We chose this Kohler Elmbrook undermount sink for our guest bathroom. While we wish the overflow hole was on the opposite side so you don't see it directly under the faucet, we preferred the look of the Elmbrook over the Ladena. Our designer specified two XL Katie sinks for our 10 ft floating vanity in our primary bathroom (currently under construction). We're planning to install our sinks with a slight positive reveal and the Obrien sinks have a finished rim. Also they can be installed so the overflow hole doesn't appear directly under the faucets.

looks like you have a heck of a harvest there.. and it is sept... do you really think it time to treat the plants for bugs ....??? i realize knowledge is power and all that.. but the quest for such need not result in treatment ... keep looking... eventually you will find it ... and if you do.. lay them on the sidewalk.. and the birds will fly them away for you ... ken

Robert, PAoK can turn plenty coral, especially if you live in a place with hot and dry summers like here. Mine, which was a big thug, also produced little coral blossoms just as soon as the all summer heat waves hit, and didn't go back to a better size and color until well into fall. I find that Boscobel is so much better in our climate than PAoK was. And Bosco is no small shrimp rose, either, but a large rose that blooms way more than PAoK ever did here. In your climate, you may not have much of a coral problem, though. Diane Boscobel Boscobel

No drainage in this pot. This arrangement doesn't necessarily preclude you from maintaining your plant in a high state of vitality (health), but it does make that end extremely difficult to achieve, especially if you allow the main pot to sit in water that collects in the cache pot. The reasons why this arrangement is less than ideal: 1) Excess water retention limits the oxygen supply essential to normal root function. If roots cannot function normally, it becomes increasingly difficult for the plant to move water efficiently to it's most distal parts. This results in necrotic (dead) areas in the tree's foliage, most commonly at leaf tips and margins. 2) The arrangement doesn't allow you to flush accumulating dissolved solids (salts) out of the soil. As the level of dissolved solids in the soil/ soil solution increases, 2 problems arise. A) The added salt makes it more and more difficult for the plant to absorb water and nutrients. B) It promotes imbalances in the ratio of nutrients, each to the others. When this occurs, an excess of one nutrient limits uptake of one or more other nutrients essential to normal growth (search 'antagonistic deficiency' for a full explanation. I use HappyHappyHousePlant plant food every time I water. When I started to look into the fertilizer you used, it was with the idea I would discover another grower had fallen for yet another scan; however, I was surprised to discover that the product is very likely Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, a superb choice as your 'go to' fertilizer for plants in containers. The conspicuous downside to using that product doesn't lie in the product's efficacy, but in its price. While an 8 oz refill of the product you buy costs $26.50, you can purchase 8 oz of Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 for less than half that price. Compare the products' analysis: HappyHappy: Nitrogen (N).........................................9% 2.80% Ammoniacal Nitrogen 6.20% Nitrate Nitrogen Potassium (K2O)................................3% Phosphorus (P2O5)...........................6% Calcium (Ca)........................................2% Magnesium (Mg).............................0.5% Iron (Fe).............................................0.1% 0.1% Chelated Iron (Fe) Copper (Cu)....................................0.05% 0.05% Chelated Copper (Cu) Manganese (Mn)...........................0.05% 0.05% Chelated Manganese (Mn) Zinc (Zn)..........................................0.05% 0.05% Chelated Zinc (Zn) Derived from: Ammonium Nitrate, Potassium Nitrate, Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Nitrate, Monoammonium Phosphate, Monopotassium Phosphate, Iron EDTA, Manganese EDTA, Copper EDTA, Zinc EDTA Full Analysis Nitrogen (N).........................................9% 2.80% Ammoniacal Nitrogen 6.20% Nitrate Nitrogen Potassium (K2O)................................3% Phosphorus (P2O5)...........................6% Calcium (Ca)........................................2% Magnesium (Mg).............................0.5% Iron (Fe).............................................0.1% 0.1% Chelated Iron (Fe) Copper (Cu)....................................0.05% 0.05% Chelated Copper (Cu) Manganese (Mn)...........................0.05% 0.05% Chelated Manganese (Mn) Zinc (Zn)..........................................0.05% 0.05% Chelated Zinc (Zn) Boron (B)........................................0.01% Sulfur (S)....................................... 0.04% Nickel (Ni)................................... 0.0001% Molybdenum (Mo) ..................... 0.0009% Derived from: Ammonium Nitrate, Potassium Nitrate, Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Nitrate, Monoammonium Phosphate, Monopotassium Phosphate, Iron EDTA, Manganese EDTA, Copper EDTA, Zinc EDTA NOTE: I believe that The HappyHappy product unintentionally misreports the levels of potassium and phosphorous. It should read that 3% of the product is phosphorous and 6% potassium. They simply have the % of those 2 ingredients reversed. That is not a major issue - just something I noticed. You can see by the analysis that what you're using is indeed repackaged Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. If you are flushing the soil when you water, you can continue to fertilize as you are, or you can change to a 'production level dose' applied about every 3rd or 4th time you water (in summer) and every 4th or 5th time you water in winter. It makes far more sense to tie your fertilizer application intervals to the number of times you have watered as opposed to the calendar. I water by sight or by feeling the soil. I suggest you change that strategy. Reason: If your pot is 10" deep, the top 2 inches can feel completely dry while the bottom 6" of the soil column is 100% saturated. What's important is how wet/moist the soil is at the BOTTOM of the pot. Roots in the top few inches of the soil column serve primarily as plumbing and anchorage, while roots deeper in the pot have hundreds if not thousands of the fine roots that do all the plants heavy lifting in terms of ensuring adequate water/nutrient uptake. This piece I wrote about "Using a Tell" will provide more info: Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips in order to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions - which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma and creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell' (more reliable than a 'moisture meter'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) works better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half or in several pieces, depending on how deep your pots are. Sharpen both ends of each tell in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell's tip comes out nearly dry. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al