The LED is flashing the code for "RPM sensor or motor overload." The RPM sensor is a small printed circuit board just in front of the motor. The motor overload can be caused by operating the opener to much in a given period and overheating the motor. Usually a 15 minute rest will give it time to automatically reset the thermal overload. Your door sensors are not the problem and pressing that button next to the light can cause your remotes to quit working. Don't do that.

Hello, after digging around on the web a lot more I discovered that the number I was using was the part no. for the circuit board. Then I was able to find a manual and download it. It didn't say what the blinking lights mean. But it did echo your warning to keep my hands off of the button. I unplugged the opener for a couple hours and then plugged it back in. The lights didn't come on when I did this. I thought they might come on for 4 1/2 minutes as the manual suggested. No Luck there. We have been having a heat wave, up in the 90's. But that is nothing unusual here in Florida. Are there any tests I can do to determine if the RPM sensor circuit board is bad? Or if the motor is burnt out? Is there a manual reset to use if all else fails? Thanks for the advice.

There isn't a reset button and unfortunately the only check of the RPM sensor board is to replace it. The motor hardly ever goes bad. The part number for the RPM sensor board is 41C4398A and sells for around $18.00. You should be able to get one at any good door service company. All your symptoms point to the trolley being jammed against the bolt but I know you checked that.

Hello again. I took the cover off the unit and am able to turn the interrupter cap assembly and the drive gearwheel turns freely. I found the little circuit board on-line. It comes with the plastic mounting piece and the interrupter cup. Of course, I can also get a used circuit board for $5 (plus s/h). I figured I should spring for a new one. Do I have to replace the board holder and the black cap or can I just replace the little board?
With the unit hanging off the ceiling it looks like quite a job to take anything apart that isn't necessary. Milton

I would replace it all just to make sure.

Hello, Taking the interrupter cup off was easy, it just pulled off. I had removed the old circuit board by sliding it out of it's holder. When I got the new one, I pried the holder off as instructed, That damages the little prongs that hold it in place. I replaced the circuit board and holder and slid the new cup on. It still doesn't work. The little light flashes 5 times and then rests, then repeats. Do you have any more thoughts about what I can try? Thank you.
Milton

It is beginning to point at the motor but that is very expensive. Take a close look at the limit switch assembly. It is pretty simple the way it works. Make sure the up contacts are making. The contact the yellow wire is connected to should be making with the center contact with the gray wire. If this fails you are going to need a technician. Everything still points to the trolley being jammed but I know you have checked that.

Hello, I checked it out. Looks like it was the motor. So I bit the bullet and put in a new one. The cost of a technician was way too much. So I got one with a 10 year warrantee. After I installed it I noticed how smooth the operation was. The last one was really jerky. That may have done in the motor. And they were on sale! If you know anyone who needs a little circuit board (or two) let me know. And tell them not to remove the little plastic carrier that the board fits on. Removing it will destroy it. You can remove the board by prying the small tabs on either end and just removing the board. Really easy. I will send the board to anyone for free. No sense it going to waste ( I seem to have two of them). Thanks for all the good advice.
Milton