have to go in the attic and would require all new duct work, yet the other two contractors stated that a new oil or gas furnace could go back in the crawl space and hooked up to the existing ductwork.

Company 2 and 3 are both Trane certified and using Trane equipment, but quoted two different models of gas furnace and two different locations.

Any ideas why one Trane contractor would insist on new ductwork and moving the unit to the attic.

3. Which of the two Trane systems is better (TUH1B040A9241A or TUH1B060A9361A)? What is the difference between the two units?

4. Company 1 quoted 80,000 & 100,000 btu units and Company 3 quoted a 60,000 btu unit. That seems like a considerable difference. Why would it vary so much (All three contractors did heat load calculations).

The other option we were given was to install a heat pump with an electric strip emergency backup.

Our current electric system is a fuse box and would need to be upgraded to a 220 breaker box to install a heat pump. As part of the electrical upgrade the dead head would also have to be moved and installed together on a meter panel. We have received an estimate of appx. $2400 - $3000 for the electrical upgrade.

Our entire budget for the entire system including electrical is $11,000, but all the quotes we have received for a heat pump + electrical upgrade exceed that amount.

Both Trane contractors quoted us units that they stated qualify for 4-yr no financing through Nov 15th, 2014. They both stated that less expensive units would not qualify. We really want the no interest option since we would have to finance the system.

QUOTES:
Company 2 (air handler to be placed in crawl space below floor and ductwork replaced)
#1 $9193.85 + electrial
-Trane 15 SEER XR15 2 ton heat pump (4TWR5024G1000A)
-Multi Speed High efficiency 3-speed air handler (GAF20A36M31SA) (I think this is the XB Series with 36000 btu cooling)
-Trane 5KW Electric Strip - No Breaker - 1 stage for series 2 air handler
-Line set up 3/4 x 3/8 x 30 feet
-3H/2C Prog Thermostat with humidity control (TCONT803AS32DA)
-Maintenance (2 trips/year + 15% discount on repairs)
-Honeywell Media Filter
-Condensate Pump & 20' tubing
-9 replacement flex on existing supply
-1 replacement flex on existing return
-return plenum lined
-1 round metal duct per section
-supply plenum lined
-3" condenser pad
-County inspection & permit
-additional labor, second man
-HP2 outdoor unit without coil level 2
-labor start up
#2 $10,699.49 + electrical
-Trane XR17 2-stage 17 SEER 2 ton heat pump (4TWR7024A1000A)
-Trane 2.5 ton Series 7 Air Handler with Variable Speed R410A with comfort R enhanced mode option (TAM7A0B30H21SA) (I believe this is the Hyperion XL model with 30,000 btu cooling)
-5 KW Trane Electric Strip heater for series 7 & 8 air handlers without circuit breaker (BAYEVAC05LG1AA)
-3H/2C prog Thermostat with humidity control (TCONT803As32DA)
**everything else is the same as listed in quote #1

Company 3:
(Wants to put air handler in attic and replace all duct work and add new vents and return, as well as $200 additional to add attic access door)
#1 $13,178.00 (includes electrical upgrade in cost)
-Trane XR15 15 SEER 2.5 ton heat pump (4TWR5030G)
-Trane indoor air handler w/ R410a (GAM5BOB36)
-10KW auxiliary heat strip
-digital thermometer (no brand or model listed)
-outdoor concrete pad
-refrigerant line set
-condensate drain materials
-new supply and return flex ductwork to be placed in attic
-duct blasting test
-removal & disposal
-Permit & inspection

QUESTIONS:
1. Why is the tonnage different on the heat pump versus the air handler? One quoted a 2 ton heat pump and the other quoted a 2.5 ton heat pump. How do I know which one is the correct size? They both did a heat load calculation and are both Trane and NATE certified companies..

2. What is the difference between the multi-speed high efficiency blower and the variable speed air handler units. Also what is Comfort R enhanced mode option and is it something that is an additional expense or standard on Trane's variable speed handlers?

3. What is the recommended or best combinations of affordable heat pump and air handler together. I have heard that the TAM7 units leak a lot of air around the door and are inefficient because of that. Is this still an issue?

4. Company 2 also quoted only a 5KW aux heat strip versus 10KW quoted from company 3. Company 2 also noted "without circuit breaker" but we will have the electrical upgraded before we would install the heat pump. Did the salesman misunderstand or does that mean something entirely different? What is the difference between the 5KW and 10KW? How much do I actually need and what is the approximate price difference between them?

5. Is the Trane programmable thermostat (TCONT803 model) the best option? Is the humidity control something included on that model or is that an upgrade (ie:additional expense)? Do you have to get Trane's model or can you purchase a different model on your own and install it yourself?

6. Are maintenance plans optional (ie:added expense)? It is listed in the quote but I'm not sure that I want to pay extra for it.

7. Neither company will provide a line by line cost breakdown even after being asked, although company 3 did at least give me a general ballpark breakdown of his quote.

He stated that for the $13,178 quote:
$2400 was for the electrical upgrade
$3600 was for the ductwork (adding it in the attic)
$7178 was for the heat pump (and everything associated with it)

Do these prices seem reasonable or average based on the information provided?

8. Based on the information provided, does anyone see any items or inclusions that are an extra expense that could be removed or downgraded to reduce the overall expense so that we can fall within our $11,000 budget?

We still have two other companies coming to provide quotes as well, but I would like to be a little more informed so I know what questions to ask and so I can be comparing apples to apples and possibly get quotes on the same system if possible.

9. Should I call the companies back and get them to quote the same system as the other contractor so I can better compare?

Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated as this is a huge expense for us and we want to be budget conscious but also choose a good system that will last and be cost effective for us over the long-term as well as be inexpensive to run month to month.

Thanks,
Regina

Comments (4)

  • hvtech42
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    First of all, electric, propane, and coil costs vary across the country. You need to research the rates for each fuel in your area and make a decision accordingly. I will warn you to watch out for propane though; that stuff is pricey and may end up costing you more to run than oil.

    The equipment sizing in your quotes is indeed all over the map and you need to look into that. The way Manual J load calculations work is: garbage in, garbage out. Assuming all the contractors actually did Manual J and not some other load calc, the only explanation for the different sizing is that they used different values. I would ask to see the calculations so you might be able to see why they vary so much. 40K Trane (TUH1B040), 60K Trane (TUH1B060), 80K Bryant, 85K Thermo Pride, 100K Thermo Pride, what a mess. Actually the 100K Thermo Pride and 80K Bryant will be similar in output because of the differences in efficiency, but the other quotes are all over the place.

    As for one Trane contractor saying the furnace needed to be moved to the attic and the other didn't, that could be because of physical size differences between the 040 and 060 models quoted? Not really sure what's going on there though.

    For the heat pump quotes, you are seeing air handlers quoted larger than the outdoor units because the efficiency of the system is higher when you do that. You do sacrifice some dehumidification in the summer, though.

    Variable speed air handlers are more efficient than multi speed models, and are better at dehumidification. I would strongly recommend going with one if you can swing it.

    Comfort R is included on all Trane variable speed air handlers and is just a marketing term for the ramping profile on the blower for better dehumidification. It is an OK way to dehumidify, but a better way in my opinion is dehumidify on demand. This lets you set a humidity setpoint, and the system will slow down the variable speed blower when you go above it. You do not need to use a Trane thermostat for any of the system's functions to work. The Trane 803 is a rebranded Honeywell VisionPro 8000 which can only overcool to dehumidify, which is not optimal at all. I would want at least the VisionPro IAQ on any of the systems you were quoted with a variable speed blower. That way you will be fully taking advantage of the equipment you paid for.

    Heat strip sizing is covered in the Manual J load calculation. They say to size it to 80% of the whole heat load for the home. Some contractors prefer to size to cover 100% in cases where the heat pump fails and you need it to meet the whole load.

    I'm sure the companies would be happy to give you prices without the maintenance plan. That would be the first place I would go to cut costs.

    I am not really a Trane guy so can't comment on issues (or lack thereof) with the TAM7 Hyperion air handlers. Hopefully someone else here who works with Trane more can answer that.

    This post was edited by hvtech42 on Tue, Oct 14, 14 at 15:25

  • mike_home
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My first advice is to not get another oil furnace. It should be either a heat pump or propane furnace.

    If there is a plan in the future to connect your house to natural gas, then it makes sense to get a propane furnace. It is fairly easy to convert a propane furnace to natural gas in the future. If natural gas will never be available, then I think a heat pump makes more sense.

    Answers to your questions:

    1. The air handler blower can be set up to accommodate a range of heat pump sizes. The air handler could be rated up to 3 tons, but it can be configured to work with a 2 or 2.5 ton heat pump.

    2. A multi-speed blower has multiple speed settings. The speeds are set at the time of installation and do not vary. A variable speed blower changes based on the required air flow. The variable speed can change based whether it is heating or cooling mode. The multi-speed tends to be a compromise speed between the two.

    3. The Trane and American Standard (same equipment) are some of the best heat pumps on the market. You can't go wrong with these brands provided you stay away from the builder's grade equipment.

    4. I think "without circuit breaker" means you will have to hire your own electrician to upgrade the electric service. A 10KW heat strip provide twice the BTUs as a 5KW strip. I would think with your size house and climate 5KW would be sufficient. If you get something bigger it would be best it were staged (two 5KWs where one or two can turn on). Heat strips are not that expensive.

    5.The TCONT803 is OK, but as mentioned above there are better thermostats from Honeywell. It does not have to be a Trane model. It is best to have the dealer install the thermostat and fix it if it has problems.

    6. Maintenance plans are a way for the dealer to make more money. It may be mandatory to keep the labor warranty. I suggest paying for annual or bi-annual maintenance with a contract.

    7. The contractors don't like breaking out prices. You will get some guidance on pricing for the equipment and installation. It is difficult to comment how much labor is involved in upgrading the electrical service and modifying the duct work.

    8. Moving the furnace to the attic makes no sense to me. It is an big expense and the heat pump will not work as efficiently.

    9. It is easier to compare when contractors quote the same equipment. Most dealers only work with one or two brands. The best way to do this is to pick a brand and then get quotes from factory authorized dealers.

  • weedmeister
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You need to know the price of the fuels. Go find out the cost of electricity per kWh (complete price) and the cost of propane per whatever.

    Does the propane upgrade include installing a tank?

  • tigerdunes
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I agree with Mike.

    Get rid of oil.

    Find out price for propane price/gal and electric price/KWH. I will run a cost comparison analysis if you provide this info.

    Either DF system or straight electric. DF if strong likelihood of nat gas availability.

    Ductwork evaluation for your home.

    IMO