since my last post I brought the kit.It helped but I still have to use the paste.For your uppers SeaBond works great.For your lowers nothing realy helps.You have to put your food to the back of your mounth and chew.This way your teeth will stay in all day.

I have deep uppers (15") and also had the counter top deepened to correspond. It makes for great counterspace if you have the space for it. I did it to make a full size frig look built in.

I have full dentures top and bottom,and have had them since 1963.My 3rd pregnancy caused something to go wrong with my teeth and when ds was 6 weeks old,they had to pul them all. At that time it cost me 250.00 for both upper and lower,they pulled them on the military base,so no charge for that. About 8 to 10 years ago i finally got a new set,and they cost me 750.00 after the ins pd their part.Those i had to go back and get them re-done,but the 2nd time they got them right. I have never had to use any adhesives,or get them re-lined.I also eat everything,apples,caramels etc with no problems at all. One thing i have to say is that after you get them,if they don't feel right,hurt,you have to take them out to eat etc,go back and keep going back til they get them right. I even sleep with mine in,the only time they come out is when i'm in the shower,and as soon as i get out,back in they go. I even had dr's promise me to put them back in as soon as surgery was over,and they did.DH never sees me without them. Kathi

Until I read stan's and lisa's posts after mine, I hadn't realized that I'd set up the plan almost exactly as my kitchen is laid out. My range and sink/DW are switched, and except for the DR, the adjacent rooms are different, but the traffic patterns are the same--compact work triangle on the L, with storage along the other wall, and an island separating them. As I mentioned before, the bases are pulled out to match the fridge box, but also the cabinets on the storage wall are a little shallower than standard (vintage cabinets originally only 16" deep). It works very well, and I like having the fridge near the DR. My fridge is partly visible from the front door, and I have a door to a mudroom where your door to the deck is located. In my kitchen there is an opening to a flex room where you have the mudroom entry--also very similar to lisa's kitchen. Because, in the mudroom, the electrical panel is on the other side of my fridge wall, I couldn't have the large window I drew in your plan--I don't have an actual window in the kitchen--just borrowed light from the surrounding rooms. With the large window in your plan, you would have plenty of light and a nice view. The appliance placement in either L plan is personal preference--in one, the range and hood are a focal point from the great room, in the other, it's the fridge. Either is fine, IMO--it's a kitchen, and the appliances have to go somewhere. In the original plan, if you keep the fridge on the bottom wall, and the range on the short wall, it makes sense to keep the island in the original orientation, but you will have less than 40" for each aisle, and even with a CD fridge, the door and handle will protrude into the traffic aisle. Plus, it appears that there is seating on two sides, and there isn't enough space in the aisle to have seating on the short side. There is step-back space in the long aisle in front of the fridge, but there would be a pinch-point at the fridge and island corners, which could be alleviated if you moved the island toward the DR a few inches. You would still have a narrower than recommended aisle in front of the DW (if the sink and DW are moved to the top wall--I wouldn't want this plan at all, if the sink isn't moved out of the corner). I have narrow aisles, and they work OK, but I remodeled a kitchen in an older home, and couldn't change the size. I agree with buehl--in a new build, I wouldn't recommend narrow aisles. NKBA recs, illustrated