RLA is rated load amps. It is used for wiring and circuit protection sizing calculations. It is not the same as FLA (full load amps).

RLA varies with load. It is not a constant number. One "authority" states that as long as the current does not exceed RLA/0.71, it is not excessive. Others say the RLA cannot be used to troubleshoot or evaluate HVAC equipment.

The units are probably fine.

My post could have been worded better. RLA doesn't actually change. It is a rating. The running amps change with load.

The data plate for my 2 year-old heat pump says 13.4 Rated Load Amps.

Amp draw is based on ambient temps. The technical operating data for my heat pump states that 13.4 amps are drawn at 35F ambient. A low draw occurs at -10F (7.5 amps) and a high draw of 19.3 amps at 65F.

I'm going to guess that you are good to go.

In cooling mode, my RLA occurs at 115F ambient.

This was a good question.

Best of luck with the new home.

Take care.

Thanks creek side and garyg. Good information, and I hope you guys are right because I really don't want to get into a conflict with the seller. I've always thought of RLA to mean 'run load amps' and LRA was 'locked rotor amps'. This one would draw 90 amps if the compressor seized, but I'm not sure where the manufacturer came up with 17.9 amps as a run load. I would think they would state the maximum amps the unit would draw under normal operating conditions, which in the case of AC might be about right, but not for heating. I suppose 23 amps to heat a single floor is still more efficient than a 15KW electric furnace which would take 63 amps.

So what do you think about one of the compressors shutting down while still calling for heat? I guess I should have let it run at no load for a while longer to see if it kicked in again instead of shutting it off.

RLA is rated, and as mentioned above the circuit wiring is sized to 125% of this number.

LRA isLocked Rotor Amps and is used to size the overcurrent protection for the circuit.

When an induction motor start up it pulls current that easily approaches the LRA since the rotor is not turning yet.

This is often the cause of the dimming in other lights that briefly occurs when the unit starts.
If the POCO feed does not have enough excess capacity, the voltage falls slightly for a few cycles of 60 Hz until the rotor in the compressor comes up to speed.

If the unit nameplate or installation instructions specify a circuit size, those numbers are used.

many electricians size the wires for the breaker for a compressor, but this is not required.
The wires are 125% of the RLA.

The unit will only draw this much current when it is loaded to full capacity, so the current will be lower on all but the worst days of heating or cooling.

Are you sure the compressor shut down or the blower fan on the unit shut down? Usually on defrost mode the fan shuts down and the compressor continues to run but reversed in a/c mode to clean any frost off the coil. If this did happen it should have went back to normal in 10 minutes or so and the fan kick back on.

Yes, the compressor ran for another 5 minutes before shutting off and leaving just the fan running. Kind of confusing because my clamp meter was reading 0.0, I would think even with no load it should still read a few amps. The fan and compressor sounds are distinctive, so I'm pretty sure I'm right.

" Kind of confusing because my clamp meter was reading 0.0, I would think even with no load it should still read a few amps. "

Once it is of the current flow had better be 0.0

high compressor amps could mean a failing compressor but it could also mean you are low on charge. there other measurements that need to be take to know for certain.

"there other measurements that need to be take to know for certain."

OP is probably pushing up daisies by now (11 year old post). But for the benefit of anyone else with similar issues what would these measurements be?

Temprature drop, checking microfarads on your dual run Capacitor. and if you have refigerant gages, check your sub-cool and super heat.