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kitasei

how to work around baseboard heat

kitasei
10 years ago

I want to install doors where the slantfin baseboard heater runs along one of the walls. Do i remove a section of the cover and fins, and make a hole in the door frame for the bare pipe to pass through? What is the order of operations to do this - i.e., who comes first, the carpenter or the plumber?? I should add that rerouting the pipe through the wall or under the floor is probably not an option since the wall is mortar and stone, and the floor tile. Thanks.

Comments (9)

  • mike_home
    10 years ago

    You need the plumber first to remove the section of baseboard heat where the door will be installed.

    Is there a basement underneath the tile floor? If yes then it is possible to drill a hole through the tile and run the pipe underneath and then come back up on the other side.

    If you know exactly the position and dimensions of the new door way then the plumber can do all his work prior to the door installation. If not he may have to come an reconnect the baseboard after the carpenter is finished.

  • kitasei
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    thanks. Unfortunately there really is not a basement. and the wall is plaster on stone (exterior). I was hoping to have the fins and cover removed, and the pipe inserted in the frame. Would this be ridiculous looking?

  • mike_home
    10 years ago

    I assume it is a half inch diameter pipe. Do you mean covered with the molding around the door? It would have to be a big molding that is built up for space for this pipe. I think it would look out of place.

    Is this baseboard part of a long run? If not, you may have sufficient baseboard left when you remove the piece on the other side of the door.

    Is there a way of reconnecting the cut off baseboard from the other end?

  • kitasei
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    The trim (molding or door casement) will have to be at least four inches from the wall in any case, and would abut a slant fin end piece. I didn't consider it possible to cut the pipe as I assume it's part of a loop. I'm talking about enclosing a washer and dryer in a bathroom or simply "framing" it to look built -in, so I don't want to crazy over this. Just hoped I could give the bathroom a more finished look.

  • mike_home
    10 years ago

    See if you can get the plumber and carpenter to meet to discuss some creative ideas on how to make this work. You are the one who has to be happy with the finished look.

    You want to allow space for pipe cover insulation. You don't want your door frame to heat up and waste energy.

  • mike_home
    10 years ago

    If the piping is an area where you want the heat, then it does not have to insulated.

  • ionized_gw
    10 years ago

    You are planning on running the pipe all the way over the door in an extra-thick casing? Slantfin, is that where you have a sheet metal enclosure, typically with a damper that can be opened at the top and the bottom open. This is with a finned copper pipe inside?

    If that is what we are talking about, keep in mind that you can loop the pipe back in the same direction that it came from, underneath the finned section. I don't know if that will help you out or not.

  • SaltiDawg
    10 years ago

    I had a home to which I added hot water baseboard heat in the basement.

    I decided to run the copper pipe under the door. Borrowed a Skil Saw, bought a diamond blade. Burned out thesaw and bought a new one for my neighbor.

    When the plumber showed up, he asked me why I didn't simply ask him to run the copper up the jamb, across the top, and down the other jamb.

    My wife still occasionally asks me that same question.

    BTW. I paid a premium for oil in those days - 12 cents a gallon - 2 cents over market price. Got all plumbing repairs for material costs only... no labor costs. Adding heat to the basement cost me less than $100 IIRC.

    Those were the days!

    This post was edited by saltidawg on Wed, Oct 23, 13 at 21:22

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