Quote #1 (1st contractor) $6500
• Furnish and install a 2 ½ ton 15 SEER, R–410, Carrier Performance Series Heat Pump unit
Model # 25HPA530A003
• Furnish and install a 2 ½ ton variable speed Air Handler Unit Carrier Performance Series
Model # FV4BNF003T00
• Furnish and install a 10kw electrical heater
• Furnish and install 35ft 3/8 x 3/4 refrigerant line set
• Furnish and install 8000 series Honeywell Thermostat
• Furnish and install heat pump unit pad and a 30 amp electrical disconnect box
• Install any miscellaneous wires, parts, accessories and duct work modifications,
and reconnect any electrical piping
• Perform system startup, check for optimum system performance
• Remove old parts and equipment from property
10yr warranty on parts & 5yr warranty on labor and parts (the 5 year warranty is from the contractor and I believe he said I have have to pay for an annual check up to qualify).

Quote #2 (2nd contractor)$6498
- Supply and install a Bryant Preferred 15 heat pump model 265ANA024
- Supply and install a Bryant electric furnace/air handler model FV4BNF002T with a fused 10-KW strip heater.
-Supply and install Honeywell 8000 programmable thermostat
-New line set (25 foot 3/4 and 3/8 copper, bi-flow filtered line dryer)
-New 25 amp disconnect box, #10 electrical whip
-1 year parts and labor, 10 year parts, free 1 year maintenance agreement with a checkup this fall.

Quote #3 (2nd contractor)$6198
- Supply and install a Bryant Legacy 15 heat pump model 225ANA024
- Supply and install a Bryant electric furnace/air handler model FV4BNF002T with a fused 10-KW strip heater.
-Supply and install Honeywell 8000 programmable thermostat
-New line set (25 foot 3/4 and 3/8 copper, bi-flow filtered line dryer)
-New 25 amp disconnect box, #10 electrical whip
-1 year parts and labor, 10 year parts, free 1 year maintenance agreement with a checkup this fall.

Quote #4 (2nd contractor)$6998 (I'm not sure I want to spend this much)
- Supply and install a Trane XL-15I heat pump model 4TWX05024A1000A
- Supply and install a Trane electric furnace/air handler model 4TEE3F31B1 with a fused 10-KW strip heater.
-Supply and install Honeywell 8000 programmable thermostat
-New line set (25 foot 3/4 and 3/8 copper, bi-flow filtered line dryer)
-New 25 amp disconnect box, #10 electrical whip
-1 year parts and labor, 10 year on the compressor, 10 year labor on any failed Trane parts, free 1 year maintenance agreement with a checkup this fall. (I thought he verbally said 10 year parts; but, I don't see it other than the compressor.)

The second contractor said Carrier and Bryant were the same company and the equipment was interchangable. If the Bryant was out of stock, he would substitute Carrier.

The 3rd contractor was much higher priced; so, I didn't post any of his quotes.

Should I go with 2 ton or 2.5 ton units? What should be the cost difference between a 2 ton and 2.5 ton quote. What is the reputation of the equipment in the quotes?

Thanks, John

First question is how well did the 2 ton heat and cool the place. Oversizing is not good for the equipment or efficiency, but 1/2 ton should not make a huge difference either way. If the 2 ton always kept the home comfortable, I would not change size. Though 2.5 tons sounds more proper for 1800 sqft., many factors determine sizing (windows, insulation, home orientation, etc.). So, really no way to tell you what size unit to get. It's determined by a heat load/heat loss calculation on your home.

All equipment you've been quoted is good and will qualify for the $1500 tax credit.

I'm in Prince Georges County near Greenbelt.

The upper story bedrooms on the side of the townhouse that received the afternoon sun, were warmer in the summer with the 2 ton. I don't really use those rooms alot. I'm not sure I would blame the heat pump because I never tried to reduce air flow to the cooler rooms in order to balance the temperatures better.

If that does the job, I would stay away from an 'upsized' air handler, as it will reduce your latent (humidity removal) capacity.

What temperature is your stat set at? Is it colder than you would like in order to feel comfortable? That would be another reason not to upsize.

I spent about 10 months living in AA county (stationed at Ft. Meade), but don't remember what it was like, weather-wise.

Be sure to get a heat calc.

V

The warmer rooms isn't really an issue with the unit sizing, but rather inadequate airflow to those locations. Your installer may be able to install some in-duct dampers to help balance the temperatures.

It's hard to compare quotes with different sizes. I'd see if I could get all the dealers to agree on the same size. Perhaps some were not aware that the outdoor unit, despite the indoor unit, was a 2 ton.

I have a programmable thermostat. I usually keep it set around 70 degrees (both A/C and heat) when I'm home. I believe the program drops to 62 degrees for heat and raises to 78 for air conditioning from 8 AM to 5 PM during the weekdays.

There are dampers in the basement that would allow me to reduce air flow to the lower levels. I haven't worked with balancing the air flow upstairs as I usually don't use those rooms. My heat pump stopped working; so, I cannot experiment with it now.

We have humid summers where I live in Maryland.

I'm leaning toward the 2.5 ton since 2 of the 3 contractors recommended it, my original air handler is 2.5 ton, and I have an end unit townhouse.