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sniffdog

ERV settings - what makes sense

sniffdog
14 years ago

I finally installed the last piece of my HVAC system with the ERV installtion. I installed a Broan GSEH3K unit which includes a HEPA filter. Everything is working great - but now I need a little advise on how to run it.

I live in Nothern Virginia at 1200 ft elevation - so spring and fall are pretty mild, winters can be a little cold and damp, summers can be a little hot and sticky. The biggest issue has been humidity - too much in summer and not enough in winter - so I installed humidifiers and a whole house dehumidifier to deal with that. The HVAC is geothermal.

The ERV was installed in the basement using the stand alone configuration. I draw stale air from a return duct that has a register in a large 2 story room (library) on the first floor. The fresh air side supply of the ERV dumps into the basement. I have Vision PRO IAQ thermostats that cycle the HVAC fans for ventilation every 20 minutes. The ERV and HVAC are not directly connected electrically. We have 2 adults and 3 little dogs living in the house.

Currently I have the EFV running continuously on the Min setting which according to the operator manual says will deliver 70 cfm of fresh air, and will consume 170 watts of power. The manual also says that Boost or Max mode will deliver 100 cfm, and will consume 224-227 watts of power. In Min mode, it will take 16 hours to completely exchange all the air in my house. In boost mode, it would take 10 hours.

I just looked at the spec sheet (which they state is measured in the max mode) and I do not know what the Filtered number means but undersatnd the rest. I am thinking I should I have the ERV in Boost mode. The cost of the extra 50 watts to run in Boost mode is about 11 cents per day - peanuts. The only downside is the ERV makes more noise in Boost mode - but it is still pretty quite. Here are the specs for the unit in Boost Mode

Static Pressure: 100 Pa or .4 w.g.

Supply: 102 cfm

Exhaust: 117 cfm

Filtered: 254 cfm

Consumed Power: 224 watts

Static Pressure: 50 Pa or .2 w.g.

Supply: 105 cfm

Exhaust: 125 cfm

Filtered: 270 cfm

Consumed Power: 227 watts

Should I run this ERV in Boost mode? Why is the supply spec less than the exhaust spec? What is the filtered spec number telling me?

Also - they unit has another mode (Auto) with a temperature contoller in it - which is one of the reasons I bought it. In this mode, the unit will come on for 20 minutes per hour and either turn off or recirculate for the remianing 40 minutes per hour. I can set low and high temperature limits to turn the unit off and I was planning to use this mode in the peak of winter and summer when outside temps are extreme. I have the limits set to 32 deg F for the low limit (which is the highest I can set the low limit) and 81 deg F for the high limit. Any advise on how to properly use this mode would be appreciated.

Thanks

Comments (6)

  • dadsair
    14 years ago

    The ERV was installed in the basement using the stand alone configuration. I draw stale air from a return duct that has a register in a large 2 story room (library) on the first floor. The fresh air side supply of the ERV dumps into the basement.
    if i am reading this correctly, you are doing something could be very dangerous. By taking air out of your house an not putiing it basck could cause you house to go negative. If the house goes 2 negative you will draw excess air through the envelope thereby defeeting the purpose of the ERV. Alse if you have any gas burning appliances or a fireplace you coild be pulling that air back through the vents. Unless of course the basement is open the rest of the house?

  • creek_side
    14 years ago

    By taking air out of your house an not putiing it basck could cause you house to go negative.

    The basement is part of the house. ;-)

    Reread sniffdog's post.

  • sniffdog
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    yes - the ERV take-ith and give-ith air. I inatalled this per the instructions and there are 3 or 4 different configurations that are possible. I just want to know how to set the ERV control settings.

    I struggled with the decision to install this in a standalone configuration. I wanted to tie the ERV into my IAQ tstat controllers which I could easily do with a 110V dry contact activated relay. However, if I do that I would have to bypass the Broan controller and that would only allow me to only turn the ERV on or off, eliminating the automated features in the Broan unit like the Auto Mode with temperature limits.

    Any advise on the ERV settings and the operation in extreme tempertaures would be greatly appeciated.

  • creek_side
    14 years ago

    I'm following this thread with interest. We have an Aprilaire ERV going in our new build. We will also have a V.P. IAQ 'stat. No clue yet as to how or if they are going to be integrated.

    The ducting is in. The ERV has its own return close to the kitchen. The supply is being pumped into the heat pump's return, if I recall correctly.

    The installers put the exterior ducts through the basement wall about ten foot apart. I'll be interested to know how your Broan does with the intake and exhaust going through the same penetration. I'm assuming that is how it is installed from reading the Broan literature.

  • sniffdog
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Yes - that is the other reason I bought the Broan. I only had to make one 6 inch penetration through the house which has a stone veneer on it. It wasn't easy, but I made a perfect 6 inch hole through 1 large piece of stone - got lucky. Doing two of those perfectly would have been too much to expect.

    The Broan vent is very interesting. It is an areodynamic design that pushes stale air upward and takes fresh air from below. Seems to work just fine.

    My Honeywell Vision Pro IAQ stat has a dry contact relay on the interface module for the Ventilator (it also has relays for a De-humidifier and Humidifier). When you program the stat for the Vent, it turns on the HVAC fan and closes the Vent dry contact. I programmed my 2 IAQ stats for the Vent, but they don't know that the ERV is not attached. I just use the HVAC fans to circulate the fresh air coming into the basement from the ERV to the rest of the house.

    To connect the ERV to my HVAC system, I would use a RIB 110V Relay with dry contact activation. I would connect the dry contact inputs on the RIB to the IAQ interface module Vent contacts. When the IAQ Vent dry contact closes, it would thgen activate the RIB relay which would and power up the ERV.

    The only problem with this approach is that it would probably mess with the Broan controller timing while in Auto mode. When you put the unit into Auto, it has a 20 minute ON, 40 minute OFF or Recirculate cycle. It also has the tempreture limit settings - the unit runs for a few minutes and sense the external temperature. I fthe limits you set are exceeded, the unit either shuts off or recirculates. When you remove power to the controller (which would happen if I used a RIB relay to periodically provide power to the ERV), I am not sure what would happen to the Broan contoller internal timers - probably a reset.

    I was told by the Broan engineers that the unit was designed to run constantly and they recommended the standalone mode. I guess they added the Auto mode becuase there probably are some instances when you don't want the ERV on. For exmple, when it is zero degrees outside, I want all holes into my house plugged up!

  • karunde
    13 years ago

    Hello sniffdog,

    Great products of HVAC system.
    I like this products.
    Thanks for great sharing.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Air Ventilator - HVAC manufacturer and Supplier

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