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Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

Posted by elguero77 (My Page) on
Tue, Nov 18, 08 at 10:05

Hello,

Yesterday, I opened my garage door after work, and when I tried closing I can only hear a relay click but my garage door does not move an inch.

The safety sensors are good and aligned.

I installed the plastic gears a year ago, so I know all the parts a well installed (i.e. interrupt cup on motor shaft).

My green indicator light blinks 5 times, pauses, blinks 5 times, and repeats same pattern.

Could the RPM sensor be bad?

From what I have read on the forum, when the RPM sensor is bad the garage door moves down atleast a few inches and then moves back up. But, my garage door does not move at all. I only hear the relay click.

Could my receiver logic board be bad?

Maybe I should play around with the Interruptor cup and rotate it such that I can get my garage door to atleast move down a few inches. In other words, how can I test if the issues is really my RPM sensor?

Thanks,
Santos


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

I forgot to mentioned. I have a 139.539##SRT craftsman model.

I immediately opened up the garage unit when it failed to close and all looks good inside. Nothing smelled liked burnt electronics (I would recognize that smell). I manually moved the shaft on the motor as if it was moving in the direction to close my garage door. While moving the shaft, I had the garage door disconnected from the rail to release some load. I managed to move the gears manually so that the slider on the rail moved about 1 foot to the closing direction. I clicked my remote twice and the garage door moved back to the open position. So, the motor is good and my receiver board apparently was able to process my remotes signal.

But, again, when I press my remote again to move the opener in the closing direction, nothing moves. I only hear the relay click.

~Santos


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

Is the trolley running into the bolt just in front of the opener? If so you need to remove the bolt and then run the opener until the door closes. Then turn the 'up limit' control about 3 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. The up limit control is found on the side of the motor unit and it will take a small screwdriver to adjust. Be sure to replace the bolt.


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

"Is the trolley running into the bolt just in front of the opener?"

No, the trolley does not run into the bolt just in front of the opener. The trolley stops about 6 inches or more before it hits the bolt in front of the opener. The trolley stops because the "up limit" is reached.

But, I understand your point. I will check to see if anything else is in the way. But, I doubt it. Door opens smoothly manually. Chain looks perfect.

Any more suggestions?

~Santos


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close (2)

Also... some more info.

The garage door moved in the closing direction about 6 to 12 inches when I initially tried to close it.

So, it's not like the garage door was stuck on my first attempt to close it. On my first attempt to close it, the garage door started going down and then automatically moved back to the fully open position.

And, all attempts to close the garage door after my intial attempt results in a relay click. The garage door does not move at all in the close direction.

~Santos


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

Baffling. I cannot think of another thing except the RPM board but as you know it usually starts down and then reverses. The only way to check it is to replace it. Make sure the the plug to it is on securely.


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

Here is some more information on experimenting:

First experiment:
I switched the wires connected to the UP limit and DOWN limit connectors on the limit switch assembly. I was hoping to fool the RPM sensor or the receiver logic board into thinking the garage door was closed (but, actually fully open, 6 inches before stop bolt) and have the opener actually move the garage door in the closing position. But, this did NOT work. Instead, the garage door moved towards the open direction until it hit the BOLT on the rail and the motor hummed a little bit. I switched the limit wires back to their original position.

Next experiment: I manually turned the motor shaft to move the trolly in the closing direction. I moved the trolly all the way to the fully close position and I connected the garage door to the trolly. So, now the garage door is completely closed. I pressed the garage opener button and the garage door starts moving in the opening direction. I let the door open about two feet and I press the remote button again and the garage door stops immediately. I press the remote button again (in normal operation the garage door would start closing) and I hear a relay click and two seconds later the garage door starts moving in the opening direction. The pattern repeats itself until the garage door reaches its UP limit. After that, I just hear the relay click when I press the remote button.

So, can we pinpoint the issue with the additional information? ;-)

What are the signals going to/from the RPM sensor to the receiver logic board? There is another wire going from the RPM sensor to the limit switch assembly. If I had some more information on the what each wire means, maybe I can pinpoint which component is bad.

How about I switch the wires on the motor? Will that help pinpoint the bad component?

Thanks,
Santos


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

More and more it sounds like you have a bad logic board.


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

Problem is fixed. The problem was the receiver logic board. I tested the motor by directly applying current to it and the garage door closed and opened fine. So, I knew the logic board was not supply the required current to the blue wire on the motor.

I took off the logic board and inspected the soldering points. I noticed a disconnected solder joint and resoldered. My garage door is now working great!!!

Thanks,
Santos


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

I just post an issue that is similar to this. See http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/garages/msg120544585326.html "Craftsman Garage Opener Clicks only and LED blinking 5 times". I have not experimented with the motor but it looks perfect without anything loose or burnt. The logic board looks tight without removing it and all connections were tight. Santos, I guess I can trace some of your steps and verify the motor is good.


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

To verify the motor is good. I try to rotate the gear manually to back the trolley a few inches. I could not move the gear. It was stopped at the upper limit so I make the upper limit higher to allow the motor to move the trolley in the upper range. I plug back in the power and click the open/close remote button and same as before: clicks, LED starts to blink, motor does not turn.

I put a digital meter to measure the AC on the relay of the motor side (a white wire and a black wire). As soon as I plug back in the power, it is reading 120 V AC. Hitting the open/close remote button does not change the reading. That means the motor has power regardless of me hitting the open/close button?! I am puzzled.

The only other wire to the motor is a red wire which connects to the logic board connector. Anyone know anything about that wire.

I don't know what conclusion to draw. Bad motor or bad logic board. Anyone has a good suggestion to tell which is which? Thanks.


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RE: Garage opener relay clicks but does not close

The motor has three wires. White, Red, and Blue. Disconnect power to the garage door openor to avoid getting electricuted and also to avoid burning your logic board. U will have to connect direct power again once u disconnect what i mention below. And, just follow what u know about electric technician fundamentals. If you don't know much about fundamentals of electric tech, then have someone that does do the job.

Disconnect the logic board completely from the garage door openor assembly to avoid burning it. Disconnect the blue and red motor wires from the capacitor. Discharge the capacitor using a screwdriver.

If you want to move the garage door down, connect only the blue wire to direct power. If you want to move the door up, connect only the red wire directly to power. This way you can verify if your motor is good or bad. If your motor moves both way, then ur motor is good and u have to inspect your logic board. Mine turned out to be a bad solder point.


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