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boiler efficiency

Posted by elvis_presley (My Page) on
Mon, Jan 20, 14 at 14:41

I have a 15yo Burnham boiler, that works fine. It is rated at something like 84% efficiency. there is no damper--it is always open. there is also a cold air inlet in the room that is always open.
The boiler is getting old, and the chimney it, and the water heater vents out of is in need of repair.
I'm wondering if I upgrade to a boiler and water heater that vents out of the side of the house, if I will save a lot of energy If a newer boiler is rated at 94 percent efficiency, does that include the inefficiency off all the cold air being dumped into the house, and all the warm air escaping out of the chimney?
I am hoping the upgrade will allow me to eliminate the chimney (at least to the roof line) save me money in heating costs, and, hopefully, keep the furnace room warmer--indirectly heating the kitchen above (which is the coldest room in the house.
There is a company near me that will sell you a boiler and be a resource for you to do a self-install. I've done lots of plumbing and other home repairs, so I believe I am capable.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: boiler efficiency

"does that include the inefficiency off all the cold air being dumped into the house, and all the warm air escaping out of the chimney? "

No, it does not. That makes it even more economic to change.

RE: boiler efficiency

Just converted to hi eff condensing gas boiler condensing, 94%. I can speak from personal experience, you will see a difference as far as cost goes. I replaced an 85% eff. oil boiler that was five years old. My basement was a constant 78, I don't live in the basement , waste. Combustion air as well as exhaust air piped thru PVC pipe out of the side of the house. An outside thermostat is also used to modulate the boiler temp, you don't need full boiler temperature when its 45 outside. As far as your kitchen being cold it won't help that, there is very little residual heat that emanates from these units. Your kitchen may not have enough heating element or there are serious drafts that need plugging.
This is not a cheap undertaking , although there are rebates available. Lastly this is not a diy job. You are dealing with gas and toxic fumes. I've got a enough experience to know what should be done professionally.
Before you do anything get an energy audit, this will give some insight to what direction to go. Most states have organizations who will do this for free.

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