Long time reader, new member, first time poster. I have really found a lot of useful information on this forum and look forward to being a more active part of it.

I got my quote today to replace a 19 year old York furnace and a/c in Wisconsin. The installer is qualified, he has done my repairs for some time and all his replacement install references check out, I even went to see some of them and they all look good..to my untrained eyes anyway.
So I wanted to see what folks thought of these prices as they seem really high to me. And see what opinions are of York and Rheem

Quote 1:
ARI# 3135362 (17.0 SEER/13.0 EER)
$4,111 - York YP9C080C16
$4,935 - York CZH036 with UC36C coil
$599 - York HEAC3000 electronic/media air cleaner
$0 - York UV36120 UV light
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$9,645 total (before all rebates)
$5,995 including all rebates and tax credits

Quote 2:
ARI# 3259681 (17.5 SEER/13.35 EER)
$4,197 - Rheem RGFD 09
$5,339 - Rheem RASL036 with coil RCFN 3624
$599 - Aprilaire 5000 electronic/media air cleaner
------
$10,135 total (before all rebates)
$7,185 including all rebates and tax credits

Both include the touch screen thermostats (Rheem is the newest 412 model). Both include new concrete pads, gas valves, the necessary sheet metal work, new copper lines, permits, 10 year labor warranty, removal of old equip, etc.

I was a bit annoyed he did not do a J calc and instead just matched the existing system. I have another contractor coming tomorrow for comparison so I will post that info when I have it.

Comments? Thoughts?

Nevertheless, it still provided great comfort and yielded some gas savings, as the furnace will quickly ramp down to a level matching the heat loss. Ideally, the amount of oversize should be less than mine since at higher OD temps, there will be more periods of non-operation.

You want that sucker to run constantly at its lowest level for maximum comfort.

What is your present furnace (size, efficiency/age, etc)\

V

AC unit is a 2.5 Ton 9 SEER Energy Knight.

Depending where you live (nearest big city) in WI, the OD winter design temps range from the low single digits, to about -20 degrees. In all likelihood, it would run constantly, which is ideal.

There is one caveat: The furnace is designed to handle air conditioners of 2 - 5 ton capacity.

V

Thanks for all your input, it has been very helpful and is much appreciated!

By comparison, mine if 14 degrees. My house is a 2500 SF, 2 story in Phila. area with a heat loss of 60,000 BTUH. At -8 degrees, my furnace would run 100% of the time (66 degree indoor temp)and wouldn't cycle until the temperature got above 35 degrees.

If I were to move my house to your area, the furnace would run constantly at -4 degrees and would cycle at the same temperature. You could use these figures as a guide as compared to your house.

Make sure you get the model 412 stat as it has the new features of humidity control in winter, and on-demand dehumidification in summer. The wintertime function assumes you have a humidifier. Without those features, the 411 stat requires 7 wires to operate the furnace and 2 stage air conditioner. Single stage a/c will need 1 less wire. The installation should include running a new (preferably) 10 conductor thermostat wire (keep the old one in place). You'll have enough wires for any eventuality.

Since the contractor didn't do a manual J, he probably just 'looked' at your duct system. The new furnaces with VS blowers will work harder if the duct system is undersized or restricted, which could mean, premature failure. Ask him to check your static pressure and to estimate what your total static pressure (TESP) will be with the EAC. Most new furnaces are designed to run with a TEST of 0.5 inches of water column (rarely met). A little higher is O.K.

Good luck on your selection.

P.S., I am just a happy homeowner who did a lot of research, and interviewed a lot of contractors, before settling on one.

V