Lucy, you're a big help. I hope you don't mind me asking a few more questions. If you do mind, just say so and I'll try elsewhere. Based on what I have learned from my reading and from you... I'm going to repot the nursery plants into training pots by removing as much of the old soil and using a suitable bonsai mix (which I have numerous recipes for) and only combing out the roots just enough to get them into the pot. The training pots are all larger than what will eventually be the bonsai pot, but what size training pot to use I'm not sure. However, most of the mica training pots I've been able to find that seem to be suitable to me are: Round - 12" long by 3" deep Oval - 11" long by 8" wide by 3" deep Rectangle - 12" x 9" x 4" There are others with slight variations but these are close to the others I've found. Finally, I shouldn't do any root pruning, branch pruning, and wiring right now. It would be best to wait until very early spring to do the branch and root pruning, and then wait until next winter to do any wiring. Does this all sound like a reasonable approach? Please, feel free to offer any advice. I've just joined the local Bonsai Society but have not had the occassion yet to meet others and get advice from them. Thanks!

Thank you very much!!!! I am not a tidy gardener, so this will not be a problem. Was just curious about this plant after seeing it planted near the sidewalk. : )

As the humus (residual level of organic matter) in your soil increase so will the number of earthworms as well as the resat of the Soil Food Web. Contact your local office of your state universities Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done for nutrients and soil pH and then dig in with these simple soil tests, Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see where you are in your work at building a good healthy soil.

Kevin welcome to GW. To answer your questions, I will give my opinion as will others. 1 peat has never been good to me as a beginner, then as an avid pepper grower still has not been good and I would steer anyone away from using them. 2. Depends on the NPK and micro nutrients if any. Also the stage which the plant are at. Are you talking store bought or seedling you sprouted? 3 I will leave this question to those who have green/hoop houses 4 yes plants are ok to buy, but if they are hybrids don't count on saving seeds as they will not grow true. 5 as soon as they sprout they need a light source. I use T12 floro/shop bulbs rather than a window. I like to use three stages when transplanting 1 seedling pot, 2 solo cup, 3 final pot. But I am sure you could go to a final pot and be fine. Depending on your zone it may be a bit too late to start from seed. Mark