Can't get rid of athlete's foot!
miscindy
17 years ago
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Vickey__MN
17 years agolazy_gardens
17 years agoRelated Discussions
How Do You Get Rid of Leaffooted Beetles
Comments (17)rhizo: We are talking about 5 years ago when I was desperately trying to get rid of them. From what I remember I used numerous different products, more organic products than anything, but also chemicals that were not organic. I remember I even used a a spray that is suppose to be powerful enough to kill hornets (don't remember the name now). But nothing worked-killed on contact but they still kept coming day after day. I tried to only use the chemicals on the sunflowers rather than my vegetables because I was afraid I would poison us if I did. I had over $400 worth of Garden Alive organic products that I tried, Bulls-Eye I remember, and other insect killing products that I had gotten from Garden Alive--just can't remember all their names now-would recognize the names if I saw them. I also tried DE I remember. Sorry I can't remember everything--it was so long ago. As far as ants go, we can control local ants very well, it is the fire ants that keep giving us fits. My husband has spent lots of money on products that say it is for fire ants, but nothing seems to work. I have read up on everything I could about fire ants, things like you should put the poison granular on the mounds in the early AM because this is when the queen comes to the top--because it is cooler then--that she will go deep in the mound when it gets hot. My husband even pours boiling water on the mounds, but all that does is just make the fire ants that is left make another mound somewhere else. All the surrounding farms around here have fire ants, so even if you could get rid of the ones you have, you are just going to get your neighbors too. Everyone in the neighborhood has to get rid of their fire ants or they just keep migrating to each others farms. We even do things like run over the mounds with our cars every time we see one when we come home or leave the house, and my husband runs over them with the tractor whenever he cuts the grass. They even got into my gardening shed and ate a hole through the large sack of my potting soil and then proceeded to make a mound out of the potting soil! If you know of something that works, please let me know because we are about to have to sell our land just to get away from the fire ants! Thanks, Sheila...See MoreClean or change AC ducts to get rid of old house smell???
Comments (9)Were previous owners smokers? We redid a rental house & got new screens, 2 coats paint on each room, completely redid the kitchen, new cabinets, countertops, new appliances, light fixtures, etc. New floors & new carpet throughout. As we worked of course it was fall & had windows open. Right after realtor started showing the house to renters it got cold & we had to turn on heat, wow, did the house stink, we opened up that furnace door & it was dark dingy yellowed smoke, stale stink. so hours more of bleach water & cleaners before the place was pretty good. We added bowls of vinegar at night & hid them in the morning. by the time renters moved in it was pretty good. So try vinegar bowls where kids & critters can't get at them Open box of soda in closed in areas might help. Take a vent cover off & wipe out area of vent & rinse rag out in clean bowl of water, is it all brownish? Then it's probably the vents, if it is just dirty water with no smell that might not be it. I took a long skinny broom to couple of my vents a few times, got almost nothing out but I had gotten a high quality duck tape for attics & seams & so I guess nothing get in them to speak of. I have allergies big time, also clean out the area under furnace where air goes into to it from hall. I put a heavy piece of carpet pad that is covered with plastic on the floor under there & then wipe out couple of times a year by taking vent cover off. Of course no 1 smokes in my house but that area does get some dust. Yes fridge, freezers & humidifiers have drip pans that need cleaning or they can make you sick. Also if you have any drains that don't have water in the elbow sewer gas can come up & make you very sick, is there drain in center of basement floor- be sure to put gallon of water down it often or keep it covered, upstairs bathroom not used, get water in all the drains including tub or shower. Good Luck, Hope you find the problem soon....See MoreI'm frozen and I can't get myself going...
Comments (12)I sewed some puckers in the back of a quilt I did last year. I'm generally a perfectionist, but I'm also very impatient & HATE "the ripper". As long as the pleat wasn't on the front or huge, I let it go. It was my first largish size quilt I quilted all by machine with a free motion foot (hexagons, triangles). I consider it my learning quilt since I learned a few things NOT to do, but it's still beautiful on both sides...the back is batik & disguises the puckers. I'm impatient & sewed too quick at times & therefore pushed (maybe shoved?) the quilt thru the machine. I also wasn't patient enough to flatten & adjust the quilt layers each & everytime I had to turn it, so with each & every turn, there's pucker potential. This will also happen if you don't pin or baste good enough. Again...I didn't baste as good as I should have. Ran out of pins. I also like the applique idea. But for me, unless it's a really large pleat or hole, that just adds more time to the project when I could be just done with this one & starting another one. ;) My scrapbooking motto is: "If it doesn't look right...glitter it". Glitter will fix just about any flaw or add some spice to a scrapbook page. I haven't quite figured out how to tactfully add glitter to my quilts. :)...See MoreSoil mites? If so how to get rid of them please
Comments (5)You're already using a number of toxic ingredients. Did you know: most dish soaps have as many as a dozen ingredients that are phytotoxic (poison to plants)? detergents in these products destroy cuticular waxes (protective wax in leaves' outermost layer) and root lipid membranes? many "neem" products have little or none of the product (azadiractin) that makes neem oil effective? you definitely do not want vegetable oil in the soil, forming a barrier between roots and their oxygen supply, and alcohol in the soil will also destroy roots' lipid membranes? If you don't want to use anything toxic, I would suggest you make sure you're not providing (soil) conditions that ensure large populations of soil pests. Small soil particles that are high in materials that break down quickly (like cellulose) are particularly attractive to soil pests that feed on rotting vegetation, so avoiding things like leaf litter, unfinished compost, or the meals from which organic fertilizers often derive nutrients. Also, avoid fish or seaweed emulsions. For the most part, insect soil pests can be avoided by choosing a medium they find unfavorable and watering appropriately - only when the planting actually NEEDS watering. It's easy to determine when your plantings need water if you use a "tell". Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod with a diameter of 1/4 or 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They're most commonly sold in 48” (120cm) lengths and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See Moresocks
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