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njveggieman

Furnace Blower Motor Overheating

njveggieman
9 years ago

My central air has been working fine all summer, however, yesterday I noticed a burnt electrical odor coming through my vents. I found that the blower motor was extremely hot .(could not touch for more than a second) I let it cool down and turned the system on and the motor ran fine, but became hot again. I tested the dual-run capacitor and it checked out fine. This is a 30-year old Bryant furnace that has never had the blower motor replaced, so this appears to be death by natural causes. Everything spins freely and the motor is not making any noise, humming etc. This is probably a dumb question, but when these types of motors go bad, is it due to some internal failure that causes it to happen all of a sudden like this? Is there any other cause I may be overlooking?

Comments (15)

  • tigerdunes
    9 years ago

    It would not be cost effective or good judgement to replace that motor.

    I suggest you start laying the groundwork on a new furnace/system ASAP.

    IMO

  • njveggieman
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    The entire system works flawlessly, so I am not sure how much of a chance I am actually taking by replacing the motor. Replacing the entire system seems like an extreme move, especially when I do not have several thousand dollars to spend right now.

  • tigerdunes
    9 years ago

    30 yrs old...extreme?....

    Get a cost on replacement.

    Years ago, there use to be motor shops that could turnaround a complete job in 24 hrs...not sure if that type of service is available for your location....pls motors have gotten so cheap both in cost and quality.

    IMO

  • mike_home
    9 years ago

    The motor may be developing a short internally causing it to draw excessive current and over heat.

    Is all the HVAC equipment 30 years old? If it is, then consider yourself luck that it has lasted this long. You could spend the money on replacing the motor, but it is a poor gamble.

    Be prepared for high quotes and contractors wanting to sell you a system. Most contractors don't want to take on these types of repairs.

  • tigerdunes
    9 years ago

    I would try to find a motor shop.

    Get the specs off the motor, frame, HP, RPMs, etc

    Call Grainger...

    Check on motor repair shop. Most not only repair but also sell new.

    I still say motor replacement is a bad decision.

    IMO

  • tigerdunes
    9 years ago

    I can't blame you. As long as it's a total direct replacement.

    You plan on installing? You have the knowledge especially following safety protocol?

    For that amount of money a cheap option and low risk.

    Post back.

    IMO

  • bus_driver
    9 years ago

    It is important to check the amperage draw of the new motor just as soon as it is powered immediately after installation. It must not be more than the FLA value on the nameplate of the motor.

  • njveggieman
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Picked-up the motor and capacitors at Grainger and installed this weekend. Measured draw when it first started and it was right on the money...5.12. FLA rating is 5.3. Heat and AC working flawlessly. New motor is not overheating.

    Grainger was a great resource...they had the OEM motor for just about $100 less than most internet sources and it was available for pickup at the store the next day...no shipping cost.

    This was actually a pretty easy project once I found the motor and after I watched some very informative You Tube videos. Incidentally, I checked the draw on the old overheating motor before I removed it and it was double the rated amperage (mid 10s)

  • mike_home
    9 years ago

    Nice work. What was your total cost for the repair and how long did it take to swap the motors?

  • njveggieman
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Including all parts (motor, 2 capacitors, electrical fittings), the total cost was $241.11.

    Took me about four hours, mainly due to a lot of time spent cleaning the squirrel cage and blower housing, which were a mess. Also had to change all of the connectors coming from the furnace board and motor wires. (The old motor used a proprietary terminal block) I was also extra careful to be sure the band around the motor was evenly positioned and not covering the openings that allow air to flow into the motor. Tested and installed a new dual-run capacitor in the AC unit to be sure that was solid from the outset. A lot of small details, but nothing terribly complicated.

  • Jamiul Athar
    8 years ago

    Same happened to my outside compressor blower fan, I just changed the Run Capacitor

    and all fine.

  • Jamiul Athar
    8 years ago

    Cost me only $5 from e-bay

  • jmtsmall
    8 years ago

    How long do moldy odors last in a HVAC? We started having

    this problem back in June and now it is November the acrid

    odor out of our floor vents in a single floor house with an

    unfinished basement still happens. Any idea what it could be?

    PS our system seems to operate okay but that odor.

  • Vith
    8 years ago

    Look up dirty sock syndrome (DSS)