Leave the baseboards for backup and extra cold days.

Then install high eff heat pump with backup heat strip.

What is your electric rate?

Electric breaker box will need to be checked to see what capacity you have. Condenser, air handler, and strip heat should be on dedicated separate circuits. May require upgrade.

IMO

Well that's not quite the answer I was looking for, but you're probably right. I was just hoping there was a better solution than spending a bunch of money putting the baseboard heat back together AND buying a heat pump.

I think the electric rate is about $0.14, and I'm upgrading the service to 200amps and rewiring the whole house, so I think that I should be okay.

Other than the fuel cost, baseboard hot water heat is great. This gives you a choice. How old is your boiler? Any operating problems?

I just think the redundancy is good. Use the HP down to freezing/mid 20s.

I ran some fuel cost comparisons and you would see some solid savings with a HP.

Here is my personal checklist.

Obviously correct sizing is important. If you are unsure, then request a load calculation or even perform it yourself for a nominal fee online.

there are three equally important components-quality HVAC, the install by dealer, and probably the most overlooked and disregarded is the ductwork system.

these are my minimum specs for a new HP system. both outside and inside units should be replaced to have a properly matched system.

15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF
best matching VS air handler
full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size
R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron)
scroll compressor preferred
electronic demand defrost preferred
thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature
staged backup heat strips
new and correctly sized refrigerant line set

you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc.

any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed.

I would only use authorized dealers for the various brands that provide quotes.
see mfg websites.

I would look at Trane/AmStd,Rheem/Rudd,Carrier/Bryant.

Depending on your location, I would not purchase a new HP system that did not have electronic demand defrost.

IMO
Good Luck!

The boiler is in decent shape, but it's 35 years old, and the basement has been vacant and very damp for about 2 years, so it could go at any time.

I will get load calcs, but if I use two systems, 1.5 tons each is already oversizing. That why I'm on the fence about stepping up to a 2 ton two stage. 2 tons each will really be over kill (4 tons in a 2.5 ton house), but 2 stage may keep me closer to 1 ton in the first stage. Maybe?

I'm now starting to think about mini splits upstairs, and conventional on the first floor...

it is called fur downs. ducts are run in
conditioned space and fur downs are bulit around
ducts.
this is what I did, putting R-8 ducts in my
hot attic was not even a consideration.
I also went with a heat pump and guess what...
last year my july bill was $148 ...this year
....$72 and that includes about $10 for security
light & misc.
my utility rate is .08

tigerdunes gives good specs & info.
evaluate duct/return system, mastic seal
everything & fix house air leakage.
blower door testing will show you things
you never imagined.

best of luck.

I like my my mini splits, but I don't live where it is cold. The zoning works very well for me.

I like my my mini splits, but I don't live where it is cold. The zoning works very well for me.

Looks like keeping the baseboard is out. Found a run between floors that had a loose joint from all of my cutting and hacking with the sawsall. So now I wouldn't trust the pipes without ripping out the floors and inspecting all of the joints.

So...i had a Bryant dealer out and he gave me a quote on an extreme hp evolution system. It was the same price a goodman system from a different installer. We did find a good route for the ductwork to get to the second floor, so it will be one system in the basement. I'll post the model no. and whatnot when he puts together the final quote.

Looks like keeping the baseboard is out. Found a run between floors that had a loose joint from all of my cutting and hacking with the sawsall. So now I wouldn't trust the pipes without ripping out the floors and inspecting all of the joints.

So...i had a Bryant dealer out and he gave me a quote on an extreme hp evolution system. It was the same price a goodman system from a different installer. We did find a good route for the ductwork to get to the second floor, so it will be one system in the basement. I'll post the model no. and whatnot when he puts together the final quote.

There must be a way to pressure test the system.

Yeah, I thought about some kind of pressure test, but from what I could tell, it would have taken some extensive repair work just to put the system back to a loop of some kind worthy of being tested. So, it's too late now anyway. The Base Board is gone. It really was a mess, and if I ever want to, I could always add some clean new radiators or base boards to the rooms that need it.

That being said, I have a decision to make:

Option #1 - Variable Speed Air Handler Model#FE4ANF003Twith a 3-Ton, 16 SEER 2 Stage Heat Pump with Air Conditioneing Unit Model#286BNA036.

Option #2 - Variable Speed Air Handler Model#FE4ANF005Twith a 3-Ton,20 SEER Inverter Heat Pump with Air Conditioneing Unit Model#280ANV036

Both Systems Equiped with Evolution Zone Controls for 2-Zone Heating and Cooling System. 15 KW Heat Strip ect. Option to add Humidifier and Media Filter +$1,000.

The installer did an operating cost analysis and it showed the Extreme System (20 SEER) being just a bit better in cooling, but $900/year less in heating.

Which to I pick?

Well, an installer that I had forgotten about just sent me a REALLY good proposal. He was a local non-salesmen like guy which was a nice change and he was really easy to talk to. It's a Luxaire system. Here's the AHRI Cert: 3831747.

What do you guys think?