Heat pump and maybe mini-split heat pumps. How many rooms?

Nice place; IâÂÂd install a masonry heater with a pizza oven!

SR

Here is a link that might be useful: Tulikivi Soap Stone Masonry Heaters

Burning wood is the opposite of green, it releases carbon the tree captured from the air that would stay out of the atmosphere longer if not burned. I'd try to minimize that as much as possible.

To take advantage of the cheap hydro-produced power that you've got in the Northwest, I'd beef up the heating capability. Maybe an air source heat pump or an electric furnace with exposed ducts, if you plan to spend a lot of time there? I think exposed ducts in an obviously retrofit situation are charming. Either way probably not a whole lot of money to improve what's there.

You've got a cool/damp environment there for much of the year, you'd probably be much more comfortable with a heating system that's up to the job.

"To take advantage of the cheap hydro-produced power that you've got in the Northwest, "

Unless it has changed since I lived there, the cheap electricity was due to a combination of "Hydro-produced" and "nuclear-produced."

You're on the mark as always, salti. The key thought I had for that sentence was CHEAP, not hydro. But direct-cost wise, nuclear is also cheap. Including indirects, it's hard to say

I remember your saying you were in that neighborhood when in the Navy. The link below (thanks to Google) answers your question.

90 % hydro
5 % nucular (as G. Bush would say)

Even if it were (for argument sake ) 90 % hydro and 10 % diesel engines turning generators, it would still be cheap. Compared to what I pay.

Here is a link that might be useful: San Juans power sources

I think first that you must understand your heating fuel choices and their operating costs. Next would be the building and insulation properties of the dwelling and the reasonable and cost effective prospects to improve.

Is AC needed? A HP system might be fine for moderate temps both in cooling and heating but might leave you disappointed in comfort for the more extreme heating requirements. Then you would require either supplemental heat source or perhaps a small propane furnace.

I will assume there s no existing ductwork system in place. Is it possible to add? Do you have crawl space room?

IMO

Thanks for all the replies! The house has 6 rooms total. The ceilings are rather low as it is, so adding ceiling ductwork is not an option. Also, going through the exterior stone walls is not an option, but roof and attic is a possibility. There is no existing ductwork, and no crawlspace. One of the main reasons we love the place is the quiet, so I don't want anything that will make any type of whirring (so heat pumps are not my first choice). Anyone know what my options are for radiant and/or convection heat?

What do the neighbors in newer homes and newly-remodeled homes use for heat? What are your typical and severe lows/highs? It is a Pacific coast climate so it can not be very severe.

Some mini-split heat pumps would probably work well. Some have back-up resistance heat built in, but I doubt you will need it. How many rooms do you have?

I would suggest that you look at a Rinnai Energysaver. Modulating gas valve and blower. Built in programmable t-stat with appropriate set back options for a vacation type property. Cool to the touch & quiet. Extremely durable. They do require electricity, but have a re-start feature after power outages.

I've heated my homes with them for the past 20 years. In fairness, I must also offer this disclaimer. I represented Rinnai in my business for 20 years, so bias noted.

Also, the vent requires a 3" hole through the wall somewhere. How thick are the stone walls? Is there wood frame construction somewhere in the primary living area?

Scratch a forced air system with ductwork unless attic install is available. Even if practical it would probably damage the ambiance of the cabin that you want to protect.

I will assume AC is not needed. Is this correct? How do you feel about a fireplace insert either wood fueled or even propane fueled?

I would say you will have to accept some type of minimal compromise.

IMO

AC is not needed, correct. Natural gas is not available but we could get a propane tank. I am leaning towards an EPA certified fireplace insert, but don't know how to heat the front room and kitchen, both are not very close to fireplace and currently have no supplemental electric heat. Bedrooms and bathroom are quite small, I think they will be adequately heated with baseboard heat. Ceiling in front room is very short and done with poles, great rustic character. Walls are the only exposed stone in the interior besides fireplaces and have no wiring, so adding baseboard heating is not really an option if we want to keep stone exposed. We need to re-level concrete slab -- would in-floor electric heat be effective in this application, or is it asking too much?

I hear nothing from you about insulation improvements.

How is attic insulated? How are floors insulated?

Is this not practical?

IMO

The attic is insulated, and we would likely add more there. I'm assuming the floor is not insulated and would be difficult, ceilings are already short. The kitchen needs a new ceiling, so we could possibly add heat there.

If that huge window is single-pane or does not seal well, I'd think about replacing with something more efficient.

It is probably pretty humid, but the temperature differentials are not that great so air sealing might be more important than insulation.

Generally, the trouble with putting heat in the ceiling is that it is good for heating the ceiling unless you have something to circulate the air fairly forcefully. That might mean some noise or a ceiling paddle fan. The low ceilings, however, work in your favor.

Heat pump mini-splits are quiet inside and out. Ceiling models are available. A conventional split system can be very quiet too, if designed for that. You need to find a good installer and talk it over with them. A ground-source heat pump will be quieter outside since there is no blower. You could put the equipment (compressor and pump) in a separate shed. That leaves only the air handler to deal with. I suspect that ground source will be expensive to install because even with all those rocks that were put in the walls, there are still plenty in the ground. (I used to live in a home where you decided where to plant stuff by sticking a shovel in the ground. The first place it went in without stopping on a rock was the place!)

I don't know how cold it get's there - but I'm guessing near freezing.

If you're going to use/visit the cabin in the winter it should be kept at a min of 50 degrees - otherwise you'll get a lot of condensation when you 'crank up' the heat.

I suggest hot water hydronic heat in the floor. Fill the system with glycol antifreeze. You can heat the water with any energy source you want.

How does condensation result from increasing the temperature? That is counterintuitive for me.

An uninsulated stone/masonry building is not a good deal in the winter. The difference in temps - at some temp differential + relative humidity you will have the dew point. And at that point there will be condensation.

The OP says it was built in 1950. I wonder if it has insulated glass.

May be charming in the warmer months - but not the winter.

I said, "Unless it has changed since I lived there, the cheap electricity was due to a combination of "Hydro-produced" and "nuclear-produced."

Went in a looked at the history and Washington State has seen the same massive reduction in Nuclear Power that most all other parts of the country have. When I was living there in the 1970s Nuclear Power was a large contributor to the Hydro-Electric base.

I now see there is only one operational power generating reactor in the state.

Indeed, it has changed since I lived there!

This post was edited by saltidawg on Thu, Jun 6, 13 at 17:16