I would want to see all model numbers both outside condenser and inside air handler.

New lineset to be furnished?

What thermostat was quoted? Be specific.

Any new pleated filter media cabinet quoted?

What size heat strip quoted?

I will assume ductwork is easily accessible. is it attic or crawl space located?You have adequate return now? Boots to be reused or replaced new? I am not opposed to flex for supply and return runs but prefer metal for trunk lines. R8 insulation and mastic sealed. i find the ductwork quote with related modifications absolutely absurd.

I would not pay $1100 upgrade price from XR15 to XL16i.

IMO

This post was edited by tigerdunes on Sun, May 12, 13 at 11:01

Rose,

Did those prices include the rebates? They appear "reasonable" based on the equipment quoted, but the ductwork add-on cost is high in my opinion. I strongly recommend the duct replacement/improvement if it is 25 years old and in poor condition (i.e., not well sealed if at all, falling apart, etc.). For that price, I would hope it includes sheet metal plenums and trunklines, sealed with mastic and insulated with R8 fiberglass insulation along well properly done R8 flex duct branches to the registers. It makes little sense to me to invest big bucks on equipment and combine it with an inefficient and/or improperly sized duct system. I think your approach is right to get more estimates and see where they come in to get a proper feel for the pricing in your market -- it truly does vary by area. If they are actually considerably lower (and you'd have to wonder what corners they'd be cutting), it looks like the contractor you seem to prefer is willing to work with you. I am sure you have read enough to know that finding the right installer is very critical in having a reliable, well-performing system. It sounds like you have found a good one by what you describe. I take it he/she did a load calculation based on the information they gathered and verified 3 ton is the proper size? Lastly, Trane is the right way to go in my opinion especially in an environment such as yours where the air is highly corrosive over time to the units. I visit Ocean City, MD somewhat regularly and it is very evident which units hold up better over time and still seem to be working well: Trane.

Also, some great questions to be answered as provided by TD above. There are lots of details that need to be included on the written estimate. The above is a good start.

This post was edited by ryanhughes on Sun, May 12, 13 at 11:07

Well, you certainly gave me a significant amount of questions to ask as there was no discussion on the details that your questions brought up on te duct work.

I selected three companies that had excellent ratings and reviews. This one was recommended to me but I'm not committed to him.

He did explain that they do not install metal duct work, just flex. I only have one metal duct in the attic that runs about 10 feet - everything else is flex duct and the current metal duct is not insulated.

Electric FPL Rebate of $880 on 17 seer and $375 on 15 Seer ( Both rebates he added a additional $100.

He did a load Estimate so the 3 ton is the correct size for us. We are getting a new pleated media return to replace the old one. This trane system comes with a installed UV light. I wanted one as I'm allergic to mold mildew and dust.

I was waiting to see what the price was - I probably should ask if they installed or Trane installed it.
Thanks for your input,
Rose

One has to ask why the need to replace ductwork system.

The idea that a trunk line in the attic in a home in Central Florida is not insulated is ridiculous.

I would not have a 100% flex ductwork system.

IMO

"getting white specs from Vents ��" assume it is fiberboard in current air handler system."

the answer should not be an assumption, but
based on where the white specs are comming from
& what they are.

flex isn't uncommon in La. as long as the flex is
sized properly, mastic sealed, and properly suspended
with no sharp bends or constrictions..it isn't a problem.

I'd think that the hard duct is insulated internally..or
externally or it would be dripping wet.

how will they balance air flow? are they adding
manual dampers at the supply plenum & verifying
air flow with a flow hood?

that a company will lower thier price to meet everyone
else's bid may sound great, but it makes me wonder
what corners they will cut to get this lower install
price.

not a fan of UV lights. understand they zap stuff
in the system. if the ducts, returns, plenum connections
to requipment are mastic sealed..there wil be no
stuff to zap. investing in mastic seal, and adding
a media filter would be my recommendation.
uv lights need to be changed pretty often too,
look to pay for the cost of bulbs & tech to change
them.

best of luck.

The ducts are 25 yrs old, the white specs are coming from the air Vent right on the kitchen counter and coffee tops.

Plus my allergies to dust and mold is another reason for replacement. I have had 3 sinus surgery's and now my sinuses are all open to the air quality in our house.

The metal duct that is 25 years old - is not insulated.

After looking at Flex ducts on the market today and what we have currently installed in the attic, those ducts are not UV protection and they have a thin alum. paper like consistency on the outside.

Last night I measured from the air handler to all the different vents in my house which are 16 and I came up with 262 feet and residential flex duct each one is 18 feet in length. I over esimated the footage a bit but it works out to 16 flex ducts and I based prices on 10 dia, 12 dia and 14 dia from home depot on line and I priced out a few other things too.

This first quote is going to use the current vents but will add two direct Returns to the master bedroom and the Office. I will ask about the balancing - manual dampers at the supply plenum & verifying air flow with a flow hood.

I am vey thankful for your input as with the next two salesmen coming for estimates I can ask a whole line of questions.
Rose

The ducts are 25 yrs old, the white specs are coming from the air Vent right on the kitchen counter and coffee tops.

Plus my allergies to dust and mold is another reason for replacement. I have had 3 sinus surgery's and now my sinuses are all open to the air quality in our house.

The metal duct that is 25 years old - is not insulated.

After looking at Flex ducts on the market today and what we have currently installed in the attic, those ducts are not UV protection and they have a thin alum. paper like consistency on the outside.

Last night I measured from the air handler to all the different vents in my house which are 16 and I came up with 262 feet and residential flex duct each one is 18 feet in length. I over esimated the footage a bit but it works out to 16 flex ducts and I based prices on 10 dia, 12 dia and 14 dia from home depot on line and I priced out a few other things too.

This first quote is going to use the current vents but will add two direct Returns to the master bedroom and the Office. I will ask about the balancing - manual dampers at the supply plenum & verifying air flow with a flow hood.

I am vey thankful for your input as with the next two salesmen coming for estimates I can ask a whole line of questions.
Rose

what type of insulation do you have in the attic?

the reason I ask is because of dust & allergies statement.

often the insulation particles find their way into the
house via oversized cuts at ceilings for supply boxes
and other openings in the ceiling.
do you have recessed lights?

as I air seal houses for efficiency homeowners
tell me that allergies & dust problems go away.

blower door testing the house for air leakage
& testing ducts for air leakage are good investments.
if you can keep the insulation particles & dust
in the attic rather than inside the living space
you'll be much happier/healthier.

best of luck.