tomplum, I looked at it more closely tonight, including opening the electrical box. Seeing where the wires go is somewhat reassuring, I think I can label them sufficiently, if they have to come off. For now, they're all still connected, from the stator to the Rear Bearing Carrier, and then into the electrical box. I had enough slack to simply move the Bearing Carrier to the side, for now. However, I would welcome any tips on how to remove the rotor. I removed the long bolt, it came off easily. I had read something on another forum (http://www.broadbandreports.com/forum/r18965592-Portable-generator-disassembly-help-needed) where the person took his (different) genset to a shop. They threaded a longer bolt down through the rotor, into the crankshaft (so there was still "extra" bolt sticking out of the rotor). They then suspended it by the rotor, with the engine hanging down, and hit the bolt with a hammer, which succeeded in popping the engine off of the rotor. I tried something like that (the long bolts that hold the generator closed are the same thread, but a few inches longer), without success, so far. However, I can't hang it with the engine hanging below the rotor :) I still have the engine bolted down in the frame, but it's bolted onto the rubber mounts, so it could still briefly move away from the generator, if it wanted to. The generator is being supported from below by my car jack. I was leery of actually unbolting the engine, since the engine & generator could then slide out of the frame and fall on the floor. The stator is still installed. Any thoughts on how to loosen this would be quite welcome :) Thank you!

The ruling class needs to know a bit more. You have a lot of stuff there, and sound does drain performance...most people aren't aware of that. Sometimes sound will go out if your paging file (virtual memory) isn't large enough. The most common problems, though, are lack of driver updates. It could be any one of thousand and one reasons. To narrow it down, post your computer specs: OS, Hard Drive, Ram, Processor, and Graphics card. If you can, post what you have available after startup. There are some drainers out there. marf

Hi samtom, If you are being redirected to sites that you are not intentionally clicking on, that is a strong possibility that it is due to the Redirect virus. Please follow the advice of zep516 above and have a professional that is trained to remove malware help you. This virus changes registry values and DOES NOT specifically target Google. Google just happens to be the Search Engine of choice by more people than any other search engine, though it does target Firefox. You can join LandzDown and the trained team of experts will be more then happy to help you. I have provided the link below. Once you are infection free, you really need to think about updating IE6 to at least IE8. IE6 is so very outdated and is prone to infection. Here is a link that might be useful: LandzDown Forum

I think anyone who uses anything but tile or at least vinyl in a bathroom is certifiable....hardwood/laminate et al, anything that has cracks or joins that are not absolutely waterproof is entering a world of pain....not to mention, when, err we boys use the toilet and miss, any liquid that gets into the cracks is there forever and things become very stinky... Problems with flooring compressing is why you also don't want your laminate/hardwood extending under your kitchen cabinets, (I even wonder about fridges) best you use plywood under the cabinet of an equal thickness then extend it just to where the kickpanel clips on, then cabinets have a firm footing... Does sound like water damage. (sinking floor) I kind of like the Australian bathroom system. Concrete subfloor, or compressed (waterproof) cement fibre....then a decorative flooring over top, floor incorporates a drain for spills/overflows (baths and sinks don't tend to have overflows incorporated, which would be nice though)