I have a number of 8 foot doors with single latches. Only the french door is a significant problem - they are solid wood entry doors and the sealing is not perfect although there is no warping after 3 years. Triple is definitely better but you don't have too....We have them at a house in high wind areas and they are great. That area requires triple latch on all doors with glass I think - we have it on a glass 6'8" door (as well as a 8 ft door) but not a solid one. Anyway - they seal great and the security is amazing. Imaging kicking in a door with triple point latches into a steel frame.... Style is one thing - air sealing, longevity and security are another. I honestly think I would do triple point on any exterior door if money wasn't an issue.

yup once... I can't bear the menthol effect... but it sure ease the pain.

Pam, the floor does have a high density core like laminate but it is made of NO VOCs per the Mirage Website and I am seriously now considering the Maple Auburn since to me it is a nice reddish/Orangey brown color that looks wonderful with my credenza in my office. I still love the BR-111 Brazilian Cherry but with so much furniture in my home office and no windows in the second room and seeing the major color change (peaked under the advertising paper flap on top), I worry about this. It is my first choice if I could move the furniture around but since I can't due to how heavy the furniture is, I am thinking a floating floor that has a strong-lock may not be a bad idea with a hard wood species that is not so light sensitive.

Here is what I think is going to play out best for you if you are going to be in the house long enough and will heat primarily with wood. Keep in mind that I am an amateur with absolutely no experience in duct systems. I decommissioned mine at the first opportunity and installed mini splits. I'll gladly accept all criticism from anyone that actually knows something. Berto, you've already said that you are going to have ducted AC, (I'd look at mini-split heat pumps, but that is me and I don't have the time to split wood.) It ought to be pretty simple to make a dual furnace system with a wood furnace first in series with the (second) propane or electric furnace. Your thermostat turns on the AHU blower (for me, ideally, a variable speed blower with a proportional thermostat). If the wood boiler is supplying sufficient heat the secondary furnace does not run. If the duct temp between the furnaces falls below a set temp (which might slide depending on outdoor temperature) the secondary furnace fires up. If the day comes that you tire of cutting and splitting wood, you pull out the cheap furnace and put in a mod con furnace. It is no biggie to toss that first furnace because it was inexpensive to start with. The duct system has to be designed to support both heat sources and cooling. The furnace that you choose will have to be just good enough to run a cooling system well which might be more costly than the least expensive that you might use for (back up) heating alone. Keep in mind that a (complicated) super efficient furnace or boiler is not going to be a good investment in a well-insulated and sealed house that is primarily heated with wood. The ROI time will look like infinity.