Anything new in toenail fungus treatment?
socks
16 years ago
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bigack
16 years agoninos
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Fungus nails
Comments (27)I am not suggesting anyone try this, but I am curious about UV-C sterilizers as a possible treatment. I know that UV-C causes cell damage, but if a person was to protect the skin by covering the surrounding area, and give a timed few seconds "burst" of UV to the nail only, It would seem likely to work. There are these pocket UV sterilizers wands, I may get one. meantime, I am using an OTC anti-fungal and tea tree oil, and if I really get on top of it and use it twice a day, there seems to be improvement. my problem is in 1 toe nail, I had an ingrown toenail infection, about 25 years ago, which required minor super painful cutting, and this nail is curved and partly separated in the middle from the skin underneath, so its difficult to treat because normal heat and moisture from work doesn't help. ( I cant use sandals where i work ). I heard Oregano oil is also a great anti-fungal, also soaking your feet in warm water that has a little chlorine, and baking soda, this worked great for my athletes foot I had years back....See MoreTreatment for new bulbs
Comments (5)Hi, Gail... welcome to the forum! Getting new bulbs is always exciting, and we're happy to help get you started! The outer brown husk can be peeled carefully... Hippeastrum bulbs are built rather like onions, in layers. The outer skin is nothing more than a dead layer that offers some protection for the bulb flesh, but since you'll probably be potting them, it really won't need that. Once I have the outer husk peeled so I can see what the bulb looks like, I dust a little bit of Captan anti-fungal powder around the edge of the basal plate at the bottom of the bulb, and I make sure I dust any bruises, wounds or raw flesh. This will help keep any rot from setting in. If you find any soft, rotting areas, carefully cut them out with a clean, sharp knife... and make certain to dust well with an anti-fungal powder! Cinnamon will work in a pinch, but it's best to use a product like Captan, by Bonide. If you end up cutting away any areas that will come in contact with soil once potted, don't pot it right away... dust it with anti-fungal powder and set the bulb somewhere away from direct sunlight to dry for a few days... then pot up, taking care to keep the wound out of moist soil if possible. Next, I choose a nice pot with drainage holes... I prefer unglazed clay, but any pot will work as long it has drainage holes. When you pot the bulb, you want at least 2 inches of space between the bulb and the wall of the pot. I like them larger, but I use a very fast-draining medium that doesn't retain moisture. I mix my own medium, and I don't use the bagged soil available everywhere. Next, I pot up the bulb, keeping at least 1/2 to 2/3 of the bulb above soil level. I don't pack the soil... instead, I gently tap the pot side to settle it in. Then, I give it a nice drink of tepid water, and place it in a warm, sunny room to grow. Water again after new growth begins, and then on a regular basis, as the soil becomes dry at root ball level. Don't panic if growth is a little bit slow to start... some bulbs take a little bit to wake up from dormancy. If growing Hippeastrum bulbs teaches us anything, it's to have patience, and to be observant. Good luck with your new bulbs! If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask! We're here to help! :-)...See MoreNew to camellias, have so many!... fungus issues?
Comments (11)I only grow mine in containers , since I do have to bring them indoors for the winter, and so far no fugus issues from what I can tell, but not to add even one more worry I did find to my surprise, aftering having them for a while , I suddenly had some mite problems and was dumbfounded by the odd behavior of those new mitss, since unlike the common spider mites I get on some of my exotics and two spotted mites outdoors here, which usually get the mite eggs and even adults on the undersides of leaves, these new ones were favoring the top sides of the leaves and were unfortunately equally good at multiplying very quickly to do lots of leaf damage. Doing some research, I guess there's a species of mite peculiar to camellias , and not a welcome problem. Not seen them in a long time luckily! Doing even a bit more research again today, I unfortunately found that those very visible ones, aren't the only kind they get with the "bud" mites being microscopic and hence potentially more of a threat in the early stages, since before the damage shows up you may not be able to see them, so treatment may not be used til you've realized you have those! I hate suggesting carrying around a magnifying glass, when inspecting various plants, but perhaps it's a wise habit to get into! In general for the larger mites , I can usually spot the damage if not the mites , when the populations are still very low and easily controlled or eliminated entirely!...See MoreOrganic treatment against pests and fungus in Zone 9a
Comments (206)It is raining cats & dogs & probably a few other pets here as well... I am soooooooooo grateful.... it was severely dry, I was trying to water with my tap water but after only 3 days everything is bone dry again...the clay earth was literally cracking up...now, the roots will have enough water for the coming winter...it is such a beautiful sound... And all the gypsum and potassium S. is going deep into the soil now. Now I will again add Potassium S, but no gypsum anymore for quite a while...I think I overdid that a bit... or what do you suggest Straw? should the gypsum and Potassium S. always be used together every time? Thanks so much for the great info... Tomorrow I will dust every rose with corn meal, seeing that they will probably still be damp by tomorrow evening ... and I am really happy to hear I don't need to add more chicken manure. I did that twice this season already... Khalid, did the rain take care of your Flying Super Ants? I noticed something when spring started here... the moment the temperature reached above 28C for the first time, all roses scorched. But as the summer grew hotter, it was as if they all started adapting, and only a few scorched...most became immune to the heat and only scorched above 35C... ps... The only time any of my roses have some disease, it is either due to bad circulation, or because I haven't given it water in the heat soon enough (then they get mildew in the rain), or when the dew starts at the end of summer, also during times when I haven't been giving it enough water... and, mostly to roses in full sun....See Moresocks
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