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mikehende

Wood stove ok to heat garage?

mikehende
16 years ago

I have a non-insulated 1-car Brick Garage [L20'xW10'xH8'] and have tried propane and kerosene heaters in there but they did not work well when temps dip below 30 degrees. I was told by someone that I can try a fireplace or wood stove in the garage, one person told me that using a wood stove in a house or totally sealed area will work good but for a garage with cold drafts coming in from around both the large pull-up and side doors that the wood stove would only heat the area around the stove and not the entire garage.

One heating person told me that that as long as I get a stove which has more 32,000 btu's capacity, it will work well in there. Another told me that btu's don't really matter, it depends on the amount of wood used which will determine how hot the place gets.

Can anyone simply tell me if the wood stove will heat the "entire" garage please and not only the space immediately surrounding it so we won't have to stand around or close to the stove? Thanks.

Comments (53)

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    So the heat will spread around the "entire" garage or would you have to stand around the stove to get adequate heat?

    Of course it will. The farther you are from the stove, the cooler, but only by a few degrees. If the garage is 30 to start, I would begin heating the garage at least 8 hours earlier.

    You are going to need the air leaks to replace the air going up the chimney, so don't block them. You may even need to crack a window. If smoke comes into the garage after the first 10 minutes, you don't have enough venting. You may also have to warm the chimney to establish a draft if it's that cold in there. Take sheets of newspaper and light a few of them and keep adding until the smoke goes up the chimney with the firedoor open, then start your fire.

    I don't know the size or insulation of your garage, but a 30K btuh stove should do the job.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thanks for the tips, the 1-car sized garage is non-insulated so it's only Brick with dimensions [L20'xW10'xH8'] it has a wooden pullup 8'x8' front door and a metal side door [regular size] and a 4'x4'window made of plexi-glass and a sheet-rocked roof.

    One problem is people who ar selling the stoves usually don't know the btu's.

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    You should be able to heat something that small with a kerosene space heater. No chimney needed.

    I can't imagine a wood stove smaller than 30K btuh and there doesn't seem to be a need for a wood stove in that small of an area.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I tried using vent-free kerosene and propane 25k btu heaters in there, don't work when it's really cold. I guess maybe it's becuase the garage is not insulated and also since I could not find a kerosene heater which puts out 32k, except for the bullet or bazooka type which won't work, too much noise and smell.

    So it looks like I'm stuck with the wood stove idea, getting one is not a problem, the major problem is getting the pipes and chimney top installed, I hear this can be very expensive and I will have to deal with "codes".

  • chapnc
    16 years ago

    LOL

    Yes, you may very well have to deal with "codes". This is to prevent you from burning the garage down with you and your buddies in it.

    I can see you inviting your buddies over for a BYOFW party (bring your own fire wood).

    Go ahead and try a wood stove, but install the flue properly, and to code. Once you're used to it, you'll find a wood stove very easy to regulate. There are air supply openings (usually on the door) that you open or close to control combustion air. More air, more combustion (more heat). Less air, less combustion. Wide open, they can throw out a *lot* of heat. If the garage gets too hot, just close down the air inlets and open a window for a few minutes.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Isn't there "easy" instructions anywhere that I can get to install the piping and chimney top myself? I don't have to worry about any combustibles surrounding the stove,only need to know the correct way to setup the piping and chimney top. Searched the net but couldn't find anything that's easy to understand.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I spoke to 2 guys who each told me that they have their piping run through the wall using an elbow and not through the ceiling as most folks do and theirs work just as good.
    Is this safe?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    Sure it's safe. As long as it's insulated pipe, UL rated, and installed according to directions and clearances.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Does it matter "where" in the Garage the stove is placed? The spot I have envisioned for it is more to one corner of the room, is this good or do I have it place it more along the "middle" of the room in order to heat the entire room?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    The heat will travel. Ideally, you would place it at the coldest part of the garage, but you can put it anywhere you want. You have to maintain the clearances on the sides of it for safety, or build some sort of fireproof wall or metal shields around it which will reduce the clearances.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    The ideal spot I want for it is under the 4'x4' plexiglass window mentioned. This window is 2&1/2' off the ground and is located dead center of the room, there is no combustible materials anywhere near this location. From what I understand, the "top" of a typical stove will be 3 to 4 ' from the ground so this means if I were to place a stove under or alongside this window then the top of the stove will be right in front of the bottom part of the window so I am wondering if the plexiglass would affect anything or if the stove would affect the plexi, simply put, should I or should I not place the stove under this window please? Thanks.

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    Tough question to answer. I think Plexiglas is combustible. You might as well call your local codes officer and ask him, since you only want to do the job one time and do it right the first time. Right?

  • rbanks
    16 years ago

    Plexiglas melts pretty easy, 240C (464F) or so.

    I'd keep it away from that.

    Here is a link that might be useful: wiki/Acrylic_glass

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    ok, thanks for the advice, better safe than sorry, will place the stove immediately to the right of the window, alongside the brick wall, will this be ok?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    You need to keep a certain amount of inches away from combustibles. You can run your smoke pipe out anywhere near the stove. I've seen runs of 10 feet from the stove to the exit hole.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Alright got the placement of the stove settled along with the combustible issues, did a lot of reading on the net about wood stove installation which will be my next series of questions, before I go to that, I would appreciate any knowledge on the air "draft" issue. From my reading it seems that not all wood stoves have this feature? If so then which one should I get, one without the draft or one with or doesn't it matter and at the same time, what's the purpose of the draft? Please explain this draft issue for me? Thanks.

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    All stoves require air inlets in order to burn. The air enters somewhere under the fire bed and is regulated. Take a trip to the local wood stove store where you will have all your questions answered at one time.

  • daddo
    16 years ago

    Why not insulate the garage, use rubber pads to seal the garage door and seal the other door, then use a small electric heater or a small woodstove that gets outside air for combustion ? A ceiling fan reversed could distribute the warm air more evenly.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    @baymee
    Living here in Queens, NY, I cannot find a store nearby which sells woodstoves which is exactly why I have to come here for help.

    @daddo
    Key reason for not insulating the Garage is that is the summertime the brick keeps the garage cool, no matter how hot it is outside as long as I am under the ceiling fan, I'm fine, if I were to insulate then I would have to air condition the garage.

    Anyway guys, I think I have the installation part covered from the instructions I have found here:

    http://hartshearth.com/chimney/chimney_images.htm

    I will be going through the wall so my next step is to look into the piping, from the top of the stove I will go 4' up, use a 90degree elbow, go through the wall, use another 90degree elbow and go straight up to 24" above the roof using wall straps. Any tips on purchasing the piping and accessories?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    Google Olympia or Olympic (chimney supplies) in Scranton, PA. They "might" sell to you. Otherwise they may give you a name of a dealer.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I looke at Olympia's site and requested someone contact but they are sales peopl so you never know if they may want to encourage me to purchase stuff I may not really need so I am asking here for advice to know for sure.

    1] I saw that they have "flex" pipes, if I can use this then there should be no need at all for me to use "elbows" to go through the wall, correct or not?

    2] I was told that I would need "insulated" piping or a pipe with an inner lining, does this mean that the flex pile is so good I will NOT need an inner lining, that the flex pipe they advertise will be the only piping I will need?

    3] I understand the purpose of a "damper", im my case it should NOT be neccesary becuase I will only use the stove on a Saturday so no need to keep anything in the garage until the next 7 days, correct?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    Wood stoves don't use barometric dampers. A flex liner is placed inside an existing chimney. You'd need a double walled pipe through the wall and on the exterior of the garage, with a clean-out T and maybe a cap.

  • edsacre
    16 years ago

    At the very least insulate the roof. That's where most of the heat goes & in the summer it will keep the heat from the attic from coming down.
    I used to do the same in a friends uninsulated garage. When it was really cold the woodstove would only get the place warm enough to listen to music & drink rather than plugging in the guitars & playing. It would take a good few hours to warm it up if we waited that long.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    The ceiling is insulated with fiberglass and I have a fan dead center of the garage which really spreads the heat. Yeah, the garage usually takes a while to heat up.

    Called up Olympia, they cannot sell to home users so they referred me to another chimney installation company who can't sell to me either. Guy I spoke to says that I will have trouble getting the accessories for this wood stove. He also told me that I will need a very heavy guage pipe to stay up to code if I am running the pipe on the outside wall. He suggested I go straight through the ceiling, he aslo said that I go through the ceiling, I will need a special piece of piping for the area between the lower and upper ceiling, he didn't remember the name of this special pipe so he told me to call tomorow morning and he will look it up.

    So now this changes things if I have to go through the ceiling, let me see if I got this all correct:
    Bvent pipe attaches to stove collar, goes 5' up to the lower ceiling, attach the special short piece of pipe to it, use support brackets at both ends of the short pipe, attach another 3' Bvent at top of ceiling, place spark arrestor on top of pipe and then rain cap on top of that, done?

    If the above is correct the my total list of supplies would be
    1] Approx 8' Bvent piping
    2] Short piece of special piping for between the lower and upper ceilings.
    3] 2 sets of support brackets. [One for lower and one for upper ceiling]
    4] Spark Arrestor
    5] Rain cap.

    Did I miss out anything?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    A T for cleanout? The special pipe through the ceiling prevents the stove pipe from causing fires by means of extra clearance.

    The pipe isn't cheap. For you occasional use, you might not think the project worthwhile.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I'll look into the short pipe issue tomorow when the guy gives me the name of it. Please explain the "T for cleanout"?

  • brickeyee
    16 years ago

    "Yes, you may very well have to deal with "codes". This is to prevent you from burning the garage down with you and your buddies in it."

    Or killing everyone with CO.

    Insulation works both ways...It will keep heat in as well as out.

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    A T is for cleaning the chimney. It allows the brush to go straight up. I've only seen them outside the house at the bottom of the upright flue pipe.

  • kalining
    16 years ago

    Seems like your over your head on this one. you have not done the most important thing first. Contact your insurance
    company and see if they will even allow you to have a wood stove and if they will underwrite the policy. You do NOT
    use B vent. you use what is called ZERO clearance pipe and the matching "T". That will cost you more than the stove. About $1.50 an inch and about $110.00 for the "T".
    You leave the stove with normal thin wall stove pipe and install the damper about one foot above the flue collar.Through the wall or ceiling, up to you. Install the zero clearance " thimble " to pass the pipe through. Then connect the "T" and totally insulated pipe to the proper
    hight. Minimum 3 feet high and 10 feet back from the lowest point of the peak or 2 feet high on a flat roof. The lateral run, if you go through the wall, is connected opposite from a gas furnace and slopped back to the stove. The crimped ends go IN and back to the stove so creosote drips back into the stove. Then you need the right size of stove. Too small, not enough heat, too big, you burn the
    garage down and you have a negative pressure as the stove tries to get it's air. It should take about 1 year to learn how to fire it. Poplar, very fast burning, lots of ash, and little heat. Tamarac, very slow burning, Very
    DANGEROUS heat if over fired and little ash. If your burning used Flats, and most people do, very stupid. If they'er not clean you never know what chemical was spilled on them before you burn them. If it's a combustable
    chemical god help you. Once you get it figured out it keeps you very busy. I had a wood stove in my garage for 2 months. ripped it out. Just as the garage was warmed up i was finished what i had to do in there. Waisted a lot of heat and wood. I put in an oil furnace. Flip the switch,heat. Flip the switch, no heat. Mind you a wood stove has character. you put your cast iron frying pan
    on the top and cook your deer sausage. Good luck. Check on your codes. Oh yah,NEVER down size the pipe after the flue collar. You can increase the size but it will cut down on the efficiency.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I spoke to the guy again this morning [about the special pipe needed] and he said more or less what you're saying, that I should have a pro install this but he said for my purpose, he doesn't think it is worth it, he said that if I were to bu using the wood stove as my everyday heat then it would be worth the trouble but just 4 days per month doesn't seem worthwhile.

    I am getting a headache, just when I had my mind set on this, looks like I have to go to some other method. The best heat I've enjoyed in there was the Kerosene heat which was odor free

    http://cgi.ebay.com/DYNA-GLO-23-000-BTU-KEROSENE-HEATER-MODEL-RMC-95-C4_W0QQitemZ190130293859QQihZ009QQcategoryZ115964QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

    but since these these heaters don't go more than 25k btu, it wasn't enough and I need at least 32k btu. I am looking into this, "the Prospector

    http://www.aaoobfoods.com/dieselstoves.htm#top

    but would like a cheaper alternative, any ideas anyone without myself haivng to insulate the garage?

  • kalining
    16 years ago

    Why don't you insulate 4 feet up from the floor and run a
    220 volt line and use a construction heater ? they work
    well or use two kerosene heaters. my brother uses a construction heater in his garage for supplement heat when
    the over head door is opened on a -40 deg. day to catch up.
    I have a kero-sun heater, the one that lights up the room.
    It has a cook top and you can still put a frying pan on it
    to cook your deer sausage.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Now that I think of it, makes perfect sense anyway you look at it, on MOST days I will only need just one 25k btu heater so if I add another then it's like I will be using 50k, more than enough, not so? Man and I gave away the freakin new heater I had bought, now I got to go buy 2 of them, one thing comes to mind, when I had that same type of heater you had, the clean type of kerosene I had to buy for it was expensive, I think $15 for 3-gallon container.

    Other people who has the smae heater told me they but the regular cheap kerosene from the local Gas stations and this works fine without any smell, what's your take on this, do I have to buy the expensive clean kerosene [ I think it was called K-1, if I remember correctly] or would the cheap kerosene work without any or much odor?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    I always used the gas station kero and if the wick is trimmed, it never smelled.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Well, I never tried that kero, when I bought the unit, the instructions recommended that I use it with the k-1 to prevent odor so that's what I always did. One of my friends has one room in the lower part of his house which doesn't have any heating, he uses this same heater and regular kerosene in there and swears that there isn't any smell, I always questioned the use of a kero heater inside a sealed room but anyway, others have told me the same.

    In the garage I never had to worry about the smell becuase of the drafts coming in from both doors mentioned. I will try the regular kerosene this time around especially since I will be running 2 heaters, any ideas where I might get 2 good "used" heaters besides Ebay?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    K Mart

  • kalining
    16 years ago

    Most kerosenes have no smell if you have actual kerosene and not a substitute. The expensive kerosene has no trace
    elements in it and your heater will last as long as the
    manufacturer says it will with no problems. So how long does 3 gallons of kerosene last at $5.00 a gallon ? A long time. the heater only holds 1 gallon, tops and will last a
    maximum of 8 - 12 hours. $15.00 for a maximum of a 36 hour
    steady burn is pretty cheap. a $15.00 bag of birch wood
    might last 2 hours in a wood stove. I don't think you and your buds will be in the garage for 36 hours. those heaters
    are designed to be used in the home in a confined space with the PROPER EXPENSIVE kerosene. you can run diesle in them if you want but i wouldn't want to be in the same room
    when it is burning. Check out garage sales or auctions. You
    might get lucky. The thing is if you can smell it you have
    incomplete combustion. something is wrong. The only smell
    you should get is the smell of the unburned oil in the tank. If you want to go nuts and impress the boys get yourself a propane forced air furnace from a travel trailer
    they are small, about the size of a 14" T.V. and about 60,000 B.T.U. and you can use a "B" vent. sorry no deer
    sausage on this one and not much character.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Alright, I will check Kmart, thanks!

    Just when I had settled on 2 kerosene heaters lol, ok, I'll bite, glad you mentioned this as I would like to explore all possible options. I searched the net for what you said but can only find this:

    http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm/productID/453057556/p/Goodman_GDS80453AX

    Is the above what you're referring to please?

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    BTW guys, regarding placement of the 2 kerosene heaters, I have been told that a heater should be placed at the coldest spot of a room, the coldest spot is always near or at the main garage door, others have said that this may not be a good idea because the heat will escape where the draft is coming in [around the door], any ideas on this? Also, seeing I will be using 2 heaters, where would be best to place both heaters? I would normally place a heater dead middle of the room.

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    Coldest area of the room

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I have 25k btu propane heater in there already

    http://www.mrheater.com/productdetails_extended.asp?catid=50&id=40

    what I've decided to do is stick with that and use the kerosene heater only when needed. There's just one problem I'd like to take care of, I wish to place the propane heater at a new spot but this means that the heat when rising above the heater will unfortunately heat up the seams where the sheet-rocked ceiling is joined, is there any heat resistant ceiling material I can place over the seams to prevent the seams from coming apart?

  • baymee
    16 years ago

    92% of the things people worry about, never come true. The seams are one of them.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I have to do a lot of work just to shift around the heater simply becuase the position where I have it right now didn't work as expected last winter and I don't understand why. Here's the scoop, the previous winter I had the heater mounted in the middle of the side wall and this was working nice, I then decided to use a 100lb tank and I was told by the Mr. Heater Corp. that I should not use too long a run of hose so I moved the heater close to the other side wall where the big tank was located and it never worked good, the heater was mounted on the back wall about 12" away from that side wall so I am hoping that maybe the heater needs to be placed dead middle of the back wall to work efficiently, because of this I have to move my fridge and other shelves elsewhere. I truly hope that this new placement of the heater will make all the difference. What do you guys think?

  • kalining
    16 years ago

    Now you are getting into the properties of propane and
    pipe sizing. How big is your supply line to your heaters ?
    EX. If your pipe is 12 feet long and your total B.T.U. is
    50K. your pipe size HAS to be 1/2 inch.( O.D.) It changes at 10 ft. If your using a rubber hose from an old BBQ. it is too small. If your using a fixed regulator from an old BBQ it won't work either unless the BBQ was 50K BTU and up. You still might want to consider some insulation somewhere.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I am using two 5'metal flex hoses to go from the tank to the heater right now. I think those yellow hoses which I got from Home Depot are 3/4". I am using the reocmmended regulator for this heater. Remember that my problem here is not that the heater is not working properly, it just did not work efficiently with the new "placement" last year, the year before it worked fine when I had it in the middle of the side wall, since I had the exact same uquipment for both placements, this suggests that this is a placement issue more than anything else I think?

  • kalining
    16 years ago

    You will just have to move the heaters around until you
    feel comfortable. you seem to have everything under control. Play a few tunes for me. I wouldn't object if you
    had a few beers for me either. ABBA, old beatles, Kiss, Buddy Holly. Elvis. works for me. Have a good time.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Abba and Beatles, definitely and regularly, the rest, sometimes. Yeah, I will be shifting around the shelves and refrigerator on Saturday but I will call Mr. Heater tomorow to confirm something before placing the heater in the middle of the back wall, I am wondering now if the best spot for the heater is on the side wall where I had it 2 years ago when it worked better? Reason being, if you take a look at this pic from their ad

    http://www.mrheater.com/productdetails_extended.asp?catid=50&id=40

    you will notice that the heater is mounted more or less like I had it, in the middle of the room and on the side wall and NOT the back wall, I am wondering if this is just coincidence or the heater is best placed on the side wall just like in the pic? I did some checking and every ad I've ever seen for these types of heaters, ALL of them showed the heater on the side wall, now this changes things drastically if they tell me that the unit would work best if placed the side wall where I previously had it because now I will have to consider piping to the large tank situated outside the garage, will post back here tomorow after I talk to them.

  • mikehende
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    ok, now I am closing in on this topic, just spoke with a tech from Mr. Heater, he said the heater will function properly when mounted in the "middle" of "any" wall so my new placement on the back wall will be just as good as where I had it 2 years ago on the side wall. With the addition of the kerosene heater placed at the coldest spot [right in front of the Garage door] only on very cold days, I should have this covered now.

    Just one final issue please guys, right now, I have the 10' metal flex 3/4" hose going from the heater through the Garage wall straight to the 100lb propane tank, the flex hose is connected to the regulator which is directly connected to the tank. I am being told that I need to hard-pipe the connection from the outside wall to the tank becuase the regular "rubber" hose might deteriorate due the weather elements oustide, now this is for proper "coding" purposes.

    My take is that since I am using metal hose and not rubber, then this should be ok? What's your take on this guys?

  • vicmb
    15 years ago

    I think you should have gone with a wood stove, your garage is ideal for that,brick walls, small size, and no insulation up top.
    I have 25'x22'x8' garage with only insulated walls and lots draft from my big garage door. I use 30"x17"x20" wood stove and within 40 mins I can work very comfi and it gets better as time passes.
    I installed my chimney by myself and found it very easy to do if you are handy with a miter or skill saw and own a drill.
    It was my first installation and hardly any challange to it.
    I wouldn't consider any other type of heating in my garage.
    Used wood stoves are cheap and easy to find.You don't need to spend more than a 100-150 for a good used one.
    The chimney, you buy as a kit ,which will give eveything you need to install it up to code.
    The most important part is building a frame for the chimney support. The rest is just putting stuff together.
    The basics of operating "safely" a wood stove is something you learn in a week and in time you will get better and become real good at it.
    You should install a damper in your stove pipe, for better use of the heat produced by the stove and a fan behind the stove will help you alot.
    If you or anyone else need more info just ask.

    Vic

  • BradSmith
    13 years ago

    I have a 30' x 40' metal building workshop. I use a wood burning stove to heat it. I placed the stove off to one corner so it would be out of the way. I recently added some fans to help distribute the heat.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Circulating heat from a wood burning stove

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