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countryboymo

help with heat strip wiring Ruud

countryboymo
12 years ago

I have a Ruud RHLL 3 ton and it seems I might have a dead stage of strips.

I was looking at the wiring and was wondering on a 15kw heat kit if the white with black tracer or white with blue tracer was the higher kw stage.

I also noticed on the control board where the wires for the strips plug in the board is stamped for common which is brown w1 which has a white with black tracer and w2 that has a blank hole. The other white with black tracer is in the far left hole which is also blank. Did someone snap the wire into the wrong hole on the connector?

I would think I should have a brown common... w2 with a wire and w1 with a wire.

Comments (11)

  • countryboymo
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    here is a pic of the connection I am trying to describe.

    Here is a link that might be useful: connector photo

  • countryboymo
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    When the white with blue tracer is in W1 and the stat is calling for aux heat I am only drawing 3kw from the heat pump and air handler which is the same reading with no aux heat call. I moved the white with black tracer to w1 and now have 14kw total 4 mins on and 4 mins off because the cycle per hour was set at 9 which I backed down to 5.

    I remember when the unit was installed the air temp in defrost was bone chilling and I assumed that the 'blue' leg of strips was not powerful enough for a defrost call. I moved it to the white with black and it worked perfectly. I think I never have had more than the one stage of strips.

    Any Ideas or thoughts?

  • countryboymo
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Hey can anyone give a tip on this?

  • heatseeker
    12 years ago

    First tip a 240 heat strip has no common. Heat strips can be very difficult you can get a good shock so you ought to invest in some help.

  • countryboymo
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Ok let me rephrase... if you looked at the photo there is a W1 pin location a W2 and a "C". and a open hole with no designation.

    If it comes down to it I will wear my low volt gloves (600v). I think with my fluke meter and the fact that I am dealing with the control circuit from the W1 and W2 thermostat terminals I will be ok. That is why I called the "C" port common.

    Thanks for the concern heet. Can you look at the pic and tell me what you would do if you didn't have a 2nd stage of strip heat?

  • PRO
    CJ Mechanical of North jersey llc.
    12 years ago

    white/bl is 1 stage,white blue 2nd stage, brown is common to time delay control 1 and tdc2, the plug Pl1 1,2,3 are low voltage control pin 4 is a high voltage pin.

    your photo shows missing pin 2(w2) second stage.
    if wire was removed during install was it because they DID NOT want 15 kw operating??? can the incoming supply voltage to unit large enough to handle 15 kws?Was it removed for saftey reasons and 15 kw was not needed ( to large btu)?
    I would simply jumper out w1/w2 to R where t-stat wires connect to A/H then take voltage/amp readings

  • countryboymo
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    I have two stages wired into the stat and only the black stage works. The blue one is on the far left. The hvac installer told me to swap the blue/white to the correct hole and without thinking plugged the connector back in and turned on the main breaker at the furnace and POP went the switching transistor for the W2 so something else is wrong. Voltage is different on the W2 than W1 but it wasn't substantial and its been a few days so I can't remember the numbers. I don't know if its a wiring issue or if my IAQ had a bad circuit which is doubtful since it didn't just kind of smoke. It went like a firecracker. The unit did not kick on or anything as I had it turned off at the stat. I flipped the breaker and pop. Its a warranty issue now and the hvac guy is coming to figure out why it is wired right now but popped the iaq. everything else still functions correctly.

  • countryboymo
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    I figured it out. The installer grabbed a 10kw strip with no staging accidently which explains why the w2 connection on the circuit board was vacant. I called him and when the temp stays at least 50 I will take a day off and he will install the correct strip set and replace the IAQ module that gave up the ghost.

    I used to have a 20kw heat strip set in the old unit when it was horribly leaky and the house needed more insulation and sealing also. I still kill the heat pump below 10 degrees and the 10kw of strips can handle the task.

    I can leave things be and just warranty the IAQ module or change the strips and module. The good thing is I could stage 5kw of strips to boost the heat pump and run defrost even though defrosting is rare which would help but if it went into the second stage of strips I would be into all 15kw with the heat pump.

    I guess I should be thrilled that I sealed and insulated enough to cut my strip load in half.

    I guess the moral to the story is even if the tech says swap wires and you have the meters and tools... pull them out and check his advice. I put 120v ac on the w2 termination which was more than the circuits design limits which made the magic smoke jump out with ferocity.

  • heatseeker
    12 years ago

    oops , the installer or company rep should have never been giving you instructions over the phone4. Is he paying for the repair? He should for being a moron.

  • countryboymo
    Original Author
    12 years ago

    Especially when he has the wrong strip listed in my file and he installed it. He is paying.

  • heatseeker
    12 years ago

    good job.