Ezzirah, Be careful about trusting average last frost dates. (This is where personal experience in your location, or lack of it, comes into play and you find yourself trying to guess what the weather is going to do.) And, even if you have successfully gardened in your location for 5 or 6 years or longer, the weather still can fool you. My average last frost date is March 27th. Prior to 2006, I routinely transplanted my tomato plants into the ground beginning as early as the first week in March, knowing I'd have to cover them up about one cold night a week until the cold weather passed, and I seldom had to cover up the plants more than once or twice in April. So, essentially, my last frost date seemed pretty accurate and "was working" for me. Then, something in our regional climate changed. Since 2006 we have had later and later and later cold nights. We've had snow in March around my so-called "average last frost date", snow in April well past our average last frost date, and our last frost has come the first week in May (consistently on May 3rd or 4th) for the last three years. In 2006 or 2007 I planted a week later than my last frost date only to have a prolonged cold spell including sleet and snow hit well after I had all my tomato plants in the ground. When I saw the forecast deteriorating, I knew I had to do something and do it fast or lose over 100 tomato plants, which by then were between 10-20" tall and some even had blooms. I ran to the store and bought 2 or 3 large rolls of heavy 6mm clear plastic and several rows of duct tape. First, I filled every 5-gallon bucket, 3-gallon bucket, 2-liter bottle and gallon jug I had with water to serve as solar collectors. Then I got busy building temporary hoop houses over 7 rows of tomato plants, using the tomato cages as the support for the plastic and using duct tape to close up the ends of the plastic to keep out wind. I also used U-shaped metal ground staples (normally used to hold down fabric mulch) to ensure the ends of the plastic would stay down on the ground and not blow up into the air. It looked like I was covering up furniture in preparation for painting an interior room in the house. It literally took me from sunrise on the first day until after sunset on the second day, but I did it in a desperate race to cover up the plants before the cold front hit. I also piled up mulch all around the plants but not on top of them which would have caused disease issues. My poor plants then sat there under those 'temporary' hoop houses for 3 weeks until the cold air, rain, sleet and snow had passed. It was horrible. I don't think I lost many plants, but I had to monitor them carefully because it is easy to get diseases on plants grown under plastic since the plastic restricts air flow and I also had created artificially high humidity with the solar collectors full of water under the plastic. Sometimes, if we had an almost-warm day with lots of sunlight (mostly it stayed cloudy during that cold spell), I had to cut open the ends of the temporary hoop houses to vent out the much-too-hot air during the afternoon, and then retape them before sunset. Covering the plants with plastic alone wouldn't have kept them warm enough during that time because some of the nighttime lows were in the 20s, but with the solar collectors catching heat all day and releasing it at night, the plants survived. If I had to do all that again, would I? Maybe, but I've tried to avoid having to go to those lengths by planting later and later every year. Even with later planting, I still get slammed with the hard frost in the first week of May. After 3 years of that, though, I have accepted it as "the new normal" and keep floating row cover/frost blanket type material, heavy-duty plastic, bedsheets, bedspreads, tarps and old sleeping bags handy so I can cover up everything during our "surprise late freeze" the first week in May. Remember, my average last frost date is March 27th. And the issue isn't solely that I am in a lower-lying area than much of the rest of the county (although I am) because from 1999-2005 the average last frost date seemed to be accurate even in our low-lying area. You can't even necessarily rely on short-term forecasts. I think it was in 2007 (could have been 2008, as the years run together after a while) that I left my plants uncovered the first week in May because our overnight low was supposed to be 50 degrees. It had been 50 degrees pretty much every night for a week, so I had no reason to think the forecast was incorrect...but it was. Instead of dropping to 50 degrees, our overnight low dropped to 32 degrees and almost all my tomato plants suffered freeze damage. Some froze back to the ground, while others only had scattered damage. Only one row---the row of black tomatoes (Black Krim, True Black Brandywine and Black Cherry) that sat at the highest point of my sloping garden--survived unscathed. I thought my 50-degree-forecast-that-gave-me-32-degrees instead was a fluke that never would happen again, but then the same thing happened to George in either 2008 or 2009. Luckily, it happened right before our annual spring plant swap so some folks (I think Carol was one) who had raised tomato plants like his Baker Family Heirloom from seed he sent them were able to bring plants to the swap for him to replace what he'd lost to the freeze. So, I suggest you take all "average" dates and recommended planting dates with a grain of salt. Something has seriously changed in our local climate during the last half of the first decade of the 2000s, and we're still operating with 'averages' computed using data from the 1970s, 80s and 90s. Even after you plant, you have to watch the forecast very carefully and some of us have learned we can't even trust a forecast low of 50 degrees. It pays to always have material on hand to cover up plants when there is even a slight chance of the forecast being horribly wrong. Dawn

@mojavean: while your characterization might be agreed with by others, I want to take the time to better explain my thought process. I have been a huge GW fan for years. I've read a ton. learned a ton, and posted a fair amount. Some of that stuff might have even been useful to some. What I would point out is that GW thrives as a community that shares a conversation. The life blood of this process is a two-way interchange: one person needs information. He/she posts a question. Others with useful information respond, not for fame or money, but because they genuinely have an interest in helping. Moreover, most posters, and I am sure you'd agree, love to have others chime in with their thoughts. The best threads are the ones in which a lively, ongoing, multi-person interchange goes on for days and days. Opinions are offered, debated, disagreed with, and all involved learn something. The worst threads are ones in which the OP seems to lose interest. You'll see others respond to their post and attempt to help out but no response is forthcoming. Even if it's just to say "thanks," GW etiquette really asks that you at least respond with a "thanks." And since you're concerned that we didn't look at the dates of the posts, I'd suggest that perhaps you should do the same? The OP posted on 12/13. He/she got three responses within one day, including two detailed responses from two long-time GW posters who are some of (nah, kas IS) the most knowledgeable folks on this Forum regarding ventilation. The OP then proceeded to 1) not respond for TWO weeks 2) ignore the questions and advice given by pillog and kas and 3) reveal that he/she already bought a hood apparently based on the "extra cash I saved." In my occasionally humble opinion, if you are going to post a question, you are obliged to see if there is a response, and to indicate your appreciation. "It feel off the front page" is not an excuse. The reason it fell off the front page is because the OP ignored the thread for two weeks. And if you're going to ignore the advice anyway, why post in the first place? So, yes, I did look at the dates of the post, and if you were reading more carefully, you would have realized that.

This is happening when you are trying to connect to the web server, Correct? If so then check your settings that you put in to access the server. Maybe they use a different port to transfer with. When i was using FP 98 i made a shortcut to the editor and bypassed the rest of the program. Since i use a FTP program(Leap FTP)i did not need the rest of FP. FP 2000 is much more integratedand does not have the problems that FP 98 does . JamesS

Here's a bit of a funny story from back in 1969. Near the end of our senior year, a GF got pregnant by her boyfriend of several years. Their wedding was scheduled for the summer of 69 after they both graduated from high school. Wellllll....the principal got wind of it and told her she either would not graduate (being kicked out for pregnancy), or she would not be going through commencement with the rest of us. I'm just not sure. Me and a mutual friend were very concerned for our pregnant friend. At my suggestion, the mutual friend went and got a pregnancy test, giving the name of the pregnant girl, and it came back negative. The pregnant girl presented proof she was not pregnant, got to graduate, and we got a really good laugh on the principal that none of us particularly cared for. It all ended well. The couple married, raised a family, and are a happy couple to this day. Sue