Going back to my tech support days, you need to clear your flash cache, if you are on a page containing flash you can right click on it and get into your flash control panel that way, there might even be a control panel for it settings>control panels, lastly if I recall somewhere on the adobe flash download page I think on the left there is some sort of settings option there, click on it and it'll have a bunch of tabs. You probably want to clear the cache out and see if that helps. You could also try add/remove programs, uninstall it, reinstall/reboot. Have you edited your registry before? Did you back it up first, to a separate disk? You can do very bad things messing with your registry if something goes wrong.

There are a lot of free tutorials out there but here are some you might try. Let me know if they help. www.rnel.net/tutorials/Photoshop/Basic_Techniques www.photoshoproadmap.com/Photoshop-tutorials/Source/PegaWeb/1/ By the way a lot of tutorials on photoshop will also work with photoshop elements.

Krebs is a journalist and he writes a blog. That means he repeats what he's told and what he garners from public sources. Why pay attention to a site like that, most people don't. Why? Because most PC users have neither the knowledge nor the insight to understand the nature of threats nor program updates that software companies release. Unless Krebs has work experience as a software developer, he likely doesn't fully understand these matters either. The two best tools to use to avoid problems with your PC are your own prudence (about what websites you go to and the sources of files you try to open or download) and the consistent use of a high rated security program. My suggestion is to set programs to update automatically and allow the software companies to do the worrying for you. I'm a firm disbeliever in the myriad of utilities and alternative programs some people clutter their PCs with. They're mostly unnecessary.

Someone here is having good results with amending clay with 50 percent sand and then topping the area with sandy loam. The nurseryman who runs Laguna Hills Nsy and gave the soils class takes the stock he buys and removes most of the mix around the roots. Then he replaces it in peat moss, perlite, pumice,sand and some charcoal. He would add more sand in the mix he sells bagged but the bags would rip or be too expensive to ship. The charcoal is there because the world's best soils have some charcoal content. A building supply in Costa Mesa sells something called Rick's mix that is sandy loam and decomposed granite for improving clay. I have used the best potting mixes I could buy and watch the plants die off in a year. With the mix from Laguna Hills, it doesn't happen. Now I use a mix of my own soil, sand and the Laguna Hills formula. I have been making charcoal all winter and sifting it to throw out the ash which is alkaline. In the old days the nurseries planted in Sandy loam and sold bareroot. No one amended the holes or they planted high in large mounds or raised beds if drainage was poor. Now the wholesalers who planted in real soil are being edged out by those who plant in composted wood. The plants grow fast and are lighter to ship but eventually the breakdown of the planting material kills the plant. You can slow the process by letting the mix dry out almost completely before watering again, but it stresses the plants, especially in our warm climate. In the old days, a nursery could water every day with no root problems at all. A nursery could keep their stock for years and water every day and feed once a month until it sold. Now it's a race to sell the plant before the mix degrades and the roots die. The nurseries have to move their stock quick before then. Even if you plant it in good soil, the plant might not make it to five years because the mix around the trunk has become poisonous to the plant. Some plants grow fast enough to get roots out beyond into good soil. Arborists use augers to drill out holes around the trunk and backfill with sand to get the oxygen into the toxic area. You can also dig into one side and replace with 100 percent soil and six months later do the other side. The formula is stay away from three times the diameter of the trunk when removing roots. That was the formula for moving plants sold in soil wrapped with burlap. Any plant you fix needs to be shaded for two weeks. You can also help them by spraying the leaves with 1 gallon water 1 oz Karo syrup 1 oz seaweed 1 oz fish fertilizer a little wetting agent I hope this helps anyone trying to save a plant. I think it's rotten that plants are being sold that they know will have problems later on. People think it's their fault. The landscape reflects the trend towards only plants that can overcome the crappy potting mix and we all get taught wrongly to add this stuff to the soil at planting time.