Thank you!
Tracey

Good quality....

Newcastle R-771 AV Receiver $600.00
Newcastle V-768 DVD Player $400.00
Energy C-50 $130.00
Energy C-R100B Pair $300.00
Energy C-50 Pair $300.00
Energy S-8.3 $350.00

Then there's the required interconnects, universal remote control and programming for the same.

You REALLY need to allot something closer to the 3k to 4k range to do this right.

I wouldn't waste good money doing it "on the cheap" to only want to do it over after determining that it's not really all that good when done the first time.

More questions. Front center speaker: I read that it should be right about even with the front of the TV screen, centered of course. So, where does it actually "go"??? I'm having built-in cabinets (base only) installed across the entire wall, and TV will sit on the "counter top" (desk-top height instead of kitchen cabinet height). The cabinets will have a drawer above the doors. Was thinking I could take the drawer out and maybe fit in a front speaker, but now I'm seeing how small the drawer opening actually is. Please help me picture where I'll be placing this center speaker before I finalize my cabinet order. Also planning on having the center 2 cabinets doors to be glass for the electronics (and holes drilled for wires, etc. within the cabinets). Anything else I should be thinking of when it comes to this arrangement?

And, I'm hoping I didn't screw up......but back when we were originally wiring for this--3 yrs ago, I found a diagram that showed the rear speakers in a room such as ours to be placed on the back wall, so-far in from the side walls and so-far apart from each other. I can't find that diagram anymore, and now I'm reading to put them on the side walls themselves. Uh oh. Am I okay? We were hoping to mount the speakers to the walls (and placed jacks accordingly).

Thanks for all your advice and help!
Tracey

If you are still in remodeling phase - have you done anything for acoustics/insulation? It seems this is the last thing people think about - then after spending $$$$ the inability to really get the benefit

Total Cost 650-900

With a floorstanding speaker you wont need subwoofers

Mixing speaker brands (gsenthil)? Again, some very bad advice.

No need for a sub with floorstanding speakers (gsenthil)? Sorry, that too is not really correct.

TraceyB,

Your rear wall speaker location isn't ideal, but that will probably suffice. Yes, the sidwalls, with the speakers at approximately 6' from floor (w/8' ceilings) would have been the better placement.

That said - back to Tracey B -
I found a few links from places I trust and value their opinions & judgements on things
Like - Crutchfield Advisor -
- I was incorrect re: rear speakers - (flog me), the 30: +/- was re: TV placement
Rears should be above seated ear level -
Bipolar/Dipole surrounds usually perform best when placed on the side walls directly across or slightly behind the seated listening position and at approximately 18-28" above the seated ear level position. ** far cry form 6'**

Here's that link
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/learningcenter/home/inwall_placement .html

Btw while on crutchfield do a search for Newcastle R-771 AV Receiver $600.00 or just Newcastle - I didn't find either

I posted an excellent site below - seems to be quite a pro site so it can be confusing and very "techy"

here's a speaker placement link too
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/search.php?searchid=987905

Many factors come into play with deciding what is "best"
Good luck

FWIW:

The arrangement I suggested for the surrounds is directly from DOLBY LABS specs. Now if they who invented Dolby Surround don't know where the speakers should go, then I suppose no one does.

Crutchfield? Now there's a true professional outfit. Sort of like Best Buy/Circuit City for the internet.

Gauranteee they know ALL there is to know (sarcasm if you don't recognize it) about AV systems.

"You offer such great advice and in such a polished tone, it makes me want to hang on your every word, follow all your threads and responses - let me guess you are in your 20's and you really do "know it all" don't you? (sic)"

I'm sorry I don't come across with a "polished tone" as you would like. But it REALLY bothers me when someone NOT in this profession gives such glaringly incorrect advice. I have a difficult time being politically correct when dealing with ignorance. My bad that. But I can't see sugar coating it. Out of ignorance you gave bad advice. And, to me, giving bad advice is stupidity. I equate that ging of bad advice with giving road directions when you really don't know the way. Not a smart thing to do.

And FYI I actually do not claim to "know it all". And, unless I started in this industry before I was born, I am not some 20 year old (30 or 40 either for that matter).

If anyone is still reading this thread.....what about surge protectors? Surely something less expensive than a Monster HTS 1600 (about $300) will do the job? Yes, I want to protect the new expensive toys, but goodness.....

Just ordered digital cable too.......can't wait!!! And here it is springtime with yard work to be done.....how will we ever get ourselves away from the basement and its new toys?!?

Thanks!
Tracey

I think Mr. Kelly has the last word on this, but, for my money, yes. The keys to look for are:

- a UL 1449 rating on the surge protector itself. Speaking personally, if a protector doesn't have this UL rating stamped on it, I consider the protector manufacturer's claims of protection optimistic at best. UL 1449 is a standardized way of determining how (and, to some extent, how well) a protector works.
- a "clamping voltage" number that is lower. Again, without UL 1449, I consider whatever number is quoted as puffery.
- the amount of energy it can handle, in joules. Compared within a range of models by one manufacturer, higher numbers are better here.
- making sure the clamping applies to all three wires.
- for your purposes, a protector that also handles coax (cable) and telephone (if your system is connected that way) is good, too.
- make sure you have enough outlets, especially if any of the items you're connecting have "wall wart" transformers that take up more than a regular plug's worth of space.

Such a surge protector is going to cost you more than $29.95, but I have to think there are systems out there that can do the job for less than Monster's gold-plated price.

Tracey