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Sears Garage Opener 139.53716 Help Don, please

Posted by lukshen (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 20, 07 at 21:21

Don, thanks for the responses, sorry its taken so long to get back to you. The 2 wires, split into 4 go from the garage door motor to a door opener button outside the door to the house and to the part I am trying to replace (yes I bought a new one),the button before you go out of the garage. There are additional plug in wires that go to the outside keypad, they are not the problem.Yes I have replaced the 9 volt.This is an old unit, I am thinking of replacing the entire garage door system. I can't attach the 4 wires to the 3 screws on the back of the new part!


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Sears Garage Opener 139.53716 Help Don, please

For the life of me I can't figure out what that new part is. I wish I could see it. If the wires are color coded take the white one and the white with red stripe and touch them together to see if the opener runs. If this doesn't work try touching any combination of 2 wires to see if you can get the opener to run. There isn't enough electricity there to hurt you. If this works then you can hook those 2 wires to the button outside the door. Let me know.


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RE: Sears Garage Opener 139.53716 Help Don, please

I'm experiencing the same door problems: Won't close with remote because of seudo obstruction. the door does close with wall switch held. I have placed the sensors next to each other to no avail. I do get 6V between term. 2 & 3. I also get 4 flashes on the indicator light next to the 'learn' button. Sensors? Yes, the sensor light is green.

Thanks Jack


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RE: Sears Garage Opener 139.53716 Help Don, please

According to the manufacturer the LED flashing code 4 is "sensors misaligned."


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RE: Sears Garage Opener 139.53716 Help Don, please

Hi Don,
We are trying to attach 4 wires to 3 screws on that part we're trying to fix. We've tried so many combinations that we wrote them down to keep track. Sometimes nothing happens, sometimes the "circuit" board that we're trying to connect these wires to gets hot and the motor makes a strange sound. The door opens perfectly well with the remotes and button by the door to the house. It's this button by the garage door itself that connects to the keypad that's giving us the problem. What a pain, a garage door repairman came by and said because the unit is 20 years old, we should just replace it to the tune of $500.
We're still willing to keep trying, if you are.


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RE: Sears Garage Opener 139.53716 Help Don, please

I am still totally confused as to what we are working on. I'm sorry I will be unable to help you. I don't ever remember a Sears keypad with a separate button.


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