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idreos

Has anyone found solution to HVAV Dirty Sock Syndrome

idreos
9 years ago

Two years ago I had a Trane heat pump installed in my Maryland condo
The system developed the Dirty Sock Syndrome about 2 years later. It occurs in the fall and winter months. I have spent many hours reading about this common problem on the internet with no definitive answers other than to remove the coils and send them to a firm in Florida that re-coats them with epoxy.

Has anyone out there had this expensive and time consuming coil coating. The problem according to postings on different forums is known by Trane, but they have not done the right thing by offering to replace the cause.
Is there an easier solution that has worked to solve this problem??

Comments (13)

  • dovetonsils
    9 years ago

    Could you try to run the emergency heat for a while? Maybe the higher temperatures will kill the bacteria.

  • klem1
    9 years ago

    "remove the coils and send them to a firm in Florida that re-coats them with epoxy."

    I have read some stupid ideas on the net and that ranks right up there at the top.
    Do you have the desire and ability to tackle this or are you only looking for someone specializing in such things?

  • autoworld_gw
    9 years ago

    I had the same issue with drtysock with my HP and tried all types of cleaners on the coil with out any luck. Tried coil cleaner, Lysol, simple green etc. My installer talked with the local HP supplier (Westinghouse) and ordered a new coil sent it to Florida, Bronz Glo coated the coil with epoxy and all has been great. They warrented the original coil for having a leak. Did me a Big favor but I had to pay to have it installed lobor.

  • ionized_gw
    9 years ago

    Klem1, Going back a few years, coils coated so they shed water more readily were coming into use. I believe that they are available directly from some major HVAC manufacturers as well. They certainly should be less effective in heat transfer than the naked aluminum.

    My personal feeling is that copper coils, would inhibit microbial growth by their nature so a coating would not be necessary.

  • kodak_1
    9 years ago

    Yes, I had the same problem last year, My AC repair folks got me a new replacement coil and sent to the Florida and had it coated and reinstalled. No more problems!!!!! thank goodness. You can read my write ups about a year back. My repair folks said if I had a Trane coil they could of got Trane to pay for the coating. I have a Trane outside heat pump and coleman inside unit.

  • steph_132
    9 years ago

    I've got Verano system and so far I haven't had such problems, and hope that I won't have it but this informations could be useful in the future :)

  • ionized_gw
    9 years ago

    Steph_132, can you post more information about this "system"?

  • steph_132
    9 years ago

    My husband could tell you more about, I just know how it call. :D Unfortunately he isn't at home. If I'm not mistaken it's a Polish company, it seems to me that it's got website on the Internet, check it. The solutions which they offered us was hit the jackpot .We are satisfied.


  • ionized_gw
    9 years ago

    Google was not helpful at all.

  • steph_132
    9 years ago

    Google wasn't helpful? I can't believe :) I found their website http://www.veranoconvector.co.uk/ for sure you'll find there more information. I hope that I helped.

  • ionized_gw
    6 years ago

    An important aim with coil cleaning is to make sure that any cleaner that you apply is neutral to basic in pH (maybe 7-11) If you go outside that on the low side, you risk corrosion of the coils. I'd limit my exposure to 10 minutes in that case. Anything certified as a disinfectant will work in the period indicated in the directions if the other directions are followed because that is the period that the EPA testing used. In fact, I think that the EPA only uses one time period, 10 minutes.

    I've been using cleaner/disinfectants that are badged and tested for HVAC, NuCalgon products (Evap-Fresh) for the most part. There are duct treatments available as well.

    There are 4 chemical disinfectants that are commonly used, hypochlorite (bleach), alcohols, phenolics and quaternary amines. Bleach works on fungus and bacteria, but is highly corrosive to metals. Alcohols evaporate too fast, although isopropanol sticks around longer than ethanol, and are a fire hazard. They are not not particularly effective on fungus. That leaves phenolics and that is what lysol is (mixture, IIRC). It also leaves quaternary amines. Either will work on fungus, bacteria (and viruses).

    Phenols tend to be lower pH solutions, acidic. I do not know if that is because of stability concerns or that they need to be acidic to be effective. They are not as corrosive as bleach, but why mess with it when you have quaternary amines (sometimes called "quats" for short.) The phenols can be tough on plastic as can bleach.

    If the pan is not draining promptly and completely, try to fix that. Are you using pan tablets of some sort? If not, give that a try. Copper is a natural microbe growth inhibitor. If anyone offers a copper coil, it maybe worth it.

    Can you tell that I deal with disinfecting lots of different materials at work? Here is an anecdote for copper. We have some incubators that have some have some ultraviolet lights that are supposed to inhibit growth in the humidity source (water in a pan). It is an expensive system to maintain and it does not work as far as I can tell. I bought a little 4 or 6 g bare wire, bent it into a U shape and put it in the pans. Problem was solved. I was told that some people use pennies. I guess that would be zinc.

    Good luck, IMHO, not enough attention is paid to this problem and it is a health problem.

  • PRO
    Bronz-Glow Technologies
    4 years ago

    Bronz-Glow Protective Coatings have solved Dirty Sock Syndrome for many of our customers. Please contact us to learn more.

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