People at other forums sent me the following. Perhaps this will help for someone: I found thet following explanation at http://www.saila.com/usage/tips/?print#textfield. He has some other good tips too. Here's what he says: Unfortunately, both Netscape and Internet Explorer display form fields using different criteria. Because, Netscape uses the browser's monospaced font to render text in a text field, and IE uses a variable font  generally sans-serif typeface  it's best to optimize the box for Netscape first. Once you've done that, use a style declaration (which older Netscapes will ignore) to stretch the box for Internet Explorer. Here are three examples. RIGHT CLICK WITH YOUR MOUSE AND CHOOSE "VIEW SOURCE" TO SEE THE SOURCE CODE FOR THE THREE BOXES. A plain Netscape 4.7 text input box: An IE 5.5 text input box, styled to match the size of the Netscape box (the padding helps vertically align the text): An IE 5.5 text input box, styled to match the size and look of the Netscape box (the border and font simulate Netscape's): -------------------------- Another guy suggested this not great solution: "I decrease the NS size by using the style "font-family: new courier" for input boxes. But it doesn't decrease them as much as I'd like." -------------------------- Another guy says: "I have the same problem with text input fields in Netscape 6. Text fields are inside table cells and Netscape makes them approximately 1/3 too long no matter what the cell widths are. I use a self-declared css class in which I have declared the font sizes and types. The field size can't be delared in stylesheet because the html for input fields is generated by an xsl-template which should be able to be used for different-sized fields. It's a big problem because I have a very limited space in the frame." -------------------------- In my own case, I took a not-great dummy approach. The problem with over-sized NS 4.7 boxes only occurred when I was using Styles. Without styles, the box behaved in NS. So I stopped using styles for that page. It made some other stuff look not so hot, but I was willing to sacrifice to get those NS boxes the right size. Here is a link that might be useful: tip on text box size and other tips

trailrunner, I have two cabs that are about 9" deep at the end of my cabinets...one has oils and vinegars and the other has flours and sugar and rice. I have olive oil, extra virgin olive oil, canola oil, seseme oil, and some oils my son brings me back from Italy. These are strictly storage cabs, the ones I use every day are next to the stove. When we make the new cab, I'll move the oils and vinegars into it, then I'll be able to spread out my flour and sugar into the old oil cab so that I'll have two cabs for the flour and sugar. ...crazy I know, but we both like to cook and make bread so I need a lot of stuff handy, and that is a challenge in a small kitchen. Here is my stuffed pizza, sausage, spinach, mozzarello, grading cheese and pepperoni. Here it is, after rolling up... ready to pop in the oven, with a pizza and another stuffed pizza, I think the small one was fried eggplant with sauce and cheeses. after cooking cooked pizza cut up in the plate... now, what was your question? :)

I am not entirely sure what you are looking for. A lot of gardening for me is researching plants, putting them in spots that fit their cultural needs, and then seeing how they do. If something doesn't work, I move it and try something different. I visit other private gardens, garden centers, and botanical gardens for inspiration and spend time looking at images on line, in magazines, and in garden books from the library. I do best at making suggestions with photos, though the plan view gives a good overview and will help place photos if you letter or number both the photos and where they are on the plan. Can you add some photos? Have them include something that indicates the type of shade if possible. For instance, overhanging trees provide deeper shade than the white wall of a one story house which has a lot of indirect light. Natives are a nebulous concept. Do you mean native to the NE US? If so, New England and New York are almost entirely forested by nature if they aren't kept open. Or just native to the US? That will give your more options. If you are open to nonnative, you have an even wider set of possibilities. Many of the plants you mention (such as purple iris) could be any one of a number of species so I don't know what to suggest about them. I grow several kinds of purple iris: reticulated, Japanese, Siberian, native Iris versicolor/blue flag, and some purple bearded iris, both tall and short. There are several species of Oenothera and Baptisia, but the Baptisia all need a fair amount of sun, so that may explain the slow-growing aspect and the different Oenothera have differing behaviors. Beware of your packet of wildflower seeds. Unless you checked species and are sure that they are actually natives, you may have sown a set of weedy non-natives. Often "wildflower" seeds are just easy self-sowers that aren't natives. I made that mistake a number of years ago and am still removing some volunteers of non-natives that are basically weeds with pretty flowers, but want to take over the whole garden via prolific seeding. 3' and 4' deep is quite shallow for a bed that long, especially with prairie plants that don't always stand upright. I would add enough extra depth to make it a minimum of 5'-6' deep. That will give you enough depth to have more than a single line of plants (or two) for more interest and longer bloom times. Also, be aware that prairie plants really need full sun, and it sounds like several of your areas have too much shade. Look into natives that do well in your area such as some of the asters (US natives are now in the genus Symphyotrichum though not all nurseries have caught up), milkweeds, etc. Check out Lupine, Amsonia cilliata or Amsonia hubrichtii and Rudbeckia. If you are looking for natives for shade, be sure to find ethically sourced plants, not dug wild plants, so they should say nursery propogated, not just nursery raised. These would include Tiarella, coral bells/Heuchera, ginger/Asarum canadense, Trilliums, bloodroot/Sanguinaria canadensis, spring beauty/Claytonia viriginica, Jack-in-the-pulpit, a few of kinds of Maianthemum (false Solomon's seal/M. racemosa, M. stellata, and Canada mayflower/M. canadense), partridge berry/Mitchella repens, wintergreen/Gaultheria procumbens, and Phlox divaricata and P. maculata. Don't forget native shrubs, many of which will do well in your partly shaded areas. Hydrangea arborescens (Annabelle is one cultivar), spicebush/Lindera benzoin, native deciduous azaleas and their cultivars, several Viburnums, all of which have nice flowers, berries if you have different cultivars or wild type of the same species, and and lovely autumn color. Sambucus/elderberry likes sun and is much enjoyed by pollinators and birds, though they tend to sucker and spread. Look at Fothergilla which has honey-scented, bottle brush spring flowers and stunning fall color, especially when it gets at least a half day of good light. Consider having some plants with winter interest since winter in your area, like in mine, can be long and gray. Evergreen perennials look good in late fall until the snow falls, and then woody plants with nice structure or bark or evergreen leaves (either broadleafed or needled) look good. Put the winter interest plants where they will be visible from windows that overlook the yard. Look at cultivars of native red-twigged dogwoods/Cornus, striped AKA moose maple/Acer pensylvanicum, and Cornus alternifolia/pagoda dogwood for winter bark or shape, and rhododendrons (many of the natives are quite large) and mountain laurel/Kalmia latifolia for broadleafed evergreen foliage. Most of these will do fine in part shade. Evergreen conifers such as some of the smaller cultivars of Thuja occidentalis/white cedar or any smaller selections of the native firs and spruces will provide not only green, blue, or gold foliage all year, but winter shelter and nesting for birds along with the rhodies. I much prefer Lonicera sempervirens, the native coral or trumpet honeysuckle, to Virginia creeper in a yard like this since VC/Parthenocissus quinquefolia tends to spread where not wanted with underground stems/suckers. I grow both, but VC is restricted to wooded areas because of its aggressive spreading while the honeysuckle is well-behaved, though large. I have the cultivar Major Wheeler, which has a really heavy bloom in late spring followed by continuous bloom all summer on new growth. The hummingbirds love it. I don't understand the area around the patio and garage. Are those paths along the side and back of the garage, and where is the back door? How will you fit in the trellised honeysuckle? I would remove the thin strips of sod on both sides of the patio. IME most folks don't use a sitting area as far from the house as the far corner of your yard since shlepping a beverage, reading matter, etc. out there can be a bit of a hassle. If you would use it, then fine, but I would be more likely to shade the patio near the house since it is more likely to be used, and put some of the larger shrubs such as some of the native Rhododendron maximum cultivars there.

Thanks for that link - I've looked at it over and over (found it when searching myself) and Maddie copied from it, I believe. I realized I was confused because part way down the list, it switches to items allowed from other countries (not the US) and says milk is prohibited: Dairy products cheese: up to 20 kilograms per person Please note that quantities in excess of $20.00 may be subject to high rates of duty. The CBSA is responsible for determining customs and duties for items coming into Canada. These items are not allowed milk milk products (whey, cream, skim milk, butter oil, and so on) in these forms: dried, frozen, reconstituted, or fresh I didn't notice the heading change so was VERY confused! Now I think I have it straight. I tried to follow the link to inside the link to get specific fruit and vegetable info, but it's impossible to use (at least from my Mac). I'll just not spend $10 on organic cherries and risk having to discard them. I'll put some raisins and dried apples in his pack. I realized I'll want to go to the grocery anyway before we leave so I can get some Sultanas and Ketchup flavored potato chips to bring back for my friends!