gecko1953, the bleed or relief screw opens a small port which empties the chamber on top of the diaphragm. On the opposite side, the plunger of the solenoid opens a similar port when an electric current passes through. I suspect that this latter port is blocked. With the water shut off, unscrew the solenoid (do not lose the O-ring seal)and turn on the water. Water should squirt from the port and the zone should operate. Then there is a path drilled through the valve body to lead this water away. That may be blocked. A very skinny flexible 'probe' is useful for clearing these blockages. If this does not work, someone else will have to take it from here.

Look at 100% alfalfa cubes, too. They work the same as pellets and are likely to have fewer additives. They are dried chopped alfalfa compressed into 2 inch cubes. As far as I can tell, California cubes don't have additives, but you should confirm with the seller. If you garden in a civilized suburban setting, you can toss them out to the dripline and water them in. If you garden where there are vermin or want to avoid the hand-watering, put them in a garbage can, add water, and dole the mash out to your roses. You don't need to overdo it. I add at roughly 1 cup of alfalfa to a 3 foot diameter dripline. Adjust to the size of the dripline of the rose. The primary additive is a hormone that aids in root growth. In Zone 9 California, early fall (right now) is a time of tremendous root growth, as is late winter to early spring. I'd do it soon. I'm sure you do no harm by adding more or at other times, but IMO it's a labor intensive exercise, so I want to get my money's worth. Once a year is fine. I find it really beneficial in pots and can't manage it any more with the planted roses because it is to labor intensive with a lot of big roses. Follow up to make sure it doesn't form a crust on the surface. You might need to break it up. I don't know what you mulch with, but I put it on top of the mulch I use.

Thinking about the warning not to use Shake n' Feed in a container, it probably is because its rate of release is based on temperature rather than moisture. The theory was that plants would need more fertilizer as temperatures rose from spring into summer when they were in active growth. So, the fertilizer pellets would release more nutrients when plants need it during their most active growth period in summer. However, the "dumping" of the nutrients and consequent burning of the roots was a real problem when the slow release fertilizers were used in hot climates. I think I read that the newer formulas for use in warm climates release the nutients based on moisture and temperature to avoid the dumping and burning. I don't think the "dumping" was as much of a problem in colder climates using the temperature dependent formulas. But even in the cooler areas, dark containers can really heat up, especially when they are in direct sun. That heat can cause the nutrients to be released too rapidly and burn the roots in a container. The soil most likely doesn't heat up as rapidly around the roots of an in ground tree so the nutrients will not be released as rapidly as in a pot or where there is high heat. You can probably find a slow release formula for warm climates that work well in containers. They are probably formulas that are more based on moisture levels than temperature. Cory

Thanks, David, that's helpful. If you have already indicated or don't mind to, where did you build. In our bidding we assumed we could not use the foundation, but oddly the two builders who Ive had look at it so far mentioned, without my asking, that is was in great shape and could be used. Maybe they are wrong or maybe they are being imprecise; maybe it would need some enhancement of some sort. In any event, since we are hoping not to have to ask for variances and such we will still assume the same footprint. People use the term unfitted for a kitchen in a few ways. Typically they are going for an historic look, from the era before kitchens were banks of upper and lower cabinets. They may also mean mismatched. Without going off on a long tangent here, what I mean is a kitchen without traditional cabinets per se, without countertops and backsplashes. Eg things like a huge double drainboard sink, a butcher block, a large table for prep and eating, hutches and such for storage etc. I am absolutely not building for rental. When we were looking, for every property we saw the agent gave us all the info on rental history and I just kept saying no no no. To be honest, i just don't like the idea of strangers sleeping in my bed (yes I know you can use a linen service etc) ... but still. And I am the kind of person who always decorates with a few special, one of a kind things, whether antiques or things with a personal history or things from travels or a splurge. I'd be crestfallen to lose anything, and these are things you cannot simply buy. Yet what a pain to take those in and out of storage. Gee I think I've just talked myself out of renting! I only mentioned rental because someone above was warning on carrying costs for my heirs Heck, with the yield on treasuries and munis right now, soon those will have carrying costs instead of paying interest! The existing home has 4 BR and a basement apt. The apt was not part of the rental and was locked (it is in severe disrepair). I can see the argument for making ours a 5br instead of 4br and a playroom, but honestly I don't want 16 people renting my house. That's too many week in and week out. The property, in tear down condition rented for 4200/wk. A pristine property with 3 BR rented for 5500 a week. I will try to keep the possibility that i might want (or need) to rent in the future, but Ive never done it with our lakehouse (other than as donations to charity auctions) and I feel uneasy about it. We will see if greed triumphs or not!