Thanks to all of you and your responses. I realize I have taken my sweet time in replying but I have been attempting to analyze and observe my lawn in light of your joint comments. I have learned quite a bit. 1. I had just applied my second (!) warm weather feeding before reading your posts so that was no good. 2. I have finally collected enough tuna cans and performed several tests and discovered to my utter dismay that I basically give my south facing zones approximately one inch every time I water! This may be obvious to most posters here but for me, I have continued in recent years to mistake the brown areas for dryness and yet they are the most watered parts within each irrigation zone. I had ceased evening watering immediately after your replies and began using my bird bath as a rough indication of rainwater but per your instructions I should only be watering once per week (when there is not significant rain) which is simply astonishing to me, given my prior perception. 3. After your posts, it was moderate temperature here for a couple of weeks low 80s at most and pretty dry and my lawn began to look a little better (I concluded it was the second fertilizer application kicking in) but in the last 2+ weeks there has been huge rainfall, 90 degree days and high humidity. The brown patches have spread wildly and some areas simply look like they are completely dead. 4. In response to bestlawn's seed inquiry, while I am unsure what I started with, I have been re-seeding all the dead spots each year with Scott's Premium Kentucky Bluegrass mix for sun and light shade. Given that these are the first to die that is clearly the lawntype suffering the most. 5. What I struggle the most with is one neighbor who does nothing to his lawn to my observation and leaves his sprinkler on all the time even during heavy rain (he has no rain-gauge) and yet much of his lawn is green compared to mine - thus the implication is that this is a fertilizer issue primarily as we share weather and I assume, grass type? The biggest frustration is to put all this time and effort in and be so misguided all along. This being said, may I kindly request some advice as follows: Clearly I need to adjust my watering as recommended, fertilizer type and schedule and grass when I reseed this fall. If I wish to go organic, can someone point me to a how to site or location that simply lays out the steps as opposed to my reading numerous posts and trying to divine a plan from all the back and forth? As I have a dog and am less than pleased with all the time and effort I have sunk into Scott's products and then had to take a couple of days after each application to keep the dog off the grass, it would be a pleasure to use products that are totally non-toxic, assuming this is true of organic products. Can someone suggest what type of grass-seed I should put down this Fall? Ideally the recommended organic fertilizer treatment, how-to and schedule will suggest when to seed as well. I am deeply indebted to all of you for your advice and assistance. Sincerely, Tom

I also live in Orlando and have a young lemon tree (just about to bloom for the first time - yea!) I have seen katydids on my tree and based on the above pictures think that might be the case. Are the affected lemons higher on the tree or lower? I always see the katydids at the top and the leaves on the top of my tree look terrible.

The picture isnt clear enough to see closely, the brown spots, but i notice they are not concentric, my first impression is Septoria. Time will tell ya, because the spots turn grey, not brown, eventually, the greying is distint, an theres not near as much, if any, yellowin,...as blight exhibits, but in either case, as Carolyn stated, the treatment is the same. Sanitize your plants, by removing any an all symptom-bearing vegetation, then start a fungicidal spray schedule.Keep up your weekly sanitizin.Dont let these diseased foilages die an rest on yo soil, if you think long-term. Destroy them. Aught not be a real problem,if the plant is otherwise healthy. Mulch , as if the Doctor prescribed it...))) GL...)))

Hello Everyone, I was hoping someone verify my diagnosis to my furnace issue. I have a Rheem RGDG-07EAUER furnace. Two things are happening. The first issue is that the furnace shuts down before the desired temperature is reached. This happens intermittently. The furnace runs fine for a day, then cuts out the next during the morning Call for Heat. I've tried two thermostats, but I have yet to verify that the board is receiving the 24v at the time it cuts out. The more persistent problem is that during the initial ignition sequence, the draft fan starts up fine, the ignitor glows, and then the gas valve opens and closes in a fraction of a second. I have verified that the 24v is sent to the valve for only this split second. I do not believe it is a flame sensor issue, as the time it takes to open and close is shorter than the time it takes to normally ignite, so if it was a flame sensor issue, i'd think it would be not working all time, instead of intermittently. I have verified that the valve is recieving the constant 24V when it is working correctly. From what I can tell this problem just seems to be a faulty control board. Are miscellaneous issues like this a typical symptom? I've replaced a board before in another furnace, but the place I purchase from allows no returns, so I'm a little hesitant to drop the $200+ before being sure that will fix the issue.