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minerally

radiant floor heat

minerally
10 years ago

new 40 x 60 x 16 steel frame building. r-17 insulation in walls and roof. radiant heat in slab on grade. north central u.s. quite cold here at times. hot too.

one half of the building is garage/shop. the other half is living quarters. one level: kitchen, bath, bedroom etc.

rural area-- no gas, all electric. 11 cents per kw hour. propane cost is high. I have a well but don't want to do geothermal for this project.

two zones for the radiant heat. one for garage, one for living space.

just one person living there for the most part.

questions:

  1. which is better for this application, a water heater or boiler? what are the considerations? i'm thinking i'd keep the garage part around 60 in winter.

2. for the a/c and supplemental heat in the living space, what is the best option? it's about 1200 square feet, all on one level and pretty open. 10 foot ceilings. just the bedroom and bathroom are enclosed. what about these inverter heat pumps?

thank you.

Comments (3)

  • fsq4cw
    10 years ago

    IâÂÂd say the short answer is a boiler for hydronic in-floor radiant and mini-split HP for A/C & heating redundancy. Perhaps some ceiling fans as well.

    SR

  • Elmer J Fudd
    10 years ago

    I'm a homeowner, not an expert, but doesn't an electric boiler rely on resistance heating? I don't care how efficient a hydronic system is, I think that will be very expensive to operate. Your HVAC contractor should be able to help you assess how to balance initial costs with operating costs.

    An alternative to consider would be an air-source heat pump, the line designed to do better than competitors in lower and sub-freezing temps. (One of the regular experts will supply the name). Along with a high-eff propane furnace as backup for the extreme temps. I'd put the ducts on the inside-side of the walls in bulkheads (also called "inside the envelope") to improve efficiency and reduce heat/cooling loss to the outside.

    Since this is a new building, be sure it's tight, has plenty of insulation, and that the steel structure has thermal breaks so that heat and cold aren't conducted inside by the skeleton.

  • ionized_gw
    10 years ago

    I won't do the calculations for heating with propane vs electric. If you are going to heat with electricity why heat water first? Can't the electric heat be buried in the slab? If for some reason some other fuel source becomes less expensive, install forced air using that.

    On the other hand, a heat pump producing hot water could serve you better in the long run for radiant heat in the slab. I am not an expert, but my impression is that is more a commercial-type installation. I know that Mitsubishi City-Multi systems and similar from other manufacturers will make hot water, but they may be too big for your building. There are probably other options, but they might be outside the experience of a strictly residential installer.

    Carefully consider building orientation and window location for passive solar heat in winter. If you have good insulation and other efficient features, a high efficiency heating or cooling system is less important and you will have to invest in smaller mechanical systems.