You don't have a heat pump like I have which does both heating and cooling so I would think it's independent. SEER is a measure of cooling efficiency and if you live in a hot climate then a higher SEER (up to a point) is better. There is a chart that most mfrers provide, or you can probably find it on the web somewhere that shows you (estimate) how many additional dollars can be saved per KWH used for each additional SEER. For the A/C unit I would think 13 SEER would be fine. Also there is a new standard beginning 2006 that requires 13 SEER to be the minimum. I don't know anything about gas furnaces but I would think if it's running leave it alone. I had a rusty old Amana heat pump that I never had serviced regularly that was cooling OK, but when the guys put the outside unit in, they didn't change the inside unit which houses the coil. That started to leak after some 20+ years of service so I got rid of both.

just purchased installation of Goodman 3.5 ton, 13seer heat/ac unit plus 3 new duct runs and moving of exterior unit for $4300. HD price for 3 ton Trane was $6700. Cool Ray price for 3.5 ton Trane was $6850. what a huge difference!

Looking to purchase a Goodman unit from a reputable installer in SC. Area to be cooled is approx. 2100 sq ft and they are looking to install a 2.5 ton unit. Online calculators I have tried to use show anywhere from a 2 ton to 4.4 ton (assuming it would be rounded to a 5 ton). Does anyone know of a good rule of thumb or online calculator (as a sanity check)? Thanks!

There is no rule of thumb if you are a respectible company.
Do a google-"hvac cal". This will lead you to a load calculation program you can use for $50.00- once.

I kinda like Rheem, but today I got a rude awakening. I was asked to clean the outdoor coils of 2 systems. Cottonwood had coated the coils. The case was almost against the fence and the other unit with about 2.5 inches of clearance. I opened the first unit, and found the inside coated with the cottonwood. I washed the coil as best as possible, and decided to try and do a better job. The outside louvers were in the way, but I decided to warp them away fron the coil to attempt to clean the coil. I ended up standing inside of the coil area. I cleaned on the unit for about 1 hour before feeling that I had done the best I could do.

The second unit had a blanket of cottonwood on the outer side of the coil. The sides would not warp out of the way, so I used my specially made cleaning wand to attempt to clen as much as possible. I only cleaned 3 sides to my satisfaction. The front side was impossible to clean. I needed to remove the system to an open area then clean the coil. I told my boss of the problem (His Units), he was concerned, but satisfied that I did my best. The second unit had so much cottonwood on the coil areas, that I scooped up full handfulls on the one exposed side(compressor side) The other 2 sides were only washed. I warped the louvers away and washed as good as possible, but I felt the cleaning was a sorry attempt. The third side was only washed from the inside of the coil. I had good pressures so I was happy with what I did.

What I decided was to increase all coil cleanings of units with louvers to $100. I am normally a cheap trick, but when I spend over 1 hour to kinda wash the system, and need to spend another hour, this is not right that I leave the job half assed. To do the job right needs more time.

I did a couple of TRANES with louvered sides. They took about 2.5 hours. I felt the effort was needed, but the customer was angry that I spent so long. (Or so he seemed to be) I lost a customer from that cleaning.

When I can scoop 4 handfulls of wet cottonwood from one side, there needs to be a better solution.

Because of the rebate offer I spoke with two salesmen today one from Lennox and the other sold Goodman or Amana. What a shock for a 4 ton. 13 yrs ago we bough a Rheam 10 seer I think for $3k and it's still working great.

I'm not seeing a great el/gas great savings to buy a 15 seer for $7k to 9K. 13 seer runs about $6-7K. I think the rebate would be about $300 and only on a 15 seer.

I know it's no gty but the one fellow said about 25% saving on 13 Seer and 40% on the 15 seer on electric. This is Las Vegas, July bill can be $250-$300 for 2000 sq ft house and the rate will go up soon.

After reading the board I think I will check into a Goodman and Rheam (because I've had no problems with it)and if it needs to be replaced I've got info in hand.

This forum has been so much help. Thanks

Cottonwood Fluff can be Carefully burned off with your torch.

Pro's do it all the time. I'd practice on a dead unit but they say
it's the best way and does no damage.

HTH
Chris

tommyd66 said "I have been a member to this garden web for a few years. I live in Amarillo Texas. I purchased a Goodman 14 seer AC and their 93% gas furnace two years ago. The "Carrier" company that installed it as a side job said it was one of the best constructed units they saw. The parts are all GE, the compressor is Copeland Scroll, which is insulated with a blanket. So the only actual thing that the company makes is the housing, which has the hail flanges. Stop degrading the company that is bringing us affordable comfort. They are no longer the janitrol of old"

I bought the same exact thing - A dual stage 60K/90K Furnace and a 3.5 ton 14 SEER air conditioner. Cost me less than $3500 for the whole shootin' match and I installed it myslef - Paid $125 to have my installation inspected and the A/C charged

I could have paid $8K to $9K for a Trane or Lennox installation and maybe it would outlast my Goodman . . . . maybe not

I'm very happy with my units, my installation, the comfort in my house snd the energy bills so far - Check back with me in 10 to 15 years and I may have another opinion, but for $3500, I'm VERY happy so far

Don

Trane is just too pretty.

Here is a link that might be useful:

Don21:

We are in a similar boat. Just replaced a 7 SEER, 3-ton, 21 year-old Trane heat pump with a 14 SEER Goodman system. Got a Copeland scroll compressor, TXV/TEV on indoor coil, hard start cap, strip heat back-up, from a local supply house on my own. Paid a pro to install it. Got a 10 year warranty on parts with the pro-install. Saved $2K over xxxx brands. Paid off trip to Italy with the cash saved.

Good luck and take care.

Well, based on my experiance, I WON'T be getting another Goodman -- sorry. I overpaid Sears about 6K to intall a Goodman 12 SEER heatpump unit back on Jan 2001. Not it's dead, the condensor coil developed leaks in several places and is not covered by the Sears 10 year warranty. I'm inclined to believe it's a faulty product and not the installation. It was running along side a RUUD unit that has been running strong for 9 years. What does THAT tell you??

Wade:

What good is the Sears 10 year warranty if it doesn't cover major parts such as the compressor, evap coil, or condensor coil? What is covered by the 10 year Sears warranty? Usually the parts listed above but not labor. Goodman now warrants parts for 10 years on new units sold.

Gary,
Not much good at all I suppose. The Sears 10 year parts warranty provided with my Goodman unit covers about every part EXCEPT the condensor and evap coils (unlike other mfg warranties). I've requested Sears's response on this.

I'm sure newer Goodman's are improved with better warranties, but I'm personally not going to take another multi-thousand dollar chance on another Goodman unit.

Wade:

I think that Sears is full of sh%t. Do you have a copy of the warranty?

Are you going to replace the coil on the outside unit? If so, make sure that they match it to the inside coil.

If you cannot get the coil replaced under warranty, and you want to compare the price of just the coil itself, you can call DESCO at 717-846-3384 (Sears should be able to get it cheaper but who knows). DESCO is a contractor that sells Goodman to the public. You will need the model# from the outside unit when you call. A new Goodman 13 SEER, 3 ton, outside unit costs about $1300 from DESCO, plus shipping. I'm not sure if they still have 12 SEER coils/units. If Sears isn't going to do warranty work, then you can call other HVAC contractors for quotes and see how they compare.

Good luck to you.

Gary,
I do have a copy of the Sears warranty, I can PM it to you if you wish. However, I think you are the only person on my side. I called Sears and they told me they only warranty the Kenmore brand and not Goodman. The funny thing is that Sears sold me the Goodman unit as a Kenmore product and the warranty has Sears and Kenmore written all over it! I got the feeling they were just trying to get me off the phone as fast as possible. I just contacted Goodman today see what they can do...
The repairman (from Sears) said that they cannot replace the coil. According to him, a new EPA law stats the if the unit has leaked more than 30% of the old style refrigerant, then it has to be replaced completely with a new unit. Is this true??
I appreciate the DESCO contacts, I will try that.

But the lessons I learned (for me personally that is):
1. Avoid buying a Goodman or Goodman sourced unit - as of now unless something changes.
2. Read the warranty very carefully and ask questions before you buy.
3. Don't use Sears HomeCentral services ever again!

I want go "on the record" and temper my feelings about Goodman and give them some credit. I did contact Goodman directly was told that the condensor coil IS covered by a 10 year parts only warranty - despite what Sears said. But, I also found out that there were other problems with my system. Sears evidently installed a 10 SEER evaporator with my 12 SEER condensor, and it appeared that the evaporator unit was damaged (by a drop?) before the install. So basically I was only getting 10 SEER efficiency at most and unit failure may have been accelerated by the bad install -- who knows? I'm shopping for a new unit - and more importantly - a reputable installer. FWIW, two out of three HVAC sales guys I talked to so far recommended a Trane. My main requirements were quality and longevity, warranty. The last one recommended a Trane or Lennox, with Lennox offering the "better deal" to him. Only one of the three had positive things to say about Goodman - BUT THIS IS BY NO MEANS A SCIENTIFIC CONCLUSION.

Wade:

If you have a mixed SEER system from the start, no matter which mfr (Trane, Goodman, Lennox, Carrier), problems will be inevitable - it's not just a bad install, it's a bad decision to put a lower rated evap coil with a higher outside unit. The reverse is sometimes done but not the way you have it. Don't blame it on Goodman, blame it on the installer - Sears. Plus they tried to cover their a$$es after they realized their mistake. Good for you for contacting the mfr directly.

As far as which system to get now, it's not the mfr but the best installed price of a good matched system. American Standard makes Trane, Carrier makes Bryant, Rheem and Ruud are the same, Lennox makes Ducane, Goodman makes Amana and Janitrol, there is York, etc. There are also still sub-brands of the above. Don't necessarily write off Goodman because of a bad Sears job.

Best of luck.

I have an ancient York system that needs to be replaced. I recieved several quotes and am torn between a Goodman and a Trane. There is a $600 price difference. I don't use my AC much here in Michigan. Any comments between the two?

Just for information.
Trane build their own coils- inside and out.
Trane builds their own compressors.
Trane builds the entire systems.
They do use parts such as motors, reversing valves, contactors, capacitors etc from other manufacturers which specialize in those components.
If a compressor fails, they want to know why and take it back to the factory and disassemble it to determain why and if it's the installing companies fault- they buy it.
Goodman spends a lot on advertizing- not to the public, but to the contractors, trying to get them to buy their products by giving away or discounting freon, tools etc. They are in every refrigerant magazine and book 5 times and send mailers out twice a month to hundreds of thousands of contractors ( I get them twice a month at least). They raised their prices to cover the new warranties. They have improved some, but have a ways to go to convince me to ever sell them.
Goodman will not out last AND outperform top equipment as it ages.
Goodman's are cheaper because the materials and manufacturing techniques are cheaper. You simply can't build top quality and sell it 30% cheaper than other top quality equipment. Selling more means nothing. If a car was built and sold for $5,000.00 new, you can bet they would sell more cars than anyone else in the country- but it would be still be a 5k car and you'll replace it after two or three years.
Goodman is a good enough system for a good enough price.
________________________________________________________

jsioui- If your only getting an 16 degree air split- the system is not working.
The static psi needs checking, the freon psi needs evaluating, and the system match should be re-checked. There is something wrong and the right tech can find it with the right tools.

FWIW: I've been using Goodman straight AC systems in rental properties for years. No problems at all.

So I decide to install a variable speed 14SEER heat pump system in my own home. The evaporator came with several bad welds in the U tubes. These were so bad that it could be heard hissing from 10' away when the installer started putting the nitrogen to it. No way this coil was tested or inspected. Since then I've heard of two more bad evaps in new Goodman air handlers with the exact same problems... and that is just in my particular county way down here on the gulf coast. Apparently they have a blind welder and an inspector who is pencil-whipping his inspections. Or maybe they're hiring the handicapped and got themselves an inspector who is not only blind but deaf as well.

I also know of a scroll compressor in a Goodman that recently went out after being in service for three weeks.

I had a very bad experience with SEARS. They lied about installation then took my $500 check and promised to cash it only after the job is completed, yet they cashed my $500 check right away and I never heard from SEARS again for 2 months, no one ever showed up to install even after I remined them over the phone until I finally after 2 months of nothingness found SEARS vice-president and told him my opinion about SEARS, then he overnighted $500 to me... SEARS? Never again.

Now a question: my house in mid-SC is about 2500 sq. ft. probably rather 2300-2400 sq. ft. The Carrier A/C 4 ton 12 SEER unit was installed in 1991 and runs w/o trouble till now (2007) but I decided to go with heat pump and I was offered the only option: GOODMAN 4 TON, but I began doubting the size of it. Does a 2400 sq. ft. brick house in mid SC need a 4 ton unit or rather a 5 ton unit?

Get a contractor to do a calculation (it's called a Manual J). I'm in upper SC too, have about the same sq ft, but 2 story and have 4 1/2 ton in two units, but you can't go by that. Generally if a certain tonnage has worked well in the past then that is good to go with. If you like Carrier take a look at their Infinity series.

The ductwork has to be sized to handle 5 tons.

I have the following 4 issues that I hope to get opinions and suggestions on:

1. I'm being offered a GOODMAN 4 ton (ok) 14 SEER (very nice) heat pump with R-22 refrigerant (problem?) which damages ozone layer AFAIK and which seems to be going universally banned on Jan. 1, 2015. Should I rather get a unit with R-410A (Puron) refrigerant? Are some folks still buying systems with R-22 refrigerant?

2. The contractor, after I asked him about Manual J, he told me he installed the existing A/C unit there the unit's been there for many years and he says I should go with 4 ton system (just as the existing 4 ton A/C is) and he seems not willing to do the Manual J although he's been in business for several decades. Is Manual J very important or almost like mandatory for every installer or is it usual that a heat pump contractor does not do the Manual J?

3. Pricing issue: the split Goodman 4 ton 14 seer system seems to cost around $2000 ranging from $1800 to $2600 on the internet. The quote I got is $5500 connecting to the existing ductwork. Do you think it is a fair price to pay, on a low side, on a high side or normal? I was wondering if equipment (split unit: condensing unit and air handler) costs say $2500 including thermostat etc. then they charge $3000 for a few hours to one day's work? Is that high or normal?

4. Variable speed motor blower: my contractor says he's not really favoring it since it blows often at low speed and does not deliver much air into the house. Is that true? Would you go with regular multiple speed or rather a variable speed motor blower?

5. Gas (propane) furnace is in my storm cellar basement. It's been there for many years. Is it ok by SC code to have a gas/propane furnace in a basement/cellar?

Thanks in advance and for your past opinions and suggestions.

Wow.

Neonrider, I'm going to seperate the facts from fiction and opinion. You'll get all 3, separatetly.

"1. I'm being offered a GOODMAN 4 ton (ok) 14 SEER (very nice) heat pump with R-22 refrigerant (problem?) which damages ozone layer AFAIK and which seems to be going universally banned on Jan. 1, 2015. Should I rather get a unit with R-410A (Puron) refrigerant? Are some folks still buying systems with R-22 refrigerant?"

- As an owner of this system, I can comment as follows: The GSH14 series Goodman's have a Copeland scroll compressor (industry preferred), 10 year parts warranty, and put out 12 EER and 14 SEER, excellent numbers for operating efficiency and energy savings. R22 should not be a deciding factor, only a contributing factor. It will be around for many years and is a problem only if it leaks. It may get more expensive in the future. I put the exact same R22 unit, 3 ton heat pump, in June '07.

"..which damages ozone layer AFAIK"

- I have no idea what this means or what you are talking about.

"2. The contractor, after I asked him about Manual J, he told me he installed the existing A/C unit there the unit's been there for many years and he says I should go with 4 ton system (just as the existing 4 ton A/C is) and he seems not willing to do the Manual J although he's been in business for several decades. Is Manual J very important or almost like mandatory for every installer or is it usual that a heat pump contractor does not do the Manual J?"

- Most contractors do not do a Manual J. Ductwork inspection is critical, both for sizing and leakage of supply/returns. I was OK with my present 3-ton, so I replaced with the same.

"3. Pricing issue: the split Goodman 4 ton 14 seer system seems to cost around $2000 ranging from $1800 to $2600 on the internet. The quote I got is $5500 connecting to the existing ductwork. Do you think it is a fair price to pay, on a low side, on a high side or normal? I was wondering if equipment (split unit: condensing unit and air handler) costs say $2500 including thermostat etc. then they charge $3000 for a few hours to one day's work? Is that high or normal?"

- Internet pricing is one thing, install of an HVAC system by a pro is another. A quality install is essential. HVAC suppliers can have a 300% mark-up in parts plus labor to stay in business. Remember also that the air plenum duct section and air handler discharge duct (2 pieces) have to be fabricated by a sheet metal shop for your install. Refrigerant lines may be need to be replaced, cleaned, purged, brazed, and charged. Also, proper electrical cables and breaker box should be replaced/installed. Buying HVAC by yourself on the internet and having a pro to install separately is challenging (and not recommended), but it can be done. Pros don't like to install sytems that they didn't buy from a wholesaler - no profit plus no trust in the source. You will get no installation labor from the installer. Goodman does not warrant internet purchases - check their website www.Goodman.Mfg.com. You can try to negotiate the install price from a contractor if you have an idea of his purchase price of $2500.

"4. Variable speed motor blower: my contractor says he's not really favoring it since it blows often at low speed and does not deliver much air into the house. Is that true? Would you go with regular multiple speed or rather a variable speed motor blower?"

- This is a personal choice. V/S blowers have a lot of advantages: quiet, efficient, adjust to ductwork condition, cheap to run, better humidity control in a/c mode, adds 1 more SEER point to air handler. Cons: more complicated electronics, expensive to replace after 10 year warranty period. I went with the 3 speed, not v-s. My choice.

I would add the following advice to you:

- Get the optional thermostatic expansion valve (TXV), which regulates refrigerant flow to the evap coil. It will provide the highest SEER in a/c mode at all times. Best $50 that you will spend. It is installed in the liquid refrigerant line outside of the air handler.

- Goodman's filter rack for the 1-inch air filter in the air handler is poorly designed. I have to rip out the old filter to replace it. Get a separate 4" media filter to avoid this problem.

Good luck

AFAIK - As far as I know. C'mon man, you've got to get up on Text language :-) (Don't feel bad, I had to google it).

"AFAIK - As far as I know. C'mon man, you've got to get up on Text language :-) (Don't feel bad, I had to google it)."

- Thank you. I don't text. I hate cell phones.

Take care.

I have a self contained external Goodman unit. No internal blower unit, just duct work under the house leading to and from the outside unit.

It has been trouble free since it was installed in 2001.

The most painful part is the HVAC service guys that show up to do the yearly maintenance. I have had some real yo-yo's show up that looked like they just started that day and didn't have a clue. That scares me way more.

I think a good service man is worth their weight in freon or whatever they use these days.

I'm aorry, I made a mistake in the date. We moved in to the house in 2000. This probably makes more sense, but 7 coils in 8 years is still strange. We know it's the coils, not just a guess, because we see them when they have taken them out of the house. Any other ideas on what could be causing this? Sure do appreciate any answers!!!

hi everyone,
I have been installing goodman a/c equipment for close to 25 years and have had very few warranty related issues. Usally a defective board or as of recently defective China made capacitors that either loose their capacitance or blow. I usally replace them with 440 volt capacitors and the problem is solved. I have serviced many rheem and carrier a/c systoms and have found many to have leaking A or slant coils. The cost of new coils for those brands if available is almost as high as a new air handler. Goodman a-coils are still reasonably priced.I worry that when the 2010 mandate comes in and all that is available are r-410a systems it will be a nightmare for service techs. All modern a-coils have very thin wall copper a-coils in them and as the temp drops on them and the copper contracts at 120-150psi compared to 70 to 80 psi on r-22 systems their will be many more leaks produced then compared to r-22 a-coils. I have personally noticed that compressor failures on R-410a systoms are very common compared to r-22 systoms which are rare to almost never. My 2 cents worth

One more Recommendation...If considering a new Goodman condensing unit go the 14 seer route for about $100-200 dollars more depending on size. Why, for 2 reasons, 1) it is more more efficent then a 13 seer unit. 2)It will come with a copeland scroll compressor in it and to me it is almost bullet proof and much quieter than a piston compressor. Copeland is the king when it comes to compressors...PERIOD

Great timing! Can't seem to pull the trigger on a Goodman 14 seer, 4 ton unit AC. I need to have all of the ductwork installed as well. I have been considering a ruud / rheem due to the number of negative Goodman posts. Just a few hundred dollars difference beween the Goodman and Ruud units. The refrigerant question is making me stumble as well R22 or R410? Any further advice on it? I have a/c wall units now and the sound of them are annoying. The air handler on the central air will be located in the attic right in the hallway above the bedrooms. I need to make sure the air handler is quiet -- no annoying whining please! Any further advice is appreciated. The house is a ranch style, no basement. Thanks.

Molly, go with the R410. However, some things to consider. Not sure how old your A-coil is, but you'll probably have to replace it, assuming your current unit is R22. Your copper line-set from condenser thru house to a-coil may have to be replaced if going with r410. If the lines are 3/8in, 3/4in, or 7/8in, then the lines can be flushed and reused with the r410. If you go with the r22 and have a leak like 5 yrs from now, it will cost you a fortune just for the r22 gas. Do your research and ask plenty of questions. In the long term, the r410a will probably be your best bet, unless you're not planning on living there for many years.

Hi guys,
Our house was finished in Nov. and with the recent hot weather we used th a/c only to find out one of the units wasn't cooling. Serviceman wrote the following on the work order,"A/C needs new compressor/capacitor and shrader valve stem due to R22 leak from bad valve stem." For those of you knowledgable about such things, is replacing these components sufficient or since this is a new unit should it be replaced? Thanks for the help

I would have thought the low pressure switch (lack of refrigerant) would have tripped out the compressor before it failed. I would ask why it didn't.

I would also get a new condenser (outside unit). Easier to replace than cutting out an old compressor plus better for you to start with a new condenser. Make sure they flush out the refrigerant lines properly and install a new filter/drier in the small line at the condenser (cleans the junk in the line from the compressor blow-out).

Good luck.

Thank you so much, garyg. I appreciate the response and will call them back in the morning.

Amy

Anyone living in a hot climate area should include a heat recovery unit on their AC system. Allows using a 13 SEER AC and still get efficiency in the SEER 20 range when you put the free hot water savings into the equation....

Hi, I have a question. I have a 2000 sqf house and putting new AC. I was quoted for 3.5t outside unit and 4t coil(inside). Now guy saying that if he put 3t outside and 5t coil it will actually be better. Any advise which combination will be better for me? There is a vaulted sealing on first floor (about 50%).

Thanks.

"Now guy saying that if he put 3t outside and 5t coil it will actually be better."

You need to start a new post.

NFW on the 3-ton condenser and 5-ton evap unless it's an ARI-rated match. Ask him for the ARI# for that combo. No ARI#, get another contractor.

Good luck.

I think we made a mistake? Our 20 yr old heat pump failed in Jan. We just installed a Goodman (Amana)3.5 ton split system in our 1540sf single story home. The new ac ran all day yesterday, the first day of installation, yet the home never cooled below 75deg (outside high temp range 93-100, 10-14% humidity)? Installer said: thermostat needed to "seat in, and the core temp of home needed to cool down."

AC ran all day again today, yet could never get below 74 deg (outside high temp range 97-102, same humidity). The old Rheem 2.5 ton heat pump did just as good as new unit, which comes as a surprise to me? Isn't this new unit supposed to be more efficient?

I have lived in several homes in this area over the last 25 years, and none of the ac units have run constantly. My last home, 1630 sf, had a 3 ton unit, yet the ac would only cycles on for 15-20 minutes, and cycles off for 15-20 min, easily keeping 68-72 deg. If I turned the thermostat lower, the house would get colder. I don't know how low it would go, but mid 60s easily, possibly high 50s?

After reading this board, it appears we have made some mistakes, like choosing a unit that has r-12, or at least I think it does? It also appears we made a mistake by not choosing the 14seer over the 13seer, so to get the better, quieter "scroll" compressor? Maybe we bought the wrong brand of equipment?

We are worried now, that this supposedly more efficient unit (as compared to low seer value of the old equipment) will be too costly to run if it is necessary to run it all day to achieve a reasonable, but not great level of cooling?

Did we buy junk?

East of Sacramento, near Folsom, CA

Goodman has had a problem with its 5 ton heat pump beeing shipped with wrong txv installed for unit size. I also have recently had to replace a compressor in a goodman due to short to ground and the replacement compressor failed within one week of operation also shorted to ground. This is not goodmans fault however as compressors are a part prvided by a manufacturer and installed in all brands. you can find copeland comps in trane, goodman, amana, carrier,etc..... overall Goodman has been a reliable low end unit, minor problems with contactors, dual caps and the ever present dirty filter and coils do to lack of service.

I appreciate all of the great info. Can you tell me how to determine if it's a good installer or not? There seems to be about a 100 to choose from in my town. Maybe a few questions I can ask to determine if they do quality work? I can check the BBB but I figure usually even a bad install would last a year or two. Thanks.

I think if you have read all these messages you would come to the conclusion
that the differences is more in the install than the equipment. I use goodman
equipment, but i sell myself not the equipment. Go with the dealer you like and one that has a good rep. Later paulbm

I have a Goodman air conditioner in a new build home 5 years old. We have had nothing but problem with this unit, and 2 major repairs, leakey valvue and leakey coils.
Goodman waranty paid for parts, but we have paid out $800 in labor so far. You all need to know Goodman will not cover labor and that is the expensive part. I think both or installer from Air Serv, and Goodman are to blame, and neither will answer me. They both get an F raiting from me.

Just had my Goodman installed today on my trusted A/C repair guy's recommendation for something in my budget. So far, so good; but I just got it. I wanted to post this thought: The A/C I was replacing was an Amana, purchased in 2003, $5,000 including an "April Aire" air filtration system. It was actually too big, they told me, than what I needed for my 1300 s.f., but it was the best quote for the best system at the time. Cooled this house like a meat locker. I thought I was set. Then, July 3rd, lightning struck it and it was toast. So much for going for the gold. This time I'm going for Goodman.

CLEANING of the coils and any openings that air was meant to flow through is THE most important maintenance task and the major reason for lack of performance/defects.Yes there are a small percentage of failures in any mass produced product,and the more electronic options added are more opportunities for failure.As for who manufactures what...if you really want to know - check the Consumer Product Safety Commission for recall lists.According to release#04-229(Sep.30,2004) Goodman produces items for Amana,Trane,American Standard...

Thanks for all the information on how to make the AC run better. I will try cleaning out my coils and see if that helps. I can't afford another AC bill that was as high as my last one.
http://www.aabsoluteplumbing.com/service-essex-county.nxg

Wow, Tigerdunes has been here giving information for 10 years or more! Good job, Tigerdunes!

Heh!

Well I'll join in. We replaced an old 8 seer heat pump system with a 13 seer Goodman system and in the process we uncovered several shoddy duct work configurations made by the builder/contractor.

We found the main return was half the size it should be, and the output ducting also had choke places in it with turns that really acted ad restriction baffles! They "Made" It FIT!

We straightened all that out and WoW! Not only are all the rooms within 1/2°F of each other, my power bill is 65% Lower!

Worth EVERY penny. She was a 20year old leaking poorly installed Bryant.

Very quiet system. The little wall section was to bounce noise away from our deck located to the right. Its not needed now and is basically a cosmetic device blocking it from view from the deck. It bullet proofs any fan noise that might be heard otherwise.
My bedroom window is above it and its a non-issue.
We poured the slab and decided to use the old fiberglass base as well.

So..... look at the ducting also. The house was built well by a reputable builder but the HVAC guy got one past him.