april

several questions.

what size is existing system? is natural gas available?
how large is your townhouse? what are your complaints with existing system? be specific.

these are the minimum specs one should consider in a new HP system.

15 SEER, 12.5 EER, 9 HSPF
best matching var speed air handler
r410a refrigerant(Puron)
new refrigerant lineset
scroll compressor
electronic demand defrost
staged backup heat strips
thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature

recommend ductwork be inspected, insulation qualities of townhouse be inspected, load calculation be performed

how many returns do you have?

post back. I can make some recommendations if you like.

you do want a new system that meets qualifying standard for fed govt tax credit of up to $1500.

IMO

April,

Are you near the inner harbor area? The water in that area can eat up an outside unit over 20 years old.

It sounds like no one has checked the unit to see what the problem is and are suggesting you to replace it (maybe they saw a deteriorated condensing unit and went no further). From the BGE quote you gave, you have been heating with your backup heating source (probably electric backup). The unit is old enough to suggest replacement and if the right unit is installed, will lower your BGE bill substantially. For the greater Balt. area, the price sounds about par however to make sure you get the right stuff, you should certainly follow TigerDunes lead.

Thanks Tiger and Irisman for responding. You asked me more questions than the two technicians who came by. My townhouse is actually in Baltimore County. 1500 sq ft. Built in 1987. The HP is the original one and has never been replaced that I know of. I purchased this HUD home in 2004. My basement is unfinished so I can see the ductwork. In some spots the outter covering is hanging/coming off, and you can actually see the insulation. Im not sure what brand of HP I have now, but the labe says BDP Company Division of Carrier Corp, Model #517EN030015. It doesnt have the SEER on it, nor on the outside unit. I guess in the long run it would be better to replace it, however, I just don't feel comfortable with the 2 people that Ive spoken to. I felt they should have done more testing, and explaining why I need a new unit. They should also have explained what installation consists of. Instead, the one Tech just recommended a 2 Ton York,with a 13 SEER rating.
And yes Tiger, please give recommendations or followups. Thanks again. Im a little less stressed now. Ive learned more about HP over the internet than the 2 techs.

What are returns?

april

from the info provided, it appears you have a 2 1/2 ton HP system. this should be verified by a dealer.

previously, I asked you about problems with existing system. please be specific. any hot/cold spots in cooling and heating mode?

you have a question about return(s). a ductwork system has supplies which carry the conditioned air to each room as well as a return(s) which recirculates the air back to the furnace or air handler. Returns are important to good airflow movement which contributes to home's comfort. Supply air and return air should be in balance. Usually supply and return ductwork are sized for 400 CFMs/ton of conditioned air. so using a 2 1/2 ton system as an example, you would need ductwork sized to move about 1000-1100 CFMs of air both supply and return. Good ductwork systems are often an overlooked area in residential HVAC.

here are several systems that I would recommend. both qualify for the tax credit of up to $1500.

American Standard(same available from Trane XL15i)

1382161 Active Systems HERITAGE 15 AMERICAN STANDARD, INC. 4A6H5030A1 4TEE3F39A1 30000 13.00 15.75 30000 9.00 18000

Carrier Performance 15 "H" mdl (same available from Bryant Preferred 15 "H" mdl)

1169029 Active Systems PERFORMANCE 15 PURON HP CARRIER AIR CONDITIONING 25HPA530H30 FV4BN(B,F)005 30000 13.00 16.00 28800 9.20 17700

IMO
Good Luck!

"In the winter I turn the thermostat to 80 degrees practically all day long."

- Wow. No wonder why you pay $420/month utility bills for a town house.

Yes 80 degrees is a little exhorbitant, unless the t-stat is goofy. What temp does a thermometer show it actually is.

With the t-stat set high and when its cold like below 45 degrees your heat pump cant get enough heat, so it operates on electric strip heaters for the heat needed, they look just like the innards of your toaster. When they go on the electric meter spins big time. If you have natural gas in the home, it would be better to go with a straight cool AC/gas furnace.
Also as to sizing....don't replace with 2.5 ton cooling if the old unit wasn't doing the job adequately. Did it seem to run forever? Did it run very shortly and the home feel clammy?