Walt, what on God's green earth is that thing? As far as oil ratios, everybody should use what they feel is the best. I personally don't like the idea of running a high mix oil at 100:1 when the folks who built my orphaned 2-stroke recommend 32:1. Now I know some of you guys use these synthetics with good results. It's just not for me. Additive packages and whatever else, I prefer to follow engine manufacturer's recommendations and use LB oil. I actually run mine with a little extra oil to be on the safe side, just in case. However, this is what I do because it works for me. I'll always suggest going with spec or richer, but if something else works for another person that's fine too. When you ask people for their opinions on this forum, that's exactly what you will get. Silly thing to argue about really.

Well honestly, the only way I would get to the point of not discarding roses, is to never buy any more moderns.. Where I have drastically cut back from that.. I still think I might always try one or two of them here and there.. Usually you can grab 3-5 years out of them, before the peter down to nothing. Then its time to yank and replace them. What I wont do anymore is try stuff that I know wont work. Buck roses are out.. they are more marginal than most austin roses. Which is sad as they are marketed to cold regions, but unless you buy the 2-3 roses from that group that is truly northeastern hardy, the rest of them are no better than most other morderns. The Morden roses are out for me, I know there are a couple hardy ones. But I only tried the ones with more color, but I found them lacking in hardiness as well. I could have a massive garden of pinks/whites and mauves lol.. Oh well that is why I fill in the gaps with perrinials I suppose. I too am confused about Queen of Denmark. It seems never to flourish. Will have patience though. Silverkelt

Not much you can do now. If you are willing to redo it all you can keep your boarder detail level all around and add you sliver at the bottom. Sometimes level does not work in a mock up and you need to set this course a little off level. Not much but sometimes this look is preferred to that of a missaligned tile laye out. If the tiles where "Glued" on then they should come down with ease. A simpilar option might be to add in a corner shampoo niche and break up the sight lines. This would be a easy fix and one that will not cost you a fortune to do. Layout is key people. We layout all this detail before we even start the plumbing and electrical. Planning, options, forethought all take time and cost money. An older home can hide some of these "Character Marks" and it is up to your trades to help you find a happy medium between what you can afford and expect and what is realistic in any given renovation. Slow and steady wins the race. Don't dive into these installs but map them out first. If it works on paper it most likely will work in the field. My thoughts. Good luck. Love the window by the way...

Not sure what you have going on there, but I sell about three hundred leather pieces a year and never come across peeling like that. Usually there are only two things that can cause that. 1 ) Something was applied to the leather that caused a severe chemical reaction and the topcoat is stripping off 2 ) This is common to see on bi-cast or bonded leather. Let's explore what bonded / bi cast "leather" actually is: When leather upholstery is produced at an upholstery maker they save the hide salvage. Appx 1/3 of the hide is scrap on a build ue to wrinkles, scars, marking, or being on the edges. If they can. they make swatch samples out of the remnants. Otherwise, they all go in the "Bins" which are in the cutting room of factories. Here's a set of "Bins" at Hancock and Moore's factory in Taylorsville NC. These are sold to a company that goes around to all the leather upholstery makers in an area and bins are picked up every two weeks or so. They are then put into a container and shipped to China for processing. Once they arrive at their destination, they are chemically melted into a leather slurry and bonded to a polypropylene sheet, then embossed with a grain pattern, painted and topcoated. These are then sold as either bonder or bicast leather. There is no benefit of real leather any more as the cellulose structure genuine top grain leather has been destroyed in the melt process. Bonded and Bicast leathers don't have much longevity and tend to "Strip" away like you are seeing in your photos. Neiman Marcus is a reputable company, I would suggest you start by contacting the Store Manager in person if possible. If these units are only two years old they should go to bat for you, they are the selling agent and have a duty to respond and interact with the manufacturer on your behalf. Find out what you really have for a cover and then what they will do for you. As long as you did not' apply something to the units that would cause that, they should take care of in some form or manner. Good luck