Blu, have you tried to remove the spot. Is the spot some sort of growth...does it look like a bubble and if you were to take a nail to it, what happens. Some spots emerge where the juncture of leaves and stem appear. Later, a form of callused over node might appear. That's where new leaf junctures might be forming. Can you scrape off the spot with your fingernail. If you press on the spot....does it create any fluid or pus like to come out. That might suggest the spot is an insect and is eating at the stem or sucking there.

Thanks Scott, your response is reassuring... I'll try the Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide Concentrate now so I can have some form of defense for the time being prior to the fall arriving. If this is a good approach. I'm guessing this is a mild solution of the copper as the website mentions about applying this stuff in 7 to 10 day intervals for as long as needed. Although when I looked at the label it says to apply as a dormant spray in late fall during a period of dry weather... Leaves me wondering if this can be used right now during the beginning of summer as a proactive measure. Maybe if I dilute the dosage some it wouldn't be so harsh right now? The plant won't be fruiting this year so I'm not concerned about damaging any fruits right now. The few flowers that it had seemed to dry up and die before they even bloomed.. :( This is the pdf file for the label on the copper fungacide... http://www.bonide.com/lbonide/backlabels/l811.pdf In late fall I could do the Bordeaux fungicide. I believe the Bordeaux be considered a dormant copper spray.. I'm new to all this and really appreciate all the help and suggestions. Thanks for the information blaze... I really think that I was over watering these plants when I first picked them up here from my nursery. I was watering them almost every day and I think twice I sprayed the entire leaves thinking this would help the plant, until I learned that this can invite diseases... :\ I'm hesitant now and wondering if I should wait on any type of mild copper treatments until fall. Maybe this might clear up and get better....? I still have all my fruit trees in pots. I'm planning on growing the nectarine and cherry tree in pots for now. I picked up two huge 24 in pots. These pots are giant. I want to transplant these into them pots real soon here using mels mix. I'm planning on putting these all on a drip irrigation system which I'm currently working on. I actually purchased a whole house filter in which I'll be using for the irrigation to help filter or minimize any chlorine, etc.. Initially I thought this may have been brought on by some sort of deficiency or over watering as I was watering allot on every session... I read that sometimes this can cause nutrients to be washed away from what little soil is in the existing buckets. Doing the finger test wasn't working well for me as the top inch of the soil would feel dry almost daily and I would water about that often not realizing a few more inches below the soil was still moist. I finally purchased a moisture meter which made me realize my trees were not as dry as I was thinking. As a newbie to the outdoor garden I have lots to learn. It's sad to have purchased some fruit trees just to have them go sick in just a few weeks time... Hope I can recover them and learn from this lesson... Question.. When you water a plant, does it matter how long you water the plant at that given moment? Is it possible to water too much if the plants are draining well? The buckets do have their holes on the bottoms and seem to be draining well. Does it make a difference if I watered them for 5 minutes with the hose or 30 minutes with the hose besides my pocket book? As long as I don't water them again until they need watering again? And do these type of stone trees, when using a moisture meter (if anybody in here does) should the readings always be on moist, wet or allowed to go dry prior to watering again?.. If you or anybody else may be familiar with those moister meter levels. Richard S.

I wouldn't do anything now. If they turn into areas of dead bark by pruning time, it is a canker fungus. Cankers are, or become, pretty large (1" or more) with concentric color zoning. Normally we prune to a budeye at least 1" below these. If smaller, it could be a lesion of blackspot or something similar. These often develop on green canes in the fall. Apparently they are not directly harmful, but release spores in spring. This may be of no concern on KO, as the leaves are resistant. Also green canes may go spotty for a while as they change color in the maturing process. I normally notice this in spring/summer, though. Usually, I completely ignore my roses from shutdown in late November until pruning time in late March. It spares some anxiety and fuss. I don't know that any harm has resulted from this policy.

It is a fungus better known as "rust", not bacterial spot. Bacterial spot are black dots and more towards the tip of the leaf and on the fruit. The best treatment that I found is a soil drench using Dithane M-45. Mix 2 Tablespoons (1oz) to one gallon of water. To that mix you can also add water soluble fertilizer such as tomato 18-18-21 or 20-20-20 using the same amounts stated. Re-apply again in 10-days, then re-apply 10-days after that again. You can also spray the trunk, branches, and leaves with this mix. The best document actually a Power Point presentation that shows all types of peach disease and how to treat them can be found here: http://www.imok.ufl.edu/misc_news/peach_field_day06/diseases_of_peach.ppt Very informative pdf doc. http://www.doacs.state.fl.us/pi/enpp/pathology/pathcirc/pp69.pdf Here is a link that might be useful: Diseases of Peach in Central and South Florida