I have a humidifier attached to my furnace which definitely helps to some degree with humidity in my townhome. But I think the biggest difference for my citrus this winter as opposed to last winter is that I manually mist them (only two - a small Meiwa kumquat and a Bearss lime) twice a day, once in the morning and again in the evening, with tepid water.... They seem to like it and look healthy.

I used hot water supplied to my Aprilaire 760 to increase the evaporation rate on my 2-stage gas furnace. I ended up doing this to assist the unit to adjust to the sudden humidity requirements I saw on occasion when my furnace rarely went out of first stage. With regards to going tankless/on-demand, depending on model and size, it takes .4-.6 GPM to activate the burner which is well above what a humidifer uses/demands. Not that it will be a problem but the warm water will only be supplied to the humidifier when another fixture is requiring hot water.- Thus no short cycling will ever happen due to your humidifier.

This might be too much to ask, but... Had my 2 systems put in and the installers did a nice job, but after I noticed my Honeywell HE250A bypass humidifier was not working I looked and am pretty sure the installer didn't configure things right for the humidifier or for dehumidifying. They are coming back tomorrow, but I would like to understand this so I know they do it right. Upstairs system is Trane XV90 2 stage var speed furnace with Trane XR15 single stage heat pump. Downstairs system is Trane XV95 2 stage var speed furnace with Trane XR15 single stage heat pump and Honeywell TRUEEase HE250A bypass humidifier. First the Humidifier. According to this picture the top dip switch should be set to the right and the lower to the left. Am I right? Installer did not set them to this. From HVAC Then on the IAQ it appears he should have installed a jumper between RH and H1 as shown in Fig 14 below. Correct? From HVAC And finally, for the general tstat to furnace/heat pump with dehumidify on demand how should this be wired and jumpered? As for DOD from the IAQ diagram it looks as though DHM2 connects to the low speed fan terminal on the furnace. Is that the BK terminal? Why does the furnace install guide say "between R and BK"? I haven't actually looked at the board on the furnace but that doesn't make sense to me. Can someone help clear this up? From HVAC

Hi, I'd be very appreciate of any advice you could offer: 1)I started to tape up our duct work as we have a lot of leaks and found our black line (from the outside compressor) was dripping water). I figured that can't be good - what is that - there is black foam that is peeling away. The system is a carrier and about 5 years old (we have owned the house for three and had it serviced about 2 years ago). We were thinking about having it serviced anyway, for routine maintance, but any ideas? Here is a picture of the drip: 2) We have a lot of holes, soft spots, etc. in our duct work near the ac/heater/inside units - I'm assuming from the humidifier and long term usage. We had one AC company come out while on home warrenty the first year and they put tape and refuse to fix it even if we offered to pay if the warrenty company didn't. When we did our DIY kitchen remodel, we tried to get someone to look at it and help rework the kitchen ducts - one guy was great and refused the job as it was too small and he thought we could DIY just as easily but told us how to do the kitchen (which we did no problems). I'm worry of mold - is this a silly fear - can we rip it out DIY and replace it? What else can we use beyond the square metal? My husband likes flexable or round? (Or anything that requires cool new tools). Current set up with problem areas: 3) We have a Carrier humidifier that we've never used - I bought the new filter and well, after we removed the old one it was so gross I've never wanted to use it - is this the "best" unit or is there something "better" we can replace it with? How hard are they DIY? We've done a lot of plumbing (with soldering copper), electrical, the entire kitchen, windows, doors, and the list goes on). 900 square foot first floor with basement. (and we'd like to plan for a second story so have the unit big enough for that -another 900). Thank you in advanced!